The TE450 starts great, idles fine, but as it gets hotter, it starts to idle lower, which was an even worse symptom when the main gear was off by one tooth. This time, I'm pretty sure it's the exhaust cam, I originally timed it with the dimples on the gears (the Defeckel method), then I saw the exhaust was in a strange position compared to the intake, so I went to the 1 tooth different position that I had it in back with the 1.1mm head gasket. I will be going back in to re-do to the dimple specs. Plus, my fan is not working so I'll need to check the wiring for that. Always something with this bike, just like a woman.....
I went back to the OEM dimple timing on the exhaust cam and I am back to using the manual comp release to get over the initial compression stroke but the ADC works fine after that, which is what I had been doing for the last 10,000 miles anyway, not a big deal, as long as it e-starts, I'm happy. The OEM timing also took a little off the top end performance that I had with the exhaust cam off-timed by one tooth, damn, that front end was coming up in 1st and 2nd gear, just from when the bike hit the power band, no clutch, no tug, just whoosh. Now with the timing at OEM, it's torquey-er and doesn't have the high end hit. The idle also stays completely consistent at water temp 230F, which is where my fan comes on with this temp sensor, I was looking for it to come on at 220F, my bad, fan works fine.
Retiming the exhaust cam only took 50 minutes, I have streamlined the process of getting into the cam chest and working in there, done it way too many times. First thing, I used to drain the tank into a can since it would just leak out of the fuel pump elbow, now I just tip it and prop it up slanted, since my cap vent is sealed.
I don't disconnect the comp release cable, I can work the cam cover around it using the slot for the spark plug.
Cam caps 3 and 4, for the intake cam, don't have to be removed completely, I just loosen the bolts on cam cap 3 and raise it enough to get the oil tube out (for removing the exhaust cam)
I have several 5mm allens, sawed off, cut-down, and I think this is a 5mm allen hammered into a 3/16 socket, 1/4" drive, I still need to shorten it to fit the cam cap bolt under the fan and the one under the left rad hose.
Here's the one-tooth-off cam timing that I would actually use if I was flat-tracking or racing the bike, great power.
Here's what the cams look like with OEM, Dfeckel, dimple timing, the cams just look like a really different position.