• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Fighting with a 08 450 Suspension Tuning

MudWalker;93541 said:

mudwalker- you have alot of misinformation- I don't have the time to point you in the right direction- but someone probably will. you have to know what clickers do what before turning them- also know what preload is versus fork height in tripple clams (effects rake). I assume you have seriously maladjusted your bike- not as you intended. Get a manual or even an owners manual- or find the stock settings again and start from there. Read some basic tuning and set up threads. Make adjustments as needed-

btw- I love my stock 09TE450 suspension- completed set up for me - took out some compression- added some rebound. Much better than my KTM.:thumbsup:
 
HUSKYnXJnWI;93607 said:
mudwalker- you have alot of misinformation- I don't have the time to point you in the right direction- but someone probably will. you have to know what clickers do what before turning them- also know what preload is versus fork height in tripple clams (effects rake). I assume you have seriously maladjusted your bike- not as you intended. Get a manual or even an owners manual- or find the stock settings again and start from there. Read some basic tuning and set up threads. Make adjustments as needed-

btw- I love my stock 09TE450 suspension- completed set up for me - took out some compression- added some rebound. Much better than my KTM.:thumbsup:

I don't think I'm that far from what I need.....as you said, take out some compression add some rebound to control the front end after hitting an obsticle. My question was is it uncommon to be 2 clicks from full soft on compression and say 8-10 clicks (near the middle) on rebound? Are the number of clicks compression and rebound supossed to remain the same?

I got the bike with the forks moved up in the triple clamps, PO did that and the dealer who also rides a TE250 suggested leaving that setting. My shock spring was set max tight. All the clickers were set to full hard, he must have been jumping the thing! I'm riding steep goat trails in 2nd and 3rd gear and rarely get off the ground!

I tried all stock settings from my manual and still the front end wants to bounce off rocks/roots thus I am now set near full soft which I am liking better but I want to try increasing front rebound dampning. Also as I only have 500 miles, it's now clear I may not even be broken-in yet, thus my overly stiff complaint.

I asked if compression adjustment was on top of the fork because the manual wasn't completely clear and with upside down forks my brain was making assumptions......my KDX compression clickers are on top but the forks are regular old style (not upside down) so I figured I better ask just to be safe.

Thanks.
 
Lucifer2466;92621 said:
2008 te450 uncorked,

Ok putting all the bullshit aside, I rode a little when I was a kid, Though I was a real bad-ass cause I never dropped a bike or wrecked. But now im 26 and have bought this TE 450 and have been struggling ever since. Just rebuilt the suspension "due to leaky fork seals" got 7.5 weight put in shocks at slightly higher then stock oil height. I haven't really set the sag yet, I just kinda realized that the static sag was too low so I tightened the spring down almost as much as it would go. Feels kinda stiff. I weight 182 LBS and am 5 , 11' .
Here is the skinny, Last time I rode was at a "last man standing style track, alot of big technical rocky terrain. Emma long park austin texas. I fell like 6 times and was off my bike for a month due to a strained back. I mainly just considered it to be due to inexperience.

Any!!! feedback Would be great

Great post and you will be a suspension genius after this ;)
You have to set the front and rear sag correctly on any bike or nothing else you do will be correct ...

First, the TE is a street and trail bike ... It is never gonna too good on a track due to the jumps if nothing else as they will start bottoming out the suspension once you do any jumps of any size ... You can revalve for the track and then you are messing up the trail riding ... You'll have to make up UR mind here on what you want ... Not that you can't ride it on a track, it'll do well in certain sections but you'll just finally run into suspension issues there due to what the bike was meant to be used for ... Same as if you take a track bike to the trails...suspension issues will arise ...

I'm riding my TXC on tracks also and increasing the oil amount in the forks help on bottoming but this can cause other side effects so you must be careful in this balancing act ...

Now, for the trail riding...
Set the sag, front and rear, set the clickers back to the default settings and start from there. Trail riding means you can use about the entire front and rear suspensions strokes to soak up the roots, bumps, and rocks, so after the sag is set, the clickers are usually set very soft ...

My 08 TXC250 manual states the compression is on the bottom and the extension is ADJ on the top ...

These links will give you some ideas on setting and sag suspension stuff in general ..

http://www.cafehusky.com/forums/showthread.php?p=34365#post34365

http://www.cafehusky.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8094

http://www.cafehusky.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9103&highlight=setting+sag

http://www.cafehusky.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2911&highlight=sag+front+forks
 
MudWalker;93541 said:
New to Husky too.....coming from a KDX200 the suspension on my 07TE 250 is very harsh. I've spent time going from near full hard to near full soft and then switched back and forth to the old KDX. My son who has inherited the KDX agrees, the Husky needs to be softer in the terribly bony stuff we ride on. Problem I have is, I spent my savings on this bike and can't see giving up the time or the $ to get the suspension professionally modified. Maybe this winter but not now.

Until then, help me out. The OP is correct the front end rebound tends to throw the front end off track. To correct this as much as possible with stock forks, please advise if I'm all wrong, I'm same size as OP.

Raise forks in to 3rd line, about 1/2", this is spring preload yes?

I'm thinking looking at my fork travel I was not using enough to deal with rough terrain so I started adusting forks to full soft, They were one click from full hard. Please verify compression dampning is on top of forks right? With rebound on full soft things are better but still getting the front end thrown around when hitting big rocks/roots. Is it ok to crank up fork rebound say 8 to 10 clicks leaving compression at say 2 or do the two adjustments need to match each other?

My shock spring was set at full preload so I backed that off and sag is ok, maybe a little long and I'm getting comfortable with the rear. Is it just me or do you have to partially remove the linkage dogbone to adjust shock rebound dampning at the bottom of the shock?

Thanks for posting, I'm with you on this being pretty frustrating as I didn't know before buying this bike that I would be not so happy with the suspension. I'll get it sorted, I just know this bike will grow on me.

You have to set the front and rear sag correctly or nothing else you do will be correct ... I'd check it all again .. front and back ... This is first thing that has to be set ... You will never get UR bike right unless this is correct ... Everything else will just be trying to cover up the invalid sag setting if they are wrong.

Sliding the forks up in the triple clamps help a bike turn but is not the preload .... Sliding them down helps the bike stay stable in a straight line ... Think about a chopper here with a front end sticking way out ... U think it is gonna turn or go better in a straight line ... These things make a big difference in the handling of these bikes ...

I slide mine down in the clamps for the woods ....it is easy to do and you should try moving them around... 3 rings up is alot I'd say ...

No, on my bike, I can get at the rebound ADJ with out any issue but you might have to compress URs or whatever ...

Rebound is on the top of my 08 TXC250 forks ... and I set the pre-load internally with some clips .... I'm not sure what forks your bike has so I'm not sure how U set it on yours ...

UR gonna be a suspension genius here also I feel :)
 
Thanks for the reply Ray, just the kind of insight I'm looking for! :thumbsup:

Now, I have some wrenching to do.....if I only didn't have to work.

Keep the info coming folks, this is a great thread!
 
I have a TC 250 2008 with 50 mm Marzocchi on it and I have done the following;
Preload 1 clip lower(5 mm more preload wich means almoast 10 mm preload)
20-25 cc more oil in each fork leg (5 v)
3 clicks in on rebound and about stock on comp for hard tracks and 6 more on sand tracks.
It works great for me. I am only 70 kg, but rather quick:-)

Its worth a try before valving! And if you are heavier than me you probably need stiffer fork springs...
 
MudWalker;93782 said:
Thanks for the reply Ray, just the kind of insight I'm looking for! :thumbsup:

Now, I have some wrenching to do.....if I only didn't have to work.

Keep the info coming folks, this is a great thread!

Hey .... Did UR crash count continue to rise or have you leveled off ? :)
 
No more crashing! The forks are still slightly stiff but I have to wait, they tell me they will soften up with time.

I started over from scratch.....got happy with sag front and rear then setup to fine tune on the soft side for rocks/roots. Problem now is the kickstand is just slightly too long as static sag rests the bike ever so slightly lower so when it sits on the stand, the bike is pretty much standing up straight so the slightest nuge/wind will send her to the floor. I lean her to the wall now.
 
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