Electrical problems, TE449 2011

[Yurii]

Hello everyone. I didn't find a similar topic so decided to create a new one.

My bike Husqvarna TE449, MY2011, 2800 km (trail rides)
After a ride I have washed my bike. Everything as usual. Didn't put a lot on ECU and throttle.
Started the engine, let it dry working on idle and had a short ride to my garage where I stopped the engine and lubricated chain and linkage (approx 30 min engine was stopped).
Then I decided to start the engine but it didn't start: starter was working properly, it almost started but it didn't. It feels like air-fuel mixture is wrong.
All the time I have released the start button, I hear the sound during ~30 sec probably from working second throttle electric motor. (I attached video)

View: https://youtu.be/iF9iJk3uZFw


So I reset TPS as described in a relevant article. After TPS has been reset the engine started but hardly.I made a short ride around, everything feels ok, engine responded as usual, no control issues, but I found that after I stopped the engine the second throttle electric motor doesn't make a sound, that sound that we hear in ~10 sec after stopping the engine.

My friend advised me to check and clean all contacts, connectors, relays etc.
During the cleaning I found that SENSOR THROTTLE CPL, part number 8000H4737 (picture attached) is cracked and probably some water could be inside or whatever inside this body can be broken.






Now I'm going to order this part and replace it.

I need your experienced advice or any thoughts - could be a cracked sensor a cause of my issue and by replacing the unit 8000H4737 will I solve the problem OR I have to keep looking for cause of the problem?

Thank you in advance. Excuse me, so many text - I tried to explain and describe the whole situation

 

[Dangermouse449]

It is possible that water has got in and caused your problem. The sensor is cheap and easy to remove, but it supposed to be reset to the correct setting using the dealer tool (HST)
You could also buy test plug online and set it using a multimeter. I have a file with the base settings if you need them.
Hopefully the second butterfly motor not making any noise is just because of the sensor and not another problem.

This is the tool I bought (black one on the left suit)www.tpstool.com

 

[Yurii]

It is possible that water has got in and caused your problem. The sensor is cheap and easy to remove, but it supposed to be reset to the correct setting using the dealer tool (HST)
You could also buy test plug online and set it using a multimeter. I have a file with the base settings if you need them.
Hopefully the second butterfly motor not making any noise is just because of the sensor and not another problem.

This is the tool I bought (black one on the left suit)www.tpstool.com

If the procedure is similar to the video you have on link - I think I could handle it. Please send me the file with settings.
If the sensor it the same as for KTM, maybe KTM guys can help me with this issue? I have KTM dealer close to my area.
Thank you a lot for the advises

 

[Dangermouse449]

Only the plug is the same. Different brand ECU & software on your BMW era bike. Only Red Husky dealers had the tool.
I'm about to head off to bed, but will message you the settings tomorrow

 

[Yurii]

Only the plug is the same. Different brand ECU & software on your BMW era bike. Only Red Husky dealers had the tool.
I'm about to head off to bed, but will message you the settings tomorrow

The problem is there is no Red Husky dealers in Ukraine.
No rush, I will receive new sensor in ~3 weeks...

 

[Dangermouse449]

OK.
I would get the TPS tool adapter plug. It is an inexpensive item that will help you see what is going on.
It is also helpful for adjusting the primary TPS value up a little to make the fuelling richer. This will help with 'Flame-outs'.
The Primary setting is often 0.6v or even a little less, the mapping is set up to run from a base setting of 0.7v at idle.

The secondary setting is as per the screen-shot below. It can only be done with the engine off, but electrics on.
You would have to get a reading quickly after the ignition switch is turned on, before the parking/calibration function runs - [the whirring noise when you turn the key off]

It may take a few goes to get it right, but should be able to do it. Remember VERY small movements make quite large voltage changes.

##### MOST IMPORTANT ##### Don't power anything up with plugs or wiring disconnected & don't remove the large black square secondary throttle motor. Damage may occur.

Hope this helps.

 

[Yurii]

OK.
I would get the TPS tool adapter plug. It is an inexpensive item that will help you see what is going on.
It is also helpful for adjusting the primary TPS value up a little to make the fuelling richer. This will help with 'Flame-outs'.
The Primary setting is often 0.6v or even a little less, the mapping is set up to run from a base setting of 0.7v at idle.

The secondary setting is as per the screen-shot below. It can only be done with the engine off, but electrics on.
You would have to get a reading quickly after the ignition switch is turned on, before the parking/calibration function runs - [the whirring noise when you turn the key off]

It may take a few goes to get it right, but should be able to do it. Remember VERY small movements make quite large voltage changes.

##### MOST IMPORTANT ##### Don't power anything up with plugs or wiring disconnected & don't remove the large black square secondary throttle motor. Damage may occur.

Hope this helps. View attachment 61480

Thank you! Will be waiting for my parts.

 

[Tinken]

Adjusting the TPS is a bandaid fix. There is no way a TPS adjustment will add enough fuel to properly fuel a 2011 449. The 2011 te449 is so under fueled that a properly fueled te310 will out perform it. A piggyback fuel controller such as the powercommander 5 is the only way to do it correctly.

 

[Dangermouse449]

You sir, are full of it.
I can run with 450 Bergs and KTMs without any trouble.

Not every fix requires a big dollar and on part.

 

[Huskynoobee]

I can tell ya that while the TPS adjustment surely does help with low speed stall, there's more power to be had and improved off idle performance to be had. The JD helped somewhat, but after finally dropping the cash (that myself like you didn't want to, or felt I needed to do DM) on the PCV made it better all around.

It really shines for me in tight, slow, technical nasty singletrack where I find myself not needing to cover the clutch near as much and can lug it down really low, then blip the throttle with zero hesitation.

I resisted for a couple of years, but can't think of having it any other way now.

 

[Dangermouse449]

1/ I acknowledge that there is more to be had with the mapping.
Every car/bike/truck on the road has been fuelled down to pass a test.
How did Husqvarna do it on this engine?
By moving the primary TPS voltage setting below when the maps were set up at, thereby leaning the entire range and fitting the catalytic muffler.
The Factory idle TPS setting is 0.7v, ALL of the bikes I've had anything to do with so far are down at or just below 0.6v. With a working voltage range of 0.6 to the high 3v, low 4v range, small increases have quite a bit effect.
My bike DOES NOT run lean, on our faster rides I'm returning to the car with the fuel lamp on at 75km. I have had Cat SOS oil samples done and they come back clean but for the message all racecar tuners would be familiar with ' this engine is over fuelling, please check fuelling and re-sample'. I also have a recent video where my 'under- powered' TE449 hammers my friend's 450 Berg on the rear wheel while his holds the same gear up the incline.

My point is, you do NOT NEED to fit a tuner to get acceptable performance out of these bikes!
Is there more in there with dyno mapped fuel controllers? Absolutely there is, yes.
Is it worth spending $3-500 plus dyno time on a bike that has been out of production for 2 yrs and has no dealer support in most countries, no, it isn't.

Tinken, are you saying that a 310 is approaching 50hp standard, if so, I find that very hard to believe.
It is a statement made to get a reaction, nothing more

2/ You didn't read Yurri's post or my reply correctly.

Yurri's questions relate to his damaged SECOND butterfly shaft TPS sensor, and how he could replace it.
The information I supplied is his best chance away from a dealer of getting a new sensor fitted and working.

 

[Tinken]

You sir, are full of it.
I can run with 450 Bergs and KTMs without any trouble.

Not every fix requires a big dollar and on part.

A stock 2011 TE449 has 29hp, not 50. What dream world are you in?
Like I said, a 2011 TE 449 will not run properly without fuel tuning. Verified by BMW and Husqvarna in the creation of map3 and us, Husky's factory team/my dynometer. We had these prototypes before the public and I have factory ecu's you don't even know exist.

 

[Dangermouse449]

Again you've twisted what I've said.
I stated approaching 50 hp as advertised by the Factory.
The same as advertised by other companies of the era.
Are you going to sit there and tell me that my bike, one you've never ridden is making the same power as a well tuned XR250?

That aside, if I was going racing, I would not rely on adjustment of the TPS alone, this I accept.
For fast non-competative riding it is a perfectly acceptable outcome.
These bikes are past their racing days and simply aren't worth spending huge money on.
Not when they will operate perfectly well with free adjustments.

As for you jumping in and going off again, my ORIGINAL answer was not primarily to do with the PRIMARY TPS, but was at least an attempt to assist a fellow rider fix his SECONDARY TPS issue without a dealer.
Something a PCV can not do.

I don't see your Team Husky knowledge offering a solution there, only another chance to deride any help I offer.
Good day to you.

 

[Tinken]

The 2011 449/511 wiring harnesses are not waterproof like the 2012's and are prone to all kinds of water contamination, connection issues and zero loop feedback errors.

Your repetitive attempts to discredit myself and my company have been futile and silly. 29hp is approaching 30hp, not 50. The only 449 ever advertised at 50hp by the factory was a TC449. The 2011 TE449 is a far cry from a TC and even then it was not realistic. Even if you swapped out your mapping to #3 which isn't possible on the original 2011 oem 449 ecu's, your bike is still far too lean to even come close to any form of the word acceptable. It is finally obvious that your version of "fast non-competitive riding" is much different from everyone elses on this forum, certainly much slower than our version of riding. Yes, without even seeing your bike, it is lean and slow. Since you are slow rider, you can find this acceptable. But don't assume that everyone else would find this acceptable because they don't. Personally, if I wanted something to put-put around on, I would have bought a Vespa.

 

[Huskynoobee]

OK boys, I've got an idea. DM, you and I have basically stock bikes in terms of exhaust and engine. The main difference being that I've got the PCV. We have the same base map loaded as our ECUs are locked. I even still have my secondary butterfly.

What say you take your bike to a dyno and I'll take mine to one and we can compare the numbers. I'm actually quite curious what my bike puts out with just this mod. I feel like I'm getting at least 40hp, but my ass dyno is not an accurate measure.

 

[Tinken]

No problem, we can set up an appointment to run your bike.

 

[Dangermouse449]

Thanks again for your wisdom.
The Factory claimed 46.5 hp in its first dealer release for the TE449, 50 for the TC449 and 51 for the TE511.
These were the Euro Spec bikes with the Akro muffler, not the Cat exhaust you probably base your claim on.
Thanks also for you critique of my riding style, as you've obviously been to where we are and seen our riding areas and followed us around.

The bike WAS lean, I fixed it, without bolting on a single part and now it uses a full tank of fuel on a fast ride in around 75 km.
I doesn't leak, it doesn't evaporate, it is being burned by the engine.

Did you ever move a carby needle a clip or two on an old bike to richen it up? Very likely yes!!
This is PRECISELY the same thing, courser that a full map job but effective.
It works, end of story.

And still, you've added nothing to assist the original poster of this thread.

 

[Tinken]

That's a claimed 46.5 at the crankshaft, not the rear wheel. Farconni, 5 different Akropovics, 6 FMF's, Procircuit, slip-ons, full systems, other brands, multiple fuels, air boxes, etc, etc, tested more than you could ever imagine, on a real dynometer and not just tweaking the tps. Your bike is not tuned correctly, end of story, glad you're contempt, Mickeymouse.

 

[Huskynoobee]

My bike has the Euro style Akro too. Probably not nearly as good in terms of flow compared to an FMF etc. Let's drop all the mean stuff and get some numbers going. Until we can get some real data, it's all academic.

I think this would be a great test. Add on fueler, vs. system adjustments-which is the better option. A good dyno test will not only show the power, but also give done good air/fuel data through the range.

 

[Stacey Hanson]

I can tell ya that while the TPS adjustment surely does help with low speed stall, there's more power to be had and improved off idle performance to be had. The JD helped somewhat, but after finally dropping the cash (that myself like you didn't want to, or felt I needed to do DM) on the PCV made it better all around.

It really shines for me in tight, slow, technical nasty singletrack where I find myself not needing to cover the clutch near as much and can lug it down really low, then blip the throttle with zero hesitation.

I resisted for a couple of years, but can't think of having it any other way now.

I just bought a '13 TE449 used with 1500 miles on it. It has the smog off, new FMF pipe, and remapped for the pipe. But I'm experiencing a lot of these flame outs and deceleration stalls with the bike. What do you suggest I try first? This is my first husky and first bike with fuel injection.