Flame out causes me to fail motorcycle road test.

[batterup]

here is the map i am running. Just turned the brass screw out a half turn, still need to test ride. I tried having my ecu flashed by tinken, the flash didnt work because my bike is a 2011. Thats why i bought the pcv to cure the issue. My idle now runs about 2000rpm with the screw turned out. here is a video i just posted after turning screw out.

View: http://youtu.be/G3OJr72Da8o

 

[danny318]

I find the bike is happiest with the idle around 2100, like you have it between 2000 and 2200.

 

[Rearwheelin]

When I test road mine at the dealer I couldn't believe how crapy they ran and refused to buy it until the off-road plug was in. It still ran crapy . Can't believe how open to law suits they left them selfs with the TE 449/511. They don't run right , especially in traffic .

 

[bigmo]

I find the bike is happiest with the idle around 2100, like you have it between 2000 and 2200.

I agree - at first I thought 2100 felt really fast - but the bike is clearly happy there and there are no real downsides.

 

[jasov]

I bought a lightly used 2013 TE511 this past winter. Less than 200 miles on her. I know why I got such a good deal on it.
It flames out almost every time I roll up to a stop sign. The first time I took her out on the road she stalled as I came into a busy intersection. I had to push her to the curb in heavy traffic.
I installed a Jumper wire in the MAP plug and got it to read MAP II when I start her up. Still flames out. I purchased and installed the JD Power Surge 6x. Still flames out. I'm pissed!
I have been trying to follow what you all are talking about in this thread but I'm having difficulty. I am more of a visual learner. Would any of you post some photos? I'm wondering what and where this butterfly valve is? I don't know what a TPS sensor is. Where do I find it and how do I adjust it? Where is that throttle body? I was looking for that brass Air adjustment screw and I don't see any brass screws where I thought I should be loooking.... I want that Sweet Motorcycle to run like a champ. I'm very disappointed!

Thanks all!
Jasov

 

[Motosportz]

The BF will not really solve that issue IMHO. Its more a EFI timing and mapping thing. Some bikes flame out EZ some dont flame out at all. Read through this forum and try the favious solutions. Good luck.

 

[huskylove]

I bought a lightly used 2013 TE511 this past winter. Less than 200 miles on her. I know why I got such a good deal on it.
It flames out almost every time I roll up to a stop sign. The first time I took her out on the road she stalled as I came into a busy intersection. I had to push her to the curb in heavy traffic.
I installed a Jumper wire in the MAP plug and got it to read MAP II when I start her up. Still flames out. I purchased and installed the JD Power Surge 6x. Still flames out. I'm pissed!
I have been trying to follow what you all are talking about in this thread but I'm having difficulty. I am more of a visual learner. Would any of you post some photos? I'm wondering what and where this butterfly valve is? I don't know what a TPS sensor is. Where do I find it and how do I adjust it? Where is that throttle body? I was looking for that brass Air adjustment screw and I don't see any brass screws where I thought I should be loooking.... I want that Sweet Motorcycle to run like a champ. I'm very disappointed!

Thanks all!
Jasov

Guys....Take a turn out of the air screw. IT will fix 80-90% of the flameouts, but will raise the idle and reduce engine braking. Then you can remove the butterfly and idle arm, to get back engine braking and stop hanging or high idle intermittently. Then to gain back performance/reduce any bog or issues, you can then add fuel or adjust the AP function of a power commander/jd tuner.

First things first to get the bike rideable turn the air screw out until it has a nice stable 2000-2100rpm idle. This will help a TON! Trust me been there done that. It cured most of my stalling, all was good until I uncorked the fmf with the open insert, and vented my airbox, then I had stalling more often, thus I installed the power commander and gained a ton of power at high rpm and have been fiddling with it since.


Try the air screw first********************************************************************************!

I went from stalling when I pulled in hte clutch or touching the throttle to only stalling 1 of 100 times.

 

[Dangermouse449]

Jasov,
Replied on the other thread, similar to above.
Start basic, idle screw etc.
Happy to help with pics, pm me if needed.
If you snoop around the net, you'll find a downloadable manual for your bike, it has pics for component locations to assist.

 

[danny318]

These bikes know if you don't love them.

 

[Dangermouse449]

These bikes know if you don't love them.

Mine certainly know I wasn't happy with it before I fixed it.
It flameed our about a dozen times in one ride, in the end I'd just hold on the limiter after starting!!
Not good practice & especially from a mechanic owner.
I had had enough of its tantrums.

 

[eel125]

Huskylove is right on point turn up the idle . I haven't had a stall since. I absolutely love this bike , from its lightweight , power , suspension . This bike just eats up the whoops .

 

[Jonny B]

So I just took my motorcycle roadtest with my te449 and im so pissed. While i was doing my figure 8's the bike flamed out so I put my footdown and failed right on the spot. I have done the butterfly removal, added an fmf pip and even bought and installed the PCV with every damn map i could get my hands on and its still the same bullshit. I dont think there is a cure for this flameout. Hate this bike right now.

Same here, I tested on terra 650, but I new it was very lean out of the box. I let the instructor now of flame out potential. Sure enough it flamed out on test and he let me slide on test. Best of luck on next test.

 

[Dangermouse449]

People SHOULD NOT have to put up with this in a new bike.
It fires me up that we're all on here because we have trouble like this, and there are fixes, but at the end of the day Husqvarna released them as ready to ride road legal bikes and they don't have a cure for the faulty tuning!
The time we have all wasted......Grrrrrr!

 

[Thrasher]

batterup

Many of us with flameout issues have increased the fuel at 0 throttle, at and below idle.

 

[Mike-AK]

My 310 hasn't flamed out since I put on an FMF header and slip on and richened the CO settings in iBeat. I imagine remapping the Keihin ECU on a 449/511 and installing a more open exhaust would have the same effect.

 

[Thrasher]

Also, I'm the only one who I know of that's done this, but I retard the timing at low engine speed for the same reason.

 

[Mike-AK]

Also, I'm the only one who I know of that's done this, but I retard the timing at low engine speed for the same reason.
View attachment 41324

That's a good idea. When my 310 used to flame out, it seemed like it would kick back and stall like it was trying to run backwards.

 

[Dangermouse449]

Also, I'm the only one who I know of that's done this, but I retard the timing at low engine speed for the same reason.
View attachment 41324

It would be interesting to know what the actual factory advance is. I think your idea is a good one as mentioned before. Over advance can make an engine prone to stalling just like mixtures.

 

[jerbear610]

People SHOULD NOT have to put up with this in a new bike.
It fires me up that we're all on here because we have trouble like this, and there are fixes, but at the end of the day Husqvarna released them as ready to ride road legal bikes and they don't have a cure for the faulty tuning!
The timw we have all wasted......Grrrrrr!

I see your point but there's a fine line between selling a high performance "exotic" bike and trying to comply with the strict air quality regulations that they face in this day and age.
I've had all the flame out frustrations, temporary dead throttle issues, getting punked on that lip of that nasty step up because just when you needed forward momentum the most it decides
to flame out. Never failed...as if it knew the worst time to let you down and it did.
My cure all savior is the PCV w/AT. My 511 is probably running the best that it ever has since I've owned it. Just installed the TC Airbox lid a couple days ago and that will probably do it for me as far as performance
mods as this bike just flat out rips. I don't need any more power than it already has. I'm still lovin' my 511.

 

[Dangermouse449]

I see your point but there's a fine line between selling a high performance "exotic" bike and trying to comply with the strict air quality regulations that they face in this day and age.
I've had all the flame out frustrations, temporary dead throttle issues, getting punked on that lip of that nasty step up because just when you needed forward momentum the most it decides
to flame out. Never failed...as if it knew the worst time to let you down and it did.
My cure all savior is the PCV w/AT. My 511 is probably running the best that it ever has since I've owned it. Just install the TC Airbox lid a couple days ago and that will probably do it for me as far as performance
mods as this bike just flat out rips. I don't need any more power than it already has. I'm still lovin' my 511.

Yes, I fixed mine to, without adding anything, buy my point is we shouldn't have to if they aren't modified.
I mean this with respect, but blaming the emission laws isn't correct.
Millions of cars(including high performance models) around the world run much stricter emission regs than Euro III the TEs confirm to, but run perfectly well.
It IS possible to tune an engine to make power & run emission tests, it takes time & development money, but can be done.
BMW/ Husky used a two map system, standard & race map II, there's no reason the bike shouldn't ride well on the road with the massive CAT muffler but with low power, then fit the slip-on, turn to race map II and run well there.
My own opinion of it is it's simply poor tuning of the system.