Gas Leaking out the Carb Overflow Tube - 07 TE 510

[agordon]

The bike is an 07 TE 510 with the JD Jet Kit. It stared with a slow leak when the bike was on the side stand and has progressively gotten worse. Not when I turn out the petcock gas starts pouring out the overflow tube even when the bike is level.

I allready bent the tab on the float up to try and better seat the rubber tipped stopper needle. This did not work. I inspected the needle and float and it all look in good condition.

Is the next step replacing the float and stopper needle? Is there something I am missing? Anyone else had the same problem?

Thanks,
Alex

 

[Troy F Collins]

The bike is an 07 TE 510 with the JD Jet Kit. It stared with a slow leak when the bike was on the side stand and has progressively gotten worse. Not when I turn out the petcock gas starts pouring out the overflow tube even when the bike is level.

I allready bent the tab on the float up to try and better seat the rubber tipped stopper needle. This did not work. I inspected the needle and float and it all look in good condition.

Is the next step replacing the float and stopper needle? Is there something I am missing? Anyone else had the same problem?

Thanks,
Alex

The viton tipped needle and seat could be worn out......but more than likely if you take it all apart..you'll find a small piece of debris or dirt preventing the needle from seating.....

take the carb off and remove the bowl and float...blow out all the passages....

 

[7point62]

Is the float pivoting super-freely on it's pin? Mebbe it's a little tight for some reason. It could be leaking between the needle seat and carb body (I'm assuming there's the usual o-ring on the seat). As it's a non-moving part these usually only give trouble if the bike's been stood for a long time without draining the carb or if it's been damaged during reassembly, but you never know. With the carb removed and the float bowl off you can check where the leak is by inverting the carb, applying a little WD40 to the needle / seat area and blowing gently down the fuel intake pipe (don't ingest any gas!). Twist the carb so the float opens, then rotate it back inverted again. Any leak should be immediately apparent.
If it's not wear then it's usually contamination. Probably a good time to drain the tank, remove the petcock and clean it, check it's gauze for damage, etc. Good luck - don't forget to reset the float height / fuel level back to it's factory setting.

 

[Coffee]

The bike is an 07 TE 510 with the JD Jet Kit. It stared with a slow leak when the bike was on the side stand and has progressively gotten worse. Not when I turn out the petcock gas starts pouring out the overflow tube even when the bike is level.

There should be some difference between vertical and laying the bike way over (45++ degrees). If there is not then the something is really wrong. If there is some change then for some reason it is not sealing when the float valve meets the seat.

In case someone is reading this that is unfamiliar with carbs, it works just like a toilet float, when the liquid level gets high enough then the valve should close and stop all fuel. When the bike lays over far enough it should open and allow fuel to drain because the relative height has changed - just like leaning a toilet tank over (if that was possible).


My wild guess to the problem might be old fuel has gummed things up.

 

[agordon]

Thanks for the responses. I will pull the carb off the bike and give it a good cleaning. I will also clean out the tank. The bike has not sat for a long period, but it could have some dirt in it. Hopefully this will solve it. I like the idea of inverting the carb and blowing in the intake tube.

Another quick question... when pulling the carb off the bike in the past had to remove the sub-frame so I could pull the air filter boot. I could not wedge the carb out with the boot in place. Am I making extra work for myself? Is it possible to remove the carb with the air filter boot and sub-frame in place?

Thanks,
Alex

 

[Coffee]

I can only speak with authority about my 2006 TE250 where simply loosening the band clamps allow the carb to slide out with everything in place.

I have however rejetted a 2007 TE510 and several other 2006/7 bikes the same way. Just deform the airbox then pull back from the more stiff manifold (thicker rubber tube attached to engine) - then slide it out.

I noticed your location is California. Where I live the gas is stable for about 4-6 weeks before it becomes 'not good' for bike use. It especially seemed to affect our smaller low tech bikes with CV carbs as opposed to the Keihin on the Husky. I've been using Stabil fuel stabilizer and everything is well, even the lawn equipment likes stabil much better.


When I have old fuel in bikes to dispose of I put it in the cars and trucks, they seem to like it just fine.

 

[agordon]

I finally got this fixed. It was the o-ring that seals the float valve seat. It was so trashed that I used at "dental pick" like tool to scrape the old hardened and decomposed o-ring from the float valve seat. I also wanted to replace the rubber tipped float valve needle, but it's on back order. I rebuilt the carb with the new o-ring and old needle and no more leaks. If anyone else is having this problem, I would take a look at this o-ring. It's #37 on the Sudco parts breakdown.

 

[Coffee]

Thanks for following up!

Did you try other brands of bikes? The carbs are used on many different brands.

 

[Dirtdame]

I finally got this fixed. It was the o-ring that seals the float valve seat. It was so trashed that I used at "dental pick" like tool to scrape the old hardened and decomposed o-ring from the float valve seat. I also wanted to replace the rubber tipped float valve needle, but it's on back order. I rebuilt the carb with the new o-ring and old needle and no more leaks. If anyone else is having this problem, I would take a look at this o-ring. It's #37 on the Sudco parts breakdown.

Just saw this thread and was going to suggest that you check the seat o-ring. Doesn't happen often, but I saw it happen to a friends bike a while back.

 

[suchoffm]

Hello all, thanks for the good info. I think I have the same problem on my '06 te 510. I'm not near my documentation. Can you point me to a web resource where I can order the o-ring (part # 37)? I'm very new to the brand, and haven't rebuilt a carb in a while, but I've done so successfully in the past. Thanks,
Mike

 

[suchoffm]

ok... i know where to get the part, but am totally confused as to the best way to get the carb off to do the inspection / replacement. Can I get up to the o-ring by simply loosening the clamps and rotating the carb toward the LHS? Or does the carb have to come off of the 510? If it needs to come off, are there any visual references that will guide me? I can't see how to remove the throttle cables and had a hard time seeing how to get the carb out period. It seems so tightly mounted in its space.

Thanks a lot.

Mike

 

[Louge]

Yes, you can simply rotate the carb to service the float. Be very conscious of the float pin sliding out and going behind the starter (ask me how I obtained that pearl of wisdom ). Support it with a finger.

 

[Chayzed Pilot]

You can also go to a hardware or auto parts store and pick up an oring that may fit. I just had to replace it in my 04 450. Total cost was 15 cents. Sudco........who knows what the price would be. With the fuels in Kali this may a recurring problem. I am hoping not, but I have about ten of them in my oring kit if I need them.

Scott

 

[Huskyrider]

I had the same problem on my TE450 and found an oring in my Harbor Freight Oring kit. Cheap fix.
Mark

 

[Up-tite]

Mikuni,Kehein, have all changed the material composition of their O rings and rubber parts because of the gas addatives thats in it. Reason they are more money than the chinese shit at Harbor freight or basically anywhere else.
Later George