• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

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Help! Broke the red OUT valve on fuel pump

M

mconway

Husqvarna
AA Class
so my 2008 SM610 isn't starting. Rode to work one day, got off the bike, remembered I had forgotten something at home and went to jump right back on and... nothing. Electrics go on, but nothing else. Battery is good and all the fuses I know to visually inspect look fine. I'm thinking maybe a fouled spark plug?
So, today I go to pull the spark plug and in the process, I clumsily break the red "OUT" valve coming off the underside of the fuel pump (under gas tank).

Can I replace this red plastic piece without buying a whole new fuel pump?

Please advise.IMG_3748.JPG
 
This is mine. I made the metal piece on my lathe then threaded it and screwed it into the plastic part with some sealant. Then I drilled a hole down through the top wall of the piece so the petrol could get through.
IMG_20150714_154545429_zpsekpvt6pn.jpg
 
You could order a replacement plastic elbow and try to fit it, but they do tend to break. As a better alternative, you can buy a brass fuel line elbow with a threaded fitting on one side and an inverted flare fitting on the other. Tap the fuel pump and install the elbow using a fuel resistant thread sealant. Attach fuel hose with a jubilee clip. Ive got this setup on my fuel pump by the PO after two different mechanics broke each of the plastic parts. Seems pretty tough.
 
mconway said:
so my 2008 SM610 isn't starting. Rode to work one day, got off the bike, remembered I had forgotten something at home and went to jump right back on and... nothing. Electrics go on, but nothing else. Battery is good and all the fuses I know to visually inspect look fine. I'm thinking maybe a fouled spark plug?
So, today I go to pull the spark plug and in the process, I clumsily break the red "OUT" valve coming off the underside of the fuel pump (under gas tank).

Can I replace this red plastic piece without buying a whole new fuel pump?

Please advise.View attachment 72888
Click to expand...

There have been reports that an Aprilia, Beta or Sherco 90° FI fitting works (Sherco part 0805 or possibly RB/0805).
http://www.splatshop.co.uk/sherco-90-degree-conector.html

later edit: looks like ZTR makes a fitting now for 610 & early TE/TCs: https://ziptyracing.com/products/gte-fi-husky

here are some relevant threads:
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/broken-fuel-pump-fittings-current-solution.80881/#post-537748
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/ju...bow-connector-on-08-te-450.83936/#post-577413
http://advrider.com/index.php?threa...s-sign-in-thread.156429/page-439#post-8664047

BTW, your fuel pump wiring harness looks a little beat up. The conduit not only protects the wires from damage/outside elements, but in your case also insulates them from heat. yours is pretty exposed.

There may be an allen set screw on the inside that holds your FI fitting in- I'm not sure. [edit: nope, the allen comes in above the fitting; I don't know what's holding the fitting in- maybe some tangs or barbs after looking at the Sherco site. BTW, I have a TC fuel pump I'm kinda modifying- and it's similar to yours. later edit: if you look at the image of the post that follows this one, you can see the tangs or barbs that hold it in]

good luck.
 
I have the Sherco elbow part en route.

Now, how do I extract this red plastic garbage?

And does the new Sherco bit just pop in?out.jpg
 
mconway said:
I have the Sherco elbow part en route.

Now, how do I extract this red plastic garbage?

And does the new Sherco bit just pop in?View attachment 73037
Click to expand...

thread a wood screw or tap of the "appropriate" diameter (I'd guess a mm less then the OUTSIDE diameter of the red outlet) and use that to pull. edit: I'm envisioning something like a 4" lag bolt probably around 5/16" diameter... but measure, don't wing it. (shit. I can't tell if you're english: 100mm and 8mm)

You might have to figure out some kind of jack-screw arrangement to do the pulling. i.e, a small metal bar with a hole in the center for the wood screw, and a hole at each end for a bolt with a nut on the tank plate side. screw the nuts up (away from the aluminum plate).

This is sorta what I had in mind (from another project):

IMG_2307.JPG
 
couple of quick points- I would remove the fuel pump plate from the tank before wrestling with it. also, in your last photo, that "starred" metal clip is what is retaining everything- the tangs are going into the the aluminum sidewall. If you could deform (or cut) that and pull it out, the rest of the broken outlet would come out (o-rings would provide a little resistance). do not scratch or score the upper/deeper outlet hole.

I think.
 
BTW, mconway- when you're done and everything is fixed, please come back with a report. Detail what worked and why, and especially what didn't work (and why). Also, let future readers know where you got the part and how much you paid etc. Take plenty of pictures... and post the best ones.

installing: I imagine (but do not know) that the new outlet is hand-pressed in the cleaned outlet hole. There may be a groove machined around the outlet hole that the tangs snap into (if so, you should hear a quiet snap)

please give us details when you're done.
 
In the end it was very simple (usually is, right?). After prying out the toothed metal ring with a pair of ordinary bathroom tweezers and multiple failed attempts at cutting the plastic bit in half (it's very hard plastic), I went to the hardware store and found a lag bolt that was just wider than the opening (sorry - I didn't take not of exactly what size it was and I didn't take pics as my phone was in my truck outside) I threaded the bolt down into the red plastic bit as far as I could with my hands. Then I walked over to the hand tool section and with a pair pliers I slowly screwed it a little further down. Then I took the pliers and got a strong grip on the lag bolt and slowly and evenly pulled the plastic out of the metal housing. Easy
 
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