• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

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    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

fork seal te 310

T

trav

Husqvarna
hi just wondering if anybody has had issues with fork seals on the 310 ive only done 300kms on my 310 and the seals are gone?
 
Hi trav.. yes i have had a few issues.. but they were never blown... sometimes a little dust gets trapped in the seal... or in my case the fork came out of alignment and somehow twisted the fork so the seals weeped..

I basically loosened the pinch bolts on the axel on the opposite side to brake disc.. made sure this was central, ie it moves freeley.. sit on the bike feet on floor and bounce that front wheel off the floor.. this has the effect of centralising the forks so they are not twisted. tighten the pinch bolts..
You can also cut a strip of tear off or really thin plastic.. think old film.. drop dust seal and slide it round fork tube easing it up under the fork seal.. and removing to clean film.. any grit comes with the film and the weeping stops..
If how ever you feel around the fork tubes and find a nick or sharp burr on the chrome part then you have cut the seal when it compresses into the fork and it will need to be replaced along with filing the nick out.
Nicks or burrs are casued by roost from other riders hitting the fork tubes..

hope this helps..

Andy
 
You might wanna pack the area between the dust seal and the actual seal with some grease after you have confirmed the seal is not blown ... It can very easily just be dirt or grit in there and just needs cleaning ... After that is fixed, the grease will help seal if off ....
 
If you are going to put something between the wiper and the seal it should probably be a piece of sponge about 10mm square (say half inch) and long enough to wrap around the lower fork leg. Then soak it in fork oil, squeeze out excess and away you go. I think it is great for dusty conditions, however it is not a set and forget job. Depending on the conditions it should be cleaned regularly.
 
Just put a blunt instrument on that cap and tap it down ... it is sort of sitting up in the tube like the seal is but in this case, you can just tap it down from the top ...
 
09 450te have 3500 miles so. No issues for me on this bike, however my old TE I replaced the seals 4 times within 13000 in two years. Some seals would last less than 1000 miles then others would survive over 5000....? Where I ride has a fair amount of clay in the soil. I have found in the past that clay will toast the seals. I have a thin screwdriver that is the dust seal tool and I keep the seals as clean as I can.
 
I've done 7 sets in 4500km on my 09 310. Some seals haven't even lasted the trip to the ridding place.
 
I tried to "pry" down the wipers a while ago and the screw driver just popped off and put a little scratch in the tube. I will try tapping them down next. Do you tap them back up?
 
Yep, they will just pop back up in place ... That rubber piece wrapped around the tube makes removing them a little deceiving .... It does not really hold anything in place but appears to ... It is the cap inside the rubber piece that needs to be tapped downward ... Once removed, just tap it back up ... I did the grease trick also ...

My camera is toast or I'd post some pics ;(

Paul, U most likely have some issue causing the seals to go bad that quickly ...
 
paul b;133381 said:
i've done 7 sets in 4500km on my 09 310. Some seals haven't even lasted the trip to the ridding place.
Click to expand...

ive had the same prob paul ? Were can i get cheaper seals ? Im in santa cruz and they cost 75.00 per set
 
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