• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Electrex World SEM stator replacement for 510 TE

PEZBerq

PEZBerq

Husqvarna
AA Class
Has anyone replaced their SEM ignition on a 84 through 88 510 TE four stroke with an Electrex World ST5051L stator? Their website is www.electrexworld.co.uk. To mount it I assume will need to reuse the mount plate of the original SEM by drilling out the attachment rivets and riveting or bolting to the electrex world stator. The website photo is generic and shows the mount plate for "normal" stator mounting on the crankcase - which is wrong for the TE four strokes.

The 510 TE uses the stator mounted to the ignition cover with the flywheel mounted in reverse to the 2 strokes. This means the flywheel is spinning in the opposite direction around the stator than on a 2 stroke. I am not sure if this makes a difference or not.

Anyone tried this swap?

View attachment 33948 image.jpg View attachment 33950 image.jpgimage.jpg
 
I have 2 of these systems to try, but we have not had the chance to use them yet.
I have heard that they make starting a lot easier too.
Go - on be our guinea pig and try it!!!

Please let me / us know what you discover.

Andy Elliott
 
Just from on here reading switching out to sem ignitions from applications where the unit is on the other side of the bike doesn't work out. That would go to the spinning the other way part of the discussion.

I have had a 1988 te510 since 1997 and have never done anything under that cover. Maybe never even took it off even though I have had the engine out worked on the rear mounting and changed out the cam chain a few times. Mine starts wonderfully even if it sits for a year or close to that. Hot starting has been frustrating though that isn't probably ignition related. Maybe a fancy new ignition would keep the backfiring and blowing the carb off from happening or give some advantage as to advance curve.
 
PEZBerq said:
Has anyone replaced their SEM ignition on a 84 through 88 510 TE four stroke with an Electrex World ST5051L stator? Their website is www.electrexworld.co.uk. To mount it I assume will need to reuse the mount plate of the original SEM by drilling out the attachment rivets and riveting or bolting to the electrex world stator. The website photo is generic and shows the mount plate for "normal" stator mounting on the crankcase - which is wrong for the TE four strokes.

The 510 TE uses the stator mounted to the ignition cover with the flywheel mounted in reverse to the 2 strokes. This means the flywheel is spinning in the opposite direction around the stator than on a 2 stroke. I am not sure if this makes a difference or not.

Anyone tried this swap?

View attachment 33948 View attachment 33949 View attachment 33950 View attachment 33951 View attachment 33952
Click to expand...
Don't have tried an Electrex.
I have a 610 ducati ignition on one of my 510.
Works fine.
 
Michel Dufayard said:
Don't have tried an Electrex.
I have a 610 ducati ignition on one of my 510.
Works fine.
Click to expand...
Michel what model and year exactly is your Ducati ignition? Does it mount like the 510 TE? Did you replace just the stator or the whole system - stator, CDI, HT coil, flywheel? Thanks
 
Don't the later KTM's use a SEM that looks the same but runs backwards [ fitted to left hand side ] if so then they would work , maybe ?

They often come up on Ebay.
 
PEZBerq said:
Michel what model and year exactly is your Ducati ignition? Does it mount like the 510 TE? Did you replace just the stator or the whole system - stator, CDI, HT coil, flywheel? Thanks
Click to expand...
The 610 TE Ducati ignition is 95+.
You can mount it easely on 510.
You need the black coil ignition (not the blue one) 2000+ which allow not to keep all
the electric devices which are heavy and big on 610 95-99.
But you need a normal cranckshaft (89+ from memory), not the one with reversed ignition (84-88).

HPIM4888.JPG

Bobine Ducati.JPG
 
Nice mod Michel. Would need to check the 87 TE crank stub to see if the taper would work with that flywheel and if the ignition would mount to the cases. The TC uses that style set up so perhaps it is easy to modify the TE. I will investigate.

Andy, did you check your Electrex ignitions. I got an email from Electrex saying they only had the one mount plate style so their ST 5051L is not a direct bolt on replacement and will need modifying to work on a TE using a ignition cover mounted stator. They confirm it will work with the direction of rotation of the TE motor when mounted in the cover so that's good. Just waiting for them to now confirm the bolt holes for their stator will match the SEM mount plate holes and then I will go ahead. See photo below for the mount hole comparison between bolted and riveted stators. They seem identical so hopefully the Electrex will be a good swap.

As another point of interest my SEM has a code B2 on the stator. The B May be a D as it's quite faint but it seems to be a model designation for this 510 TE stator. I have another SEM with T1 on it (don't know what it's off but not a TE that's for sure) so it seems they use an alpha number code like this. For what it's worth!
image.jpgimage.jpg
 
Thanks Michel, I'm just a little worried about buying used off Ebay without some kind of promise? Husky dealer here used to use late model 4 stroke KTM stators & machine backing plate to fit screws. Not to sure crank rotation should matter, ignitions that use magnets on rotor are triggered off magnet field turning on Hall Effect transistor. That is all the stator does is generate some current then complete the circuit to the coil.Some other componet would have to effect ignition advance, thus the direction? Modern bikes call them ignition modules because they get feed back from TPS, O2 sensor, etc. so direction & throttle opening are very important to modify advance. Don't mean to muddle up subject, sorry, just wondering what would work best. I've got 3 air cooled 510s. All have bad ignitions! I've also got a mold of the CH magnesium ignition covers & was thinking about making some out of Carbon Fiber if there was enough intrest. They are a real pain to make so wouldn't be cheap. Craig Hanson of Hanson Racing has a fix for the hard starting issues but again isn't cheap, oh well sure beat kicking during a long ride!
 
pvmx510tc said:
Thanks Michel, I'm just a little worried about buying used off Ebay without some kind of promise? Husky dealer here used to use late model 4 stroke KTM stators & machine backing plate to fit screws. Not to sure crank rotation should matter, ignitions that use magnets on rotor are triggered off magnet field turning on Hall Effect transistor. That is all the stator does is generate some current then complete the circuit to the coil.Some other componet would have to effect ignition advance, thus the direction? Modern bikes call them ignition modules because they get feed back from TPS, O2 sensor, etc. so direction & throttle opening are very important to modify advance. Don't mean to muddle up subject, sorry, just wondering what would work best. I've got 3 air cooled 510s. All have bad ignitions! I've also got a mold of the CH magnesium ignition covers & was thinking about making some out of Carbon Fiber if there was enough intrest. They are a real pain to make so wouldn't be cheap. Craig Hanson of Hanson Racing has a fix for the hard starting issues but again isn't cheap, oh well sure beat kicking during a long ride!
Click to expand...

Don't they generate some current , store it in a capacitor then the exciter triggers a SCR and dumps the stored current into a coil , creating a spark ?
If you spun it backwards then surely the trigger point would be after TDC .
This has been talked about way back on this forum , somewhere.

Edit. 28/11/13
Have been looking on a KTM forum and the 95/97 KTM's use the same setup.
They also have problems with it.
 
dukkman said:
Don't they generate some current , store it in a capacitor then the exciter triggers a SCR and dumps the stored current into a coil , creating a spark ?
If you spun it backwards then surely the trigger point would be after TDC .
This has been talked about way back on this forum , somewhere.

Edit. 28/11/13
Have been looking on a KTM forum and the 95/97 KTM's use the same setup.
They also have problems with it.
Click to expand...

I'm not really sure, more than likely, just hoping someone would have taken one apart to say for sure. I'm looking for a chemical that will dissolve the plastic so I can find out. We've used SCRs for years in the elevator industry to initate slowdowns, count positions & leveling. Very reliable solid state device. I think your right, but without getting too technical, the cap. wouldn't be nessary as the magnetic field in the rotor magnet is enough to trigger on the SCR. They're called Hall Effect Transtitors, after the inventor Mr. Hall! The SCR is just a switch & it's emitter/collector junction are the contacts (N.O.). So, the flywheel/rotor's magnet induces a field in the SCR triggers on the base of the SCR, it turns on & provides a current to the coil that then steps up the current/voltage to the spark plug. Rotation shouldn't matter as SCRs trigger on very quickly(I've had to check them on an O scope), but if the ignition has a built in advance like a modern ignition, then the advance would be backwards. TDC is TDC & shouldn't matter. Sorry for the tech. explantaion, I'm just trying to rebuild the old stators as I've got a few bad ones. Anyone that knows of a chemical to dissolve or soften the plastic, I'd love the help!So far Google search turned up Dynasolve 185 as a likely canditate, but as with all good things, it's Expensive!
 
I found this guy in Holland who repairs SEM ignitions:
You can send me your SEM ignition and when I remanufactured it I will send it back after payment is received.
You can reach me on my cell
Dirk Vos cell phone +31 644 266602
 
Sem hospital on this forum says he can fix them tho I haven't tried his work.
Steve Hardaker at Bradford Ignitions is recommended by HVA Factory's Andy.
I have had a stator rewound by Steve and he cocked it up.
Told me if I thought it was wrong to send it back [ half a world away ] and he would look at it.
 
Michel Dufayard said:
Don't have tried an Electrex.
I have a 610 ducati ignition on one of my 510.
Works fine.
Click to expand...
I have two Electrex world replacement ignitions (SEM) on my 430 Huskys and they have been great for the last two years. Stronger spark and easier starting are definite improvements over the old units. For what it costs to have an old system repaired its not worth it,just bite the bullet and pay the extra for a vastly improved new unit.
My own 510 also has the later Ducati ignition on it and this too has been a massive improvement on the original SEM, it's a 1986 air cooled top end, 1989 water cooled cases, crank and gearbox with the ignition of a 1997 610 motor, all were very easily interchangeable. The starting on my 510 now is brilliant. I got it out of the garage today where it has stood since September and it started first kick!
My advice would be, don't mess about with a 30 year old system, just replace it with new and enjoy riding your bike again.
 
Great feedback autopilot. I believe the 89 510 uses the normal flywheel arrangement unlike the back to front flywheel system of the earlier 510 TE models?. The issue I would like confirming is if the Electrex 5051L has the correct bore to allow it to fit over the flywheel retaining nut. This SEM has a very large bore and does not use the screw attachment method to the mount plate. It uses a rivet system from the back of the stator. The flywheel nut is 31mm dia and will interfere the SEM screws if that style was used. I note the photo of the Electrex 5051L seems to have the bore machined with the mount screws installed as the heads have been machined off partially. I was hoping someone would say "Yes I have one fitted to my bike that runs the reverse flywheel and it is fits fine and works great!"
 
I can now report that I have fitted an Electrix World ST5051L stator and a HPI CD5004 CDI and coil to my 87 Husky 510 replacing the inverted SEM ignition. It was a pain to instal as the mounting plate the stator comes with does not fit the ignition cover. It is designed for the non inverted ignitions. So despite what the Electrix World website says it is not a direct swap. I asked several times before I purchased it for both Electrix World in the UK and Horse Power Ignition in Belgium to confirm it would fit. Electrix World never bothered to respond and HPI said it would work OK. Turns out it works OK but need modifying as below.

1) spot the problem with the mount

image.jpg

2) You need to unscrew the stator from the mount plate. This is not simple as the M4 screws are quite tight. I used pliers to turn the head of the screw. Also need to cut some insulating epoxy away from one of the screw heads. It was quite tight to pull off the mount plate as there was some adhesive on mine. Be careful to apply force by putting your fingers under the lower lighting coil and prying the stator off the plate. A tap with a plastic hammer to the mount plate may help. Also be aware the upper ignition coils may come away from the lower lighting coil - they are separate items that are clamped together by the mounting screws and some glue.

image.jpg

3) You need to remove your old SEM stator from its mount plate. Drill out the riveted ends

4) Use 40mm long M4 screws and nuts to bolt the stator onto the old SEM mounting plate. It bolts through the holes where the rivets were. It's a perfect fit. Note you need to file the screw heads so they do not stick out into the bore of the stator. See the second photo.

image.jpg

image.jpg


5) Bolt the stator to the ignition cover. I removed the white zip tie you see in the photo above that was used to tie the wires together at the base of the stator as it was putting force on the wires when the stator bolted to the cover. I also removed a small ridge on the SEM plate that I was concerned may damage one of the wires.

6) Fit the ignition cover to the bike. I found the ignition cover would not sit properly and ended up packing it out by using a 0.8mm thick gasket to get it to sit properly. The Electrix World stator seems slightly taller than the SEM and I found it was rubbing on the flywheel tapered hub. Packing out the cover or else skimming the mount plate by say 1mm will fix this problem.

7) Fit the CDI and coil. This requires making some simple brackets and a lot of cursing as it's a tight fit under the tank on the single shock frame. This took me ages!

8) Start the bike and grin like a fool because it's got a nice fat spark and will start hot and cold. I found it now will start on the choke whereas with the old SEM fitted it would never do that - It didn't have enough energy . The bike now starts well, idles reliably ( it would stall at the drop of a hat before) and seems to run better but haven't track tested it yet.....can't wait!

I recommend the mod but it would be easier if Electrix World supplied it with the correct mount plate for the inverted ignition. I was a bit reluctant to pull to coil off the plate in case it didn't work after I was finished!
 
Very interesting. Well done.

What are the main issues with the original units? Just wondering what i should look out for.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top