• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Help W/ A 1979 250 Wr

L

Les Delinski

Husqvarna
C:\Users\les\Pictures\husky\Before-existing\img 9091
IMG_9091.JPGIMG_9112.JPG I'm a new member, having just "inherited" a 1979 250WR. It's in rough shape, but it's basically sound and complete. I hope to restore it to some as yet un-determined degree. I'm hoping a few folks on here have experience with this or similar models, and can answer my questions now and then; and also offer sage advice to help me avoid bonehead mistakes as this project progresses. The frame # is MM07094; and engine is 2066 - 2225. Motoplat ignition. I was a M/C mechanic for about 7 years back during the '70's bike boom. I was factory-trained for Hondas, and had some limited, long forgotten experience with Bultacos and CZs. My first questions are:
1. Is the frame and swing arm chrome-moly? Mine needs welding/repairs.
2. Where can I download a manual for this engine and/or bike?
3. Is this bike a 6 speed?
4. Is anyone familiar with the kickstarter problems inherent to this engine; and the required repairs?
5. Are the side panels on the tank chrome, or just polished? What's the correct path toward restoring the tank? (It's rusty, but no dents)
6. Care and cleaning of the Motoplat ignition system; and how to time it.
Thanks in advance for your responses.

Les Delinski
 
Looks like you have a good base for a start Les.
#1 Yes, frame are Swedish chrome moly.
#2 There are a few places on t'interweb to download free. There is a FB page that has them. Can't remember which one.
#3 Yes, 6 speed.
#4 What is the problem with the kick start ?
#5 That is a WR tank. The whole tank is chromed, and then painted leaving the chrome in the panels either side.
#6 The Motoplats are getting old now. I would replace it with a modern system. Visiteur48 on here posted the test values for the Motoplat. Do a search and check yours out. It may test as ok, but the real test is "will it start when it's hot" ??

Good luck with the rebuild. Make sure you keep posting pics as you go. There is a huge amount of experience and help on this site.
 
HVA factory have the manuals, download the parts manual so you can print it out for the workshop. the bolt lengths noted in the manual are invaluable when reassembling.
As mr G said, check out Claudes posts, search for visiteur48 wr resto, he does a great job and knows the bikes inside and out. you can PM him for any details he is a nice guy and always helpfull. Phil at husqvarnaparts.com will be your friend. email him if you cant see what you want. HVA Factory is the other go to spares dept as is Tri trophy on fleabay. All bearings are skf so you can grab em down at most bearing shops. get the camera out and photo every little thing as you tear it down. great for reassembly. The kickers are designed to stay in the case when you take the case off. the bump stop effectively holds the spring tension and keeps the pall in the right spot. if you take the kicker lever off, the spring unwinds suddenly and you are presented with an exploded parts diagram inside:eek: . Everyone does a kicker reassembly once!:mad: Enjoy the build and post plenty pics here in the resto section...:thumbsup:
 
The shocks look like Progressives as they look to be much newer than the bike itself. Just so that you know, the original shocks on that would likely have been remote reservoir Ohlins. Those are to die for as they are scarce and expensive to get a pair to have rebuilt. The front forks look to be from a CR as it looks like 12"travel in the front end and the front is too high and the shocks may be too short as there is not enough clearance under the rear fender for a WR
 
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