• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

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    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Help!! Husky is driving me crazy

Tonyc1111

Tonyc1111

Husqvarna
2007 TE510. Leaks gas like crazy. Starts with choke. Runs with throttle open. Back fires and dies!! WTF!!!??!!?
Ran great for a long time. Has jet kit and smog removed. I cleaned the carb and drained fuel. I'm riding the sheet iron in less than two weeks. I'm ready to throw in the towel. F@!k I'm frustrated. Any help would be great.
 
Float may be stuck or a piece of junk in float needle, causing float to hang, fuel to continue flowing up to overflow height. Disassemble bowl and check float height and clean everything out.
 
Clogged CARBS makes all kind of things go wrong ....

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Unless you get better info, just go back into the CARB and fix the leaking first .. If the fuel is really flowing out the the over-flow hose, that points right at float level OR something in the needle jet seat... A slower leak drip can be the oRing that sits under the large jet that the needle jet sits in to stop the gas flow... Hope I used the right terms there.

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One of my bikes just today had been setting up too long and it would not run long at first when starting and would pop loudly and die ... I added some carb cleaner stuff and new gas and rode it and it cleaned itself up shortly... But I know I need to go inside that CARB as ethynol is causing my issue I'm sure due to the bike sitting too long.

I pull all the jets out of my CARB and use a can of WD40 or whatever with the red nozzle added and blow through all the CARB holes the jets were in .. .BE CAREFUL here as the force of the spray can come back at you from get in your eyes ... Air is safer but I do not have an air tank.

Same applies to the jets... Blow them out with air or the can spray but again, be careful with the spray ... That pilot jet is always critical for me ...You need to hold it up to the light and look through it to verify it is open ...

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Is that your ride? Confusing to me as Ft Bragg is on the east coast and Stonyford is on the west coast?

Sheetiron 300 Dualsport

May 16-17, 2015

The Sheetiron 300 Dualsport is a two-day ride from Stonyford to Fort Bragg and back over the weekend of May 16-17, 2015. The course is mostly dirt with easy and hard routes.


http://oaklandmotorcycleclub.camp9.org/event-1863205
 
ray_ray said:
Unless you get better info, just go back into the CARB and fix the leaking first .. If the fuel is really flowing out the the over-flow hose, that points right at float level OR something in the needle jet seat... A slower leak drip can be the oRing that sits under the large jet that the needle jet sits in to stop the gas flow... Hope I used the right terms there.
Click to expand...
^^ this (BTW, ray_ray: there is a Ft Bragg on the coast of Cali too)

Try this first with a warm bike: Turn the gas on until you got your leakage going, then turn it off. Start the bike up, ride it around (it may run perfectly fine for about 20 seconds- if so, great). keep riding until it runs out of gas. Now, in rapid succession, turn the fuel petcock on-off-on-off-on-off. And then leave the petcock on... no leaks? you're done.

Stills leaks? Try it again. Still no luck?...

... then you're gonna be taking the float bowl off (and probably carb too- not THAT big of a deal) and doing an inspection and float adjustment. BTW, when you first take the bowl gently off- look inside it at the very bottom for contaminants (dirt, water etc) before you toss the gas out.

a long time ago I made a ton of notes which said:
Carb overflowing? Try this old trick from the stone-age FIRST: turn the gas off, run the bike till it sputters, then turn the gas on-off-on-off-on-off quick as possible. Try it twice, maybe. This technique can flush a small particle stuck at the float needle seat, because the needle valve is dropped as far as it can go; and this may un-wedge your floats, if that is the problem (and if so- adjust the maximum drop of your floats, when you get home, via the small tab on the side). And if you are having small particles holding your needle valve open, you might be experiencing symptoms of another problem, like a petcock or fuel line is degrading or your tank is contaminated. Question: does rapping on the side of the float bowl really un-stick floats/needles in modern carbs? ....okay, *maybe* old Amal's but still...

carbs leak out the overflow tube for a few reasons (in order of likelihood IMNSHO):
  • particle in the needle seat (most common)
  • fuel in the gas tank is over-pressurized, forcing the float needle down (open the cap to verify)
  • float out of adjustment
  • varnish/contaminant around the seat
  • float-needle stuck
  • float stuck
  • worn float-needle
  • worn/scored seat (sorta rare with rubber-tipped needles used now)
  • carb drain slightly open (brass screw usually on the right side of the carb)
  • float sunk (very rare nowadays, especially with solid floats)
  • needle dropped out (not likely with maximum-drop tab on newer carbs)
  • metal tab on floats is broken (I've never seen this)
  • cracked or missing inner overflow pipe (I've never seen this)
  • float bowl has a leak into the overflow circuit (I've never seen this)
Click to expand...
 
So. I found the o ring on the float seat was cracked. I replaced it and stopped the leak. Now it runs with choke on. Then when I turn it off. It sounds like a series of light back fires and dies when I try to let it idle. When I rev it up it back fires on the deceleration. Any ideas?????
 
Tonyc1111 said:
So. I found the o ring on the float seat was cracked. I replaced it and stopped the leak. Now it runs with choke on. Then when I turn it off. It sounds like a series of light back fires and dies when I try to let it idle. When I rev it up it back fires on the deceleration. Any ideas?????
Click to expand...

kewl- you've fixed a major issue.

next problem:
air leak maybe? sounds slightly lean at idle. check your clamps; or do you have any vacuum ports missing a cap? I hope the new o-ring doesn't affect the seat height (which would change your float level... maybe lower? leaner?)


also, I am assuming it runs fairly well (?), w/o being choked, at higher RPMs.
 
I messed with the float height. How should I set it? If it's lean do I raise or lower the float? It does run better at higher rpm
 
Tonyc1111 said:
I messed with the float height. How should I set it? If it's lean do I raise or lower the float? It does run better at higher rpm
Click to expand...

If (IF!) the leanness is caused by the by low fuel level height in the float bowl, you adjust the floats to a smaller number usually. This increases the fuel level, increasing the "signal" to the carb. The manual should detail the procedure (sheesh- 6 months with fuel injection and I'm already forgetting carb stuff)

But, really, the needle seat height shouldn't be changed- did you use the right parts? O-ring? not a copper or fiber washer? Compare the new with the old. don't fix one problem by creating two more.

Did you insure that there is not some other source of leanness? Were you working around/adjusting the carb before any of this started?

good luck.

(edit: oh wait, I see- you're saying you adjusted the floats after you re-installed the seat. The best I can tell you is to put them back where they were; weak, I know. And only change one thing at a time, 'specially when you're unfamiliar with a system.)
 
Tonyc1111 said:
Here are my next steps. I'll keep you posted.

Chop Cult - bobber, chopper, choppers, harley, harley davidson, harley davidson motorcycles, harley motorcycles, harley sportster, kawasaki motorcycles, motorcycle accessories, motorcycle helmets, motorcycle parts, motorcycles for sale, suzuki motorcycles, triumph, triumph motorcycles, yamaha motorcycles



HOW-TO: Selecting Idle Jet and Using Fuel Adjuster Screw
Thread: HOW-TO: Selecting Idle Jet and Using Fuel Adjuster Screw
Email:
<whole 2-page litany for butterfly carb tuning snipped>
Click to expand...

dude- stop. seriously.

your bike WAS running fine; the carb doesn't need to be tuned ("ran great for a long time"). 'sides- you have (probably) a Keihin FCR, which is a slide actuated or variable venturi carb and those instructions look like something for a butterfly carb.

(edit: yeah, I looked at the manual and except for a Mikuni on the SMR, they came with Keihins)

you have a minor air leak I'm guessing; find it (did you check everything I listed?). And it sounds like you sprayed the carb with cleaner and it ate your o-ring for the needle seat (again- guessing. carb cleaner can tear up rubber & plastic parts). let's not make a small problem worse.

If you do have a FCR, you're probably in luck- every Japanese off-road bike in the world came with the same basic carb (slight embellishment) for the last 10-15 years. you should be able to find someone who could help in your neighborhood.

get the factory repair manual for your bike too (AKA in the Italian-Husky parlance: WSM) here and download it to your computer/laptop/pad/phone so you have with you.

If you have any questions- pm me and I'll give you my email address.
 
ray_ray said:
--

If the fuel is really flowing out the the over-flow hose, that points right at float level OR something in the needle jet seat... A slower leak drip can be the oRing that sits under the large jet that the needle jet sits in to stop the gas flow... Hope I used the right terms there.

--
Click to expand...

In an attempt to keep this simple information on the straight and narrow for the future in case someone reads it, I've had that Oring go bad on more than 1 bike over time. I do not think I caused it with any spray, but maybe ...That's why I suggested it ... CARBS do get dirty and have to be cleaned ...That was the second thing I suggested. That float height has also been the 3rd or greater fix for my issues. I like CARBS ...they were invented about a century ago I'd guess and lasted till now because they do the job.
 
Shovel head. Thanks for the advice. I am on the road again. The pilot jet was totally clogged. My next issue is the backfire/popping. Should I spray some wd40 around the intake to check for air leaks? Or?
The clutch also seems to slip. Too much oil?!is there an adjustment? I replaced the stock space cylinder with the 7602. I also added the twin air oil cooler.
 
Tonyc1111 said:
...The pilot jet was totally clogged.
Click to expand...

That makes sense. it would make it lean at idle and hard to start w/o a choke.

before you try to hunt down the backfire... confirm it is still there. The pilot jet should've helped.

btw, turn the fuel petcock off whenever you stop for more than a quick break... get in that habit- it'll save you from having to clean the "varnish" out of your carb.
 
Tonyc1111 said:
Shovel head. Thanks for the advice. I am on the road again.
Click to expand...
no problem- but I will point out that ray_ray nailed it from the start. Not only was I echoing what he was saying (fix the overflow leak first) but the cause of a flooding carb is almost always from a particulate between the needle and the seat; it's much rarer for a leak that big to be from a suddenly failed o-ring... which he called.

Tonyc1111 said:
Shovel head. Thanks for the advice. I am on the road again. The pilot jet was totally clogged. My next issue is the backfire/popping. Should I spray some wd40 around the intake to check for air leaks? Or?
The clutch also seems to slip. Too much oil?!is there an adjustment? I replaced the stock space cylinder with the 7602. I also added the twin air oil cooler.
Click to expand...

ok, you're still having the backfire issue. let's work on that.... and why don'cha open another thread for the clutch (which, if the slipping is new AND you haven't done any mods recently, might be a deal-killer for the Sheet Iron) (...wait! when you say "space cylinder" do you mean the clutch slave cylinder!? if so, reinstall the old one, & if that solves the slipping, we'll fix it after your ride)

you need to start tackling problems one step at a time, one problem at a time. you're getting yourself too spread out w/o the necessary expertise to multi-task.

so, in my next post let's talk about the backfire problem...
 
yes, you can hunt down air leaks with WD-40 (it's basically 60% naphtha [white gas] and about 35%(?) paraffin [a light-light kerosene], and some other stuff I've never figgered out [no, not fish oil])

but let's back up and get some history first. Had your bike been running good before all this started? ...or was it sitting for months? you said you drained the carb and the tank (good- but why?).

if you had a clogged pilot, I'd be inclined to think there's more varnish in there and other orifices (and this is what carb cleaner is for- spraying or soaking brass, aluminum, steel parts (not plastic, rubber) to dissolve the solids precipitated out of evaporated gasoline. This happens when you leave the petcock open and let the bike sit in the heat for some time). If you start spraying, use eye protection. seriously. this is another point ray_ray made.

varnish: that is to say, if your pilot clog wasn't from particulates or god-forbid.... rubber from the o-ring.

so: any clues or history you can give us?
 
It ran fine for some time. It has sat for some time and probably with the pet cock open. How many jets are there? I'm going to by a new pilot jet today. Should I consider buying any other jets?
 
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