EJK

[mag00]

I got my reflashed (to tr650) Lexx back. It was for a Raptor 700 and now it is a DIY unit. (generic label) I spoke with Dillon about the issue of cutting out, and he said that the reflash is almost identical to the BMW 650 code and the adjusting should remedy the issues.

I'll get mine installed eventually, not a top priority for me, as my bike runs great without it. I'm adding it because I have it and want to see how much power can be gained. This will then get installed as a switchable feature, like the dual mapping of other bikes.

As far as adaptions prior to or after installation affecting the EJK, that is all fiction. A bad tps or temp or other sensor could affect your EJK adjustment, and may have been the issue BEFORE you even installed the EJK to fix the problem.

Also, just because you remove the adaptions, doesn't mean every bike will run the same. Altitude, Temp, mods to engine (pod mod, pipes, baffles, plugs, cannister, fuel grades) are no longer compensated for with the closed loop operation of the ecu, so now you will have to tune every bike individually, for optimum performance.

 

[rww]

OK, so I am final for the temps outside now. I may have to go leaner later. 4.5-5-.5-.5-8-.5 I have found that the red needs to be near or at the bottom setting to run right. It pulls strong with the red fuel lower. If you turn the transition fuel on just a little (7.5) it all goes south. Bike ran super this am on the way to work about 28 degrees outside.

 

[Nick780]

Alright, two days and no stumbles. Feels pretty good...
Right now I'm at 4.5-4-.5-.5-6-.5 and I'm liking it. Still harsher than I would like on the engine braking but there's no popping either. I'm going to slowly bring down the yellow/blue and see how far I can take it.

 

[wferrari]

This will then get installed as a switchable feature, like the dual mapping of other bikes.

That's a cool idea. You would need to relay the EJK ground and reverse relay the O2 sensor connection in order to fully achieve it.

I'm going to slowly bring down the yellow/blue and see how far I can take it.

I went that way, and, if anything, engine breaking got even harsher, plus I got some "hesitations", just like before the stumbles.

4.5-5-.5-.5-8-.5

I run these exact settings (except 4.5 for yellow) by mistake, as I didn't notice the 1.5 red setting in your previous post. You're right, the bike runs fine, as the "red" mixture is already rich enough

 

[Nick780]

I'm giving up...

I pulled the (TR650-flashed) EJK, reset the TPS and the bike feels way better than that goofy program. I'll be mailing it back and asking for the GS650 program that worked great without any of these weird hiccups.

 

[wferrari]

I'm giving up...

I was very close to do the same, but I found my karma with the current unit, so I don't feel the need revert back to the 650gs settings. As pointed out by rww, the problem is with the yellow, but more precisely is with the sensitivity of the yellow settings, and I think it's mainly due to a bias caused by the 650gs unit. A yellow setting of 4 in the 650gs unit is definitely not the same as a 4 in the tr650 one. At 2.5 yellow I'm already getting performances superior to the 650gs counterpart at 4.5, so I suspect that the problem in the end is over-enrichment, and it makes sense, as that's basically the only thing the EJK can do. Right now I'm running at 4.5-2.5-.5-.5-6-.5, and I like the way the bike behaves. I intend to lower the yellow to 2 and the blue/yellow to 5 and see how it goes. If I'm still getting some hesitations, I will adjust accordingly.

 

[rww]

I was very close to do the same, but I found my karma with the current unit, so I don't feel the need revert back to the 650gs settings. As pointed out by rww, the problem is with the yellow, but more precisely is with the sensitivity of the yellow settings, and I think it's mainly due to a bias caused by the 650gs unit. A yellow setting of 4 in the 650gs unit is definitely not the same as a 4 in the tr650 one. At 2.5 yellow I'm already getting performances superior to the 650gs counterpart at 4.5, so I suspect that the problem in the end is over-enrichment, and it makes sense, as that's basically the only thing the EJK can do. Right now I'm running at 4.5-2.5-.5-.5-6-.5, and I like the way the bike behaves. I intend to lower the yellow to 2 and the blue/yellow to 5 and see how it goes. If I'm still getting some hesitations, I will adjust accordingly.

I agree 100%. I lowered the Yellow to 3 this am and it ran great. I am still a little concerned of opening up the the yellow/blue but as soon as I have a Go To point I will give it a shot.

 

[Craig Hashey]

I was very close to do the same, but I found my karma with the current unit, so I don't feel the need revert back to the 650gs settings. As pointed out by rww, the problem is with the yellow, but more precisely is with the sensitivity of the yellow settings, and I think it's mainly due to a bias caused by the 650gs unit. A yellow setting of 4 in the 650gs unit is definitely not the same as a 4 in the tr650 one. At 2.5 yellow I'm already getting performances superior to the 650gs counterpart at 4.5, so I suspect that the problem in the end is over-enrichment, and it makes sense, as that's basically the only thing the EJK can do. Right now I'm running at 4.5-2.5-.5-.5-6-.5, and I like the way the bike behaves. I intend to lower the yellow to 2 and the blue/yellow to 5 and see how it goes. If I'm still getting some hesitations, I will adjust accordingly.

Sorry I haven't been on more discussing this. Work has had me beyond busy for the last few months.
The problem is definitely in yellow mode. I had the unit up on the tank for about 3 months watching it. The problem happens when I accelerate then let off the throttle abruptly. Sometimes it will happen if I pull in the clutch and rev the engine. I will make an adjustment and all will seem well for a couple of days and just when I start to feel comfortable... When I get the stumble I usually will pull in the clutch and let the bike idle until the controller goes back into green mode then I resume riding as usual. It doesn't seem to me like the controller ever fully recovers from this until it is shut off and restarted. I've notice that after I get a stumble episode that at lower RPMs like riding in traffic the bike runs really rough, pops and coughs and I will still smell the fuel when I get off the bike when I reach my destination. Over the last three days I have gone out of my way to make sure that I don't do anything to cause the stumble and the bike has performed like a champ. No fuel smell, no rough running and my fuel mileage is noticeably better.
I am going to try the settings you have posted here and try them on my way home this afternoon. I'll let you know how it goes.

 

[Roger 04 RT]

Here is an explanation of what is going on withe the primary (green, yellow, red) settings: http://www.bikeboy.org/staintunetuningtechlusion.html

And from that article a chart of what he measured. The later ejk unit allows the changeover point from green to yellow to red to be moved.

I also see that Dobeck rents a Wideband O2 sensor to allow the user to measure what effect they are creating.

 

[Roger 04 RT]

Wideband O2 Rental: http://www.dobeckperformance.com/dobeck-SAFR-tool.asp. This does some of what an LC-2 can do but can't be used for control like the LC-2 and AF-XIED.

Here is what they say:


SAFR Diagnostic Tool


The days of Dyno dependency are over. AFR data viewing, in real driving situations, is the new standard. Troubleshoot in minutes with the SAFR, a plug and play diagnostic tool from Dobeck Performance.

Easily installed on most motorcycles, ATVs and UTVs the SAFR provides a simple analog gauge with a wideband O2 system that displays the vehicle's air / fuel ratio (AFR) values and allows riders to fully understand how their vehicle is running. The SAFR is a diagnostic tool which ensures the vehicle is running at optimum levels on the street or in the dirt. It is not intended to be a permanent installation. The unit is fully compatible with all vehicles.

The SAFR (Standalone Air/Fuel Ratio) tool was developed to address the need to quickly understand the state of tune on a vehicle without the hassle of welding in an O2 bung or splicing in wires to power the system. Easily installed on most motorcycles, ATVs and UTVs, the SAFR provides a simple analog gauge with a wideband O2 system that displays the vehicle's air/fuel ratio (AFR) values. The AFR readings allow a user to make sure a vehicle is running at optimum levels on the street or in the dirt. The SAFR is not intended to be a permanent installation. The unit is fully compatible with all vehicles. The SAFR works on carbureted or fuel injected vehicles. The diagnostic tool also works on 2 stroke or 4 stroke engines.
NO WELDING REQUIRED
PLUG AND PLAY POWER
RENT OR PURCHASE
ANALOG NEEDLE DISPLAY
WIDEBAND O2 SYSTEM
NO FREE AIR CALIBRATION
TEMPORARY INSTALLATION
COMPATIBLE FOR ALL FUEL TYPES
1-YEAR WARRANTY

View Complete Information at www.SAFRtool.com

 

[Craig Hashey]

Sorry I haven't been on more discussing this. Work has had me beyond busy for the last few months.
The problem is definitely in yellow mode. I had the unit up on the tank for about 3 months watching it. The problem happens when I accelerate then let off the throttle abruptly. Sometimes it will happen if I pull in the clutch and rev the engine. I will make an adjustment and all will seem well for a couple of days and just when I start to feel comfortable... When I get the stumble I usually will pull in the clutch and let the bike idle until the controller goes back into green mode then I resume riding as usual. It doesn't seem to me like the controller ever fully recovers from this until it is shut off and restarted. I've notice that after I get a stumble episode that at lower RPMs like riding in traffic the bike runs really rough, pops and coughs and I will still smell the fuel when I get off the bike when I reach my destination. Over the last three days I have gone out of my way to make sure that I don't do anything to cause the stumble and the bike has performed like a champ. No fuel smell, no rough running and my fuel mileage is noticeably better.
I am going to try the settings you have posted here and try them on my way home this afternoon. I'll let you know how it goes.

Well that wasn't the ticket. Although the bike runs great in these settings and pulls like a freight train all the way through, on four occasions on the way to work this morning after accelerating with just the slightest backing off of the throttle it was like I had let go of the throttle all together. Almost like the engine had shut off but it didn't and would come back to life when you twisted it up again.Was strange. I've never experienced that one before. I am stumped.

 

[Nick780]

Well that wasn't the ticket. Although the bike runs great in these settings and pulls like a freight train all the way through, on four occasions on the way to work this morning after accelerating with just the slightest backing off of the throttle it was like I had let go of the throttle all together. Almost like the engine had shut off but it didn't and would come back to life when you twisted it up again.Was strange. I've never experienced that one before. I am stumped.

I still get the cutout on that setting too.
Which is why I'm leaning towards returning the unit. It can feel great, but there's still this cutout the pops up it's not worth it.

 

[Roger 04 RT]

When I tested the EJK on my bike I got cutouts too. Because I've boosted my fuel pressure 20% (adding 10% to fueling); based on the cutouts occurring above 4000 rpm and when I twisted the throttle quickly (which causes my ecu to add fuel); and knowing that the EJK adds 8-12% to fueling normally, I believe that the cutouts were due to overfueling. Also you mentioned that the bike pulls strongly at times. You might try further reducing the settings.

 

[rww]

I think that with the o2 sensor gone the bike goes to a start up program that's is a lot richer than the open loop operation. I have reached the point where the cut out is almost gone and does not show up very often. Lowering the yellow fuel seems to make the bike run better. Cold ride off on start up can be done but it just does not like it no mater what the bike has plugged into it. When I warm it up a little, Start the bike go back in and put on helmet and gloves' it runs fine. Lean is the direction to go with the EJK. Very little extra fuel is needed to get it to run nice. Warmer weather will most likely remove the lean stumble with my current settings, and that's a guess. I am going to keep working the yellow fuel down with the transition point up at 8,and I have a stock airbox with foam filter and decated pipes.

 

[V8Astro]

I got my TR650 specific EJK back yesterday. I went for a ride with the settings right out of the box. It ran just fine with nobut felt a litte rich in the mid range. I checked the setting and found they were all off. Not anywhere close to the base settings shown on the website. After resetting it to the specs shown it ran terrible! I had all the chugging and stalling that everyone else experienced.

To make a long story short...if you have this problem set your green/blue to 1.5 and report back. I set mine to 1.5 and the cut-outs and chugging went away. My guess is that a setting of green/blue is over-fueling during decel and loading up the engine.

 

[rww]

I got my TR650 specific EJK back yesterday. I went for a ride with the settings right out of the box. It ran just fine with nobut felt a litte rich in the mid range. I checked the setting and found they were all off. Not anywhere close to the base settings shown on the website. After resetting it to the specs shown it ran terrible! I had all the chugging and stalling that everyone else experienced.

To make a long story short...if you have this problem set your green/blue to 1.5 and report back. I set mine to 1.5 and the cut-outs and chugging went away. My guess is that a setting of green/blue is over-fueling during decel and loading up the engine.

What are the rest of the settings .....Per EJK..?

 

[V8Astro]

Nope. That didnt work. I'm haven't been able to consistantly reproduce the problem. Seems like it just pops up at times. Very annoying. I tried many settings and none of them eliminated the problem. I sent Dillon at Dobeck Performance an email. If i vet this resolved I'll post back.

Has anyome else figured out whats going on?

 

[rww]

The problem is the ECU not the EJK I have the best luck with a warm up before I ride....its settles down the ECU so I am running 4.5-3-.5-.5-8-.5 The bike is getting to much fuel in Y/B so I am walking it down. If you warm it up so 3 bars are showing with the mods and setting I have it will run pretty good...much smoother than stock It will still freak on occasion but a twist or drop of the throttle will get past it quickly. I am slowly working my way past the flat spot and will keep posting as I go...Its been raining for a few days so I won't be riding until Wednesday. When it does bog out now I can barley feel it. New plugs make a big difference by the way.

Rod

 

[Nick780]

Well, it may be too early to tell, but after reading V8Astro's post I wanted to try everything at 0.5.
Surprisingly, it's the best feeling I've had from the EJK so far. I'll keep riding and report back.

 

[Roger 04 RT]

If someone could rent the Dobeck SAFR tool you could measure what these settings were doing to your bike. It would take a lot of the guesswork out.