• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

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    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Going to a 12 tooth counter sprocket

Tomcat61350

Husqvarna
B Class
I have a 2012 250txc and would like for 1st gear to lug a little more will going from a 13 tooth to a 12 tooth front sprocket help
 
It will certainly make it appear to have more low end, and will pop a wheelie much easier - which could be a good or bad thing depending on what is desired.

It is an inexpensive experiment to try. :cheers:
 
I have a 2012 250txc and would like for 1st gear to lug a little more will going from a 13 tooth to a 12 tooth front sprocket help

It's a great way to gear it down... It will be pretty dramatic, but 12t countershaft sprocket is what I run on both my 450 thumper, and 125 smoker, for the gnarly stuff...

1 tooth smaller on the front, is roughly equal to 3 teeth bigger on the rear if I'm not mistaken.
 
I'm doing the same thing on my TE 250. I don't know how anyone would be able to ride anything remotely technical with the 13/40t setup these things come with. I've already switched to a 50t rear but it still isn't enough. I'm spending way to much effort using the clutch when the trail gets tight.
 
I went 12 tooth on my TE450 (stock rear 47), and it made a nice difference for the tight stuff.....tractors easily now without stalling. Not much for driving on the street past 50 though.....
 
Here's a link to a sprocket gearing chart based on ratios...the move your going to make will be equal to adding 4 on the back...

It's a good, cheap way to test, but a pretty radical change should be noticed...

Check the ratios...going to a 12/50 setup will equal the same ratio as a 13/54. When it's time for a rear sprocket change maybe somewhere in the middle might be best.

I've been thinking about adding 1 tooth to the back, 13/51 for our '12 TXC250. Good luck.

http://www.jtsprockets.com/fileadmin/files/jtgearratio.pdf
 
I don't think a 2 tooth change is enough for what I need. 4 may be a little much but there's always second gear. The other factor I have to deal with in Indonesia is availability (and of course the expense of a new chain).
 
You shouldn't have to get a new chain by just going from 13 to 12 tooth on the front, or by adding 1 tooth on the rear. You should have enough room in your swingarm axle slide to do either.
 
I found 12/50 to low, first was ok, but everything else really bunched up, Ended up 13/52, the only downside there is I have a new BRP chain guide, the oem is worn through.
Be nice if husky went wide ratio for the txc/te.
 
I wanted to do a similar thing on my Honda 250.
The Honda workshop advised against going smaller on the counter sprocket and recomended I go bigger on the rear sprocket instead.
Their reason being that it makes the chain links bend more around a smaller sprocket which exacerbates chain wear and ultimate chain failure.

Make of it what you will:oldman:
 
I wanted to do a similar thing on my Honda 250.
The Honda workshop advised against going smaller on the counter sprocket and recomended I go bigger on the rear sprocket instead.
Their reason being that it makes the chain links bend more around a smaller sprocket which exacerbates chain wear and ultimate chain failure.

Make of it what you will:oldman:
That's actually a pretty good point. I've never had anything smaller than a 13 on any of my bikes, just might be a reason for that. I'm going to try it out as the expense is not too great and I've got the original chain that I can cut down if I wear this one out quickly.
 
i have 12/50 on my te510 and think it works great on the rocks, hills and tight stuff here in the northeast. like racerxs stated, not much on riding on the road. i think you would need like 12 gears if you rode this combo on the road. but luckily for me, i dont need to travel on the road. i will make the sacrifice for poor road riding to get great woods riding.
 
That's actually a pretty good point. I've never had anything smaller than a 13 on any of my bikes, just might be a reason for that. I'm going to try it out as the expense is not too great and I've got the original chain that I can cut down if I wear this one out quickly.

Well, they are right about the wear, but wrong about the reason. The reason that chains wears faster with a small CSS is that the chain gets stretched harder. A smaller CSS puts more tension on the chain because it has more leverage to pull on the chain. A larger CSS transmits the power by moving the chain faster, and consequently puts less tension on the chain. The small CSS moves the chain slower, but puts more tension on it. I know this isn't intuitive, but it's how it works.

This is a lot like voltage vs. current in electronics. The same wattage can be transmitted on a smaller wire if the voltage is higher and the amperage is lower.
 
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