• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

  • 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Austria - About 2014 & Newer
     TE = 2st Enduro & TC = 2st Cross

TE/TC Going on record as a Hater

kind of unrelated I saw Justins ZipTy FC450 race bike up at the shop, the rear composite subframe is ripped off the frame.......glad all he did was crack up his collar bone, also glad it was soft stuff landing, or it could have been worse.
 
You guys are making my head spin I have never adjusted my suspention I send it in. When I get it back I put it on and ride it period. Same thing with jetting. All my 2 strokes are as delivered from the Factory except the 300 which was stock. Then after Walt rebuilt it I went down a size on the main Does not matter where I ride or what what the temp is I just ride it Then seem to all work fine As for my one 4 stroke it is a 2006 TE 510 and back in 2006 I put a JD Jet kit in it and have never had to adjust it I do clean it but it goes back the way it was I have rode all of them from below sea level to over 8,000 feet with Temps from about 28 cold to 115 hot
 
robertaccio said:
When all this stuff gets in my head I start thinking like crazy...what if what if? what if the these beautiful billet cnc triple clamps are just to dang stiff causing harsh feeling.....(shut up mind)
I have email traffic between me, Randy at GPR and Jason at Flexxbars, so after some more playing my "keep the bike as naked(OEM stock) as possible" mantra may go out the window.
With the end of my time with the TXC450 into both my 310s the GPR V4 went onto the shelf, but with this machine Im really thinking to throw it on.
Another bit of info from Ty, for 2T machines he mentioned (not a recommendation only personal pref) short sag @ 25mm static and at or below 100mm race sag. I have always gone for low numbers rather than higher numbers I even had my KTM250 2T PDS bike at 99/100mm race with 33 static, all my 4 strokes have been at or a little below 35mm static with right at 100mm race. My TE300 sits at @36mm static 103 race sag.
I will add another turn into my TE300 spring Im still below 10mm preload on the spring collar @ 7mm. PS for info I use a tailors tape measure to keep tabs on my spring preload, the spring was accurate at 260mm OA un loaded per spec, with the tape I can get a good read on the spring as it is now mounted and preloaded with the collar its @ 253 = 7mm preloaded. the rule says no more than 10mm so I have 3mm to play with!!
Click to expand...

Ya I noticed that my static slipped a bit and is now at 1 1/2" which is close to 38mm right? Seems to have increased all by itself... I already added preload once since initial setting after replacing the spring with one for my weight. Seems to need another tweaking.
 
robertaccio said:
When all this stuff gets in my head I start thinking like crazy...what if what if? what if the these beautiful billet cnc triple clamps are just to dang stiff causing harsh feeling.....(shut up mind)
I have email traffic between me, Randy at GPR and Jason at Flexxbars, so after some more playing my "keep the bike as naked(OEM stock) as possible" mantra may go out the window.
With the end of my time with the TXC450 into both my 310s the GPR V4 went onto the shelf, but with this machine Im really thinking to throw it on.
Another bit of info from Ty, for 2T machines he mentioned (not a recommendation only personal pref) short sag @ 25mm static and at or below 100mm race sag. I have always gone for low numbers rather than higher numbers I even had my KTM250 2T PDS bike at 99/100mm race with 33 static, all my 4 strokes have been at or a little below 35mm static with right at 100mm race. My TE300 sits at @36mm static 103 race sag.
I will add another turn into my TE300 spring Im still below 10mm preload on the spring collar @ 7mm. PS for info I use a tailors tape measure to keep tabs on my spring preload, the spring was accurate at 260mm OA un loaded per spec, with the tape I can get a good read on the spring as it is now mounted and preloaded with the collar its @ 253 = 7mm preloaded. the rule says no more than 10mm so I have 3mm to play with!!
Click to expand...
I hate to fan triple clamp doubt.... When I switched from stock billet 22mm to 20mm clamps, the local KTM rep/AA NETRA Past Enduro Champ, told me to go for cast XC-W clamps, over OEM or Aftermarket billet ones. I like them! :busted:
 
You want stiff feeling with good rider input ride a Tm. Lol. For me the steel frame really helps. I've thought long and hard about flex bars but have never done it. Only ever ran a steering dampner on my race husky 144. Only cause it seemed to deflect some mostly I think because it was so light. In talking with halls seems like the new generation husky can benefit from a dampner and I had one installed. (Just had to buy the sub mount) which bums me out the bars are solid mount. The Tm handled every bit as good as a xlight chassis. I mean good. Felt safe when pushing the envelope. With one drawback. With the aluminum frame and solid mount bars you better have your a game on as it will punish you when u get tired. I never use my front brakes (just weird style) so we will see how the 4cs works. Rode a Buddy's 13 KTM sx 250 with revalve and flywheel weight. In the gnarly stuff felt pretty good and had a lower seat height then the Italian husky. Not sure I'll even get to ride my new bike before spring. We will see.....
 
The funny thing is rode my buddys I believe 06 yz 125 with a 155 kit. Was nice. Ironically the suspension felt better then my 144 husky that was revalved front and rear. We kept switching back and forth. I still liked the husky better but the darn yz suspension felt super nice and I couldn't believe it was stock!!
 
I have the flex bars, if you want some get some but don't think they will fix anything because they won't. I ran mine with red rebound then black and every compression. They help some with vibs but I personally got bad throttle hand arm pump and am switching back to stock which doesn't pump me up near as bad......

I also run a dampner and will not ride without one ever! I noticed I had to really stiffen my low speed on this new bike to help with the nervous slow speed twichyness that this bike seems to give me.

I'm in the prosses of trying 22mm clamps which I want to try raising forks to the second line and see if that can keep some weight on the front end and get rid of the twichy feel.
 
I love my flexx bars. I run yellow rebound and blue compression which correspond to my fork settings. The flexx bars move and take out the initial compression of the fork and progressively move downward. I think in that respect, they work well.
 
Ok, I'm thinking about adjusting the sag to see if it will help. After initial purchase and about 2 hours riding the suspension seemed good. I adjusted the sag to 30/100 and its got a mind of its own. I will say it has gotten better after a few hours on bike but it still seems off. Any thoughts on sag affecting or creating the harshness of the front suspension?
 
I've got the Pumpkin with them and tried 95, 100, and 105. Seems 100 was the best for my bike. I didn't try running the forks up or down was I was adjusting sags but don't think anything short of a re-valve is going to help me. Good luck and post up your results.
 
PS ZipTy builds a clamp/post assy from billet alloy , looks exactly same as the steel one that comes in the GPR kit, only way lighter.
 
i used flexxbars on both my 310s, TE came with them and I added them to the TXC-R, yellow yellow on TE yellow Red on TXC-R (comp reb)
 
Yes I love my flexbars wouldn't have spent the money on them myself but glad my son got me some. Now after having them they are worth the money and they don't go with the bike sale :D.
 
Please don't get me wrong flexx bars are great for certain things, for example my kx500 and helping with vibes. I was just saying, don't think they are fixing our 4cs issues.

I ran the subtank bars on other bikes and they really made a nice difference on initial square edge impacts but these 4cs don't really need the extra air volume from what I understand?? They worked nice on my 11' 570 berg and my wr300 though..
 
Chums said:
I ran the subtank bars on other bikes and they really made a nice difference on initial square edge impacts but these 4cs don't really need the extra air volume from what I understand?? They worked nice on my 11' 570 berg and my wr300 though..
Click to expand...

I played with fork subtanks for a few years. Even built myself some. They worked really well for off road.
 
Saw this on Endure 21 : KTM Motorcycles and Husqvarna Motorcycles have announced a global recall on specific models from the 2015 model year.
The issue affects around 750 models from the UK and Ireland.
Due to a supplier production fault, it is now necessary to check the torque setting of a nut between the fork’s piston rod and screw cap, within the 4CS fork chamber.
This check can be carried out by authorised KTM and Husqvarna dealers only. It takes about 25 minutes and is completely free of charge.
The fault generally occurs in the first few operating hours and is identified by a knocking sound from within the fork. In addition to this, the damping in the affected strut decreases.
The recall action affects the following models:
- See more at: http://www.enduro21.com/index.php/c...ct-on-2015-ktm-husqvarna#sthash.vF9T3sEg.dpuf Robert,Could your bike have had this problem?
 
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