• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

first time top end dissasembly help

C

chinoz

Husqvarna
Hi i am currently in the process of rebuilding a top end for my husky 08 SMR. This is my first time tearing into the engine. Using service manual as reference.

Engine is already out of the bike, but what for next time what side of the bike do you think is easiest to take the engine out? (direction while standing behind the bike.)

Also is it very crucial how the piston ring gaps are aligned? Will they spin or move around when the engine runs? I think I may have messed this up but can always go back a few steps to correct.

Also need help with locating the proper TDC. You can see visually the piston will remain TDC for a certain rotational turn of the rear wheel.

Do I want to set up my timing gear for TDC when the piston first JUST reaches the top or midway, or towards the end when the piston is going back down? During all 3 of these the piston looks visually at TDC.

Will the orientation of the timing gear cogs force me to set it at a certain position?

thanks
 
chinoz said:
don't see and edit option but I meant to say piston instead of cylinder in the last part
Click to expand...

I figured that's what you meant. I fixed it for you :) You should be able to see the "edit" option now.

Welcome to Cafe Husky and good luck with your motor work!
 
I threw my answers in just after your original questions. Hope it helps.

Joel

chinoz said:
Hi i am currently in the process of rebuilding a top end for my husky 08 SMR. This is my first time tearing into the engine. Using service manual as reference.

Engine is already out of the bike, but what for next time what side of the bike do you think is easiest to take the engine out? (direction while standing behind the bike.)
When I did this I took mine out the right side of the bike, not sure if it is easier but it was definitely easy that way

Also is it very crucial how the piston ring gaps are aligned? Will they spin or move around when the engine runs? I think I may have messed this up but can always go back a few steps to correct.
Yes I believe it is crucial how the piston ring gaps are aligned

Also need help with locating the proper TDC. You can see visually the piston will remain TDC for a certain rotational turn of the rear wheel.
I set this up with the engine on the bench so I was turning the crank with a wrench and used a screwdriver or something of that type to visually verify that the piston was at the top of it's stroke. This eliminates any slop in the transmission/driveline that may be allowing your rear wheel to rotate without changing the position of the piston

Do I want to set up my timing gear for TDC when the piston first JUST reaches the top or midway, or towards the end when the piston is going back down? During all 3 of these the piston looks visually at TDC.
When it just reaches the top

Will the orientation of the timing gear cogs force me to set it at a certain position?
Typically

thanks
Click to expand...
 
Piston end gap location is important - the manual (handbook) shows placement and gap as well.
Ive found TDC to be where the keyway is cut out for the rotor when it is vertical (kind of in the middle position of what you have described). When installing the cams you'll place a rod (1/4" wooden dowel) in spark plug hole and mark on chain sprocket should line up with mark on head.
 
thanks for the replies, answers my questions

Well.. the engine is back mounted on the bike as of now, do you think its worth me tearing it back down to correct the piston ring gap positioning? When reassembling I kinda just had the rings indiscriminately ordered not paying attention to the gap orientation.

Can power loss occur if all the ring gaps line up? Do the rings rotate due to the cross hatch inside the cylinder when the engine is running? seems like they would then be randomized anyway if they do rotate.
 
the rings should be positioned to have the gaps away from each other, your manual should have a diagram, if not put the at 120 degrees from each other. you can lose compression and the engine will consume oil. unless you purposely put all the ring gaps in the same position I'd have to think it will be fine. having the bike back together you may as well just run it, you couldn't be that unlucky.
joker
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