• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

125-200cc Humiliating Loss of Spark--'08 CR125

Thanks for the coil readings. My primary was at 0.4-0.5 Ohms, and the secondary was 10k Ohms, so it looks like the coil is fine.

I checked AC Volts coming out of the stator and got 2.5 volts with a swift kick and the plug out. The lighting leads out of the stator gave me close to 4 volts AC. I suppose I was expecting 12 volts, but that may just be my battery bias. What voltage should I get from a good kick?

I also checked the pulse pickup thingee, and I was getting just a tiny voltage with each kick. Maybe 0.1 volts AC
 
dfeckel;42626 said:
Thanks for the coil readings. My primary was at 0.4-0.5 Ohms, and the secondary was 10k Ohms, so it looks like the coil is fine.

I checked AC Volts coming out of the stator and got 2.5 volts with a swift kick and the plug out. The lighting leads out of the stator gave me close to 4 volts AC. I suppose I was expecting 12 volts, but that may just be my battery bias. What voltage should I get from a good kick?

I also checked the pulse pickup thingee, and I was getting just a tiny voltage with each kick. Maybe 0.1 volts AC


Hmm....my OEM CR stator pumps out an easy AC 12V with a swift kick...check all the wires one by one for short to ground....

also the paired wires blk/red and red/wht...have no continuity to the other pair(trigger) of wires...grn and red...check that too

switch your meter over to m/v to check the impulse trigger...( I sound like scotty on star trek:busted:)....

did you get the proper continuity readings from the stator and trigger..?? yours wont be the same as mine..cause you beefed yours up.....

I had a suspicion that with increased juice you may have popped the B box.....but it looks like the stator is the culprit:thinking:

and no short to grnd on the kill wire right..??(Blk/yel to gound)
 
I'm at work right now, I'll have to check resistance/continuity on the trigger and stator when I get home.

I've ruled out the kill switch--I've disconnected it and still no spark.

Troy, thanks for all your input. I really appreciate it.
 
I zipped home and took a couple more readings.

Moose stator 7 Ohms
Moose lighting leads 1.5 Ohms
Trigger 82 Ohms

Stock Stator 27 Ohms
Stock trigger 82 Ohms

Seems a pretty big discrepancy between the Moose stator and the stocker. I think I'll put the stocker back in and see what happens.
 
dfeckel;42646 said:
I zipped home and took a couple more readings.

Moose stator 7 Ohms
Moose lighting leads 1.5 Ohms
Trigger 82 Ohms

Stock Stator 27 Ohms
Stock trigger 82 Ohms

Seems a pretty big discrepancy between the Moose stator and the stocker. I think I'll put the stocker back in and see what happens.


Mike at ricky stator can rewind the stock one and get about 35 watts cost about 100 dallars www.rickystator.com
 
Rickystator, here I come!

I went home for a long lunch today and put the stocker back on. Bench test: Hot, blue spark. Driveway test: running first kick.

Verdict: Bad stator (or, more likely, angry motorcycle gods due to the matter/antimatter mixture that was my Husky/ KTM hybrid.:))

So, I'll be sending the stocker out for a lighting coil winding job, and then I'll be back to lighting up the trail. I might send the KTM stator to rickystator, too, to find out what went wrong.
 
Pffft! I KNEW it! Pumpkin Patch Parts! I'm surprised the Italian God of Motorcycle Purity didn't swoop down from the heavens and take you out for such blasphemy! :D
 
Motosportz;42868 said:
In reality both stators come from Kokasan (spelling?) and are Japanese so nether is a European part.
Doesn't matter, the evil spirits were injected into the part when it arrived at the Pumpkin Patch! ;)
 
Fran Bottone said in 20+ years he's only had one Kokusan stator fail on a KTM, never had a Husky one fail and never had a Moose one fail on a CR125.
 
Motosportz;42868 said:
In reality both stators come from Kokasan (spelling?) and are Japanese so nether is a European part.

thats the problem right there ... gotta swear at it in japanese!
Not Italian or Austrian
 
Norman Foley;42917 said:
Fran Bottone said in 20+ years he's only had one Kokusan stator fail on a KTM, never had a Husky one fail and never had a Moose one fail on a CR125.

The Moose stator box says one year warranty, I just might try to return it for a new one. Of course, they're going to see this thing with all the original connectors removed and spliced/soldered wires on it and cry foul, most likely. I wasn't exactly using it as intended, after all. I still think the swap is a really elegant way to get lights on a CR. I just wish it had worked better for me.

Now that I think back on it a little, the bike was kind of hard to start as soon as I put the Moose stator in, so I wonder if it ever put out the kind of juice the ignition needed. It may have come to me faulty.

Hey, Norman! I'm looking forward to meeting you at the Speedsville Enduro in two weeks--I'm getting there late Saturday night. I'll look for you on Sunday!
 
I'm looking foward to meeting you at Speedsville. I'll be there with my white Sprinter, with my name on the sides. The run is going to be a good one!:cheers:
 
dfeckel;42819 said:
Rickystator, here I come!

I went home for a long lunch today and put the stocker back on. Bench test: Hot, blue spark. Driveway test: running first kick.

Verdict: Bad stator (or, more likely, angry motorcycle gods due to the matter/antimatter mixture that was my Husky/ KTM hybrid.:))

So, I'll be sending the stocker out for a lighting coil winding job, and then I'll be back to lighting up the trail. I might send the KTM stator to rickystator, too, to find out what went wrong.

The stators are built up with solid core copper wire that has a plastic varnish applied to it..these are then wrapped around the poles of the stator...

the varnish keeps the wires from actually making contact with eachother....the more wraps the more resistance (and output)

if the stock stator is 25 ohms..then an uprated one will have a higher resistance( more wire length= more res.).... for the moose one I would hate to hazard to guess...but it could be three times that...??

less resistance indicated a shorted stator....either there was physical damage...poor manufacturing ..or at some point there was a short to ground somewhere else that melted the varnish off some of the internal windings and allowed for unintentional contact in the stator winding....eliminating or shorting of some of the wraps....giving lower resistance..that explains your 7 ohm measurement

if there is no obvious physical damage...then give it a sniff....a burnt smell gives a clue
 
Back
Top