• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Husky Genuine Rear Rack

I think I understand what's going on with that Borrego Rack...the parts I was referring to bend down to the mounting points. I was thinking that more of it went under the fender and crossed over to the other side for more rigidity.

Thanks for the heads up on the weak subframe! That was one of the first things I Google'd when researching the 630. I've seen your mods and love your ingenuity. It seems like you love your 630. You all have certainly done your homework!

So...I have a laser cutter at work that could cut your plate out for me if you just so happened to have a CAD file or even the flat pattern and some precise dimensions? I could cut a bunch if you think people would want them...? I can powder coat them too!

But I wonder...since I can cut any shape with the laser, wouldn't cutting a gusset pattern (same material thickness) that runs the entire underside length of the rear sub frame...be the most support?

Weld all that up, and powder coat it gloss white for s&g's :p!

I haven't taken the bike apart yet so I don't even know if that idea is possible...

I really need to make this subframe as strong as possible. Living off the bike, my wife and I tend to shop on the heavy side..not to mention when I go camping off the bike for some epic single track up in Mendo. :doh:

OBVIOUSLY...I WON'T BE ABLE TO DO THIS ANYMORE!

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Sounds like you should be looking at the TCI Outback Rack. It has a rear crossbar and supports going to the rear footpegs. CJ's frame supports and the Outback give you lots of luggage options.

I'm pretty much ready for 15 days on the bike in CO, UT, ID, MT, and WY this Sept.

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GeekVenture said:
>snip

So...I have a laser cutter at work that could cut your plate out for me if you just so happened to have a CAD file or even the flat pattern and some precise dimensions? I could cut a bunch if you think people would want them...? I can powder coat them too!

But I wonder...since I can cut any shape with the laser, wouldn't cutting a gusset pattern (same material thickness) that runs the entire underside length of the rear sub frame...be the most support?

>snip
Click to expand...

Full size patterns are in a PDF posted in the subframe thread. Download and print on 14" paper.
Each set should be marked on the bike and drilled for best fit. They were a hand-made and fitted, no cad drawing. This is shade-tree mechanic stuff. LOL.

Cutting gussets and welding is a better alternative, I just didn't want to deal with all that so I came up with the 5/16" 6061 plates. For 5500 tough offroad miles they've been fine for me.

There aren't enough new bikes or owners to warrant any kind of production. Those that needed or wanted something have pretty much been done around the globe. Seat Concepts is selling some kind of knock-off. Tom at TCI was going to come up with something but not sure if he ever did.

No real need for powdercoating, they are more or less hidden. Besides, as mentioned, they really should be marked and drilled for mounting on the bike. I guess if you got more precise then you could create a cutting pattern with the mounting holes.
 
Where did you get that frame anchor for you upper mount point?
What kind of weight do you think you could put in a top mount with your braces? With gussets?

My fear is that the frame will just split at the next weakest point up the frame.
I can only image how inconvenient that place might be to repair.

Tangent question: What's up with the manuals suggestion for chain tension. When I followed the instructions and gapped .47" the chain was so tight it would rub on the upper plastic slide inside the chain cage had i not noticed.

Can someone with original gearing (15/42) take a picture of their swingarm adjustment ruler so I can see where it should be?
 
All of the details of how-to-do-it are in the thread, it's very detailed both by me and then several other members. The front mount point is the strap from the passenger peg bracket, many of us either removed the passenger pegs or sourced another set of strap-bracket thingies. Otherwise I'm not sure about 'upper mount point' - the back of the plates are bolted to the passenger grab handle mounting points.

As far as strength, I've run a 1-1/2gl kolpin pack on the Borrego rack plus a 35L ortlieb bag that probly weighs another 10-15lbs, or a wolfman rolie with tools and spares that's about 15lbs. Total easily 30-35lbs over all manner of terrain.

The next point of concern becomes the lower mounting bolts for the subframe - they should NOT be hardened bolts (grade 8+) but should be kept tight and replaced if they bend. Same for foot peg bracket bolts - regular grade but make sure they're torqued to spec and loctited.

If the subframe "splits" somewhere else after all that you have bigger problems. Worst case you simply remove it entirely, which is not that hard, and have it welded. A replacement might be hard to source and rather expensive. It is aluminum to save weight, but was never designed to haul gear - the factory rack has a max load rating of 8lbs I believe.

Most of us replaced the front sprocket with a 14 and that seems to suit the bike perfectly for dualsport use. Some went a little lower that rode all dirt trails, like 44-45 on the back. Chain tension is loosey-goosey - half inch of play is not nearly enough, more like inch and a half. Better a little loose that too tight. Compress the rear suspension a couple of inches to check tension.The axle marks are going to be a bit different on each bike - a picture of someone elses is not going to help you. BTW, it always rubs on the upper glide - that's just how most bikes are. After a bazillion miles you replace it. It takes a LONG time to wear out.

All of these questions have been discussed and answered ad infinitem in the threads here. Would benefit you greatly to read through them. You can also use google search with [site:cafehusky.com] in the search term - will bring up results on this site specifically.
 
First of all...thank you for all the time your taking to help me set my new Italian Stallion up. I really appreciate your help.

So... Mike Kochevar (Fast1) has the original Wolfman rack ($290) and a new Power Commander V ($235) for sale.

OK...the Power C...that's a lot of money. Besides, is the PC V really worth it...or should I just iBeat-it to DynoBobs settings.

Second...I know the Wolfman rack isn't available anymore, but is it worth $290 if you spent $219 and got bags with your Dirtbags purchase!

O yeah...how do I know he's legit?

Sidenote:

I already have 800 miles on her commuting 75.5mi 5 days a week. I'm a little bit worried about breaking her in on the highway with a possible lean gas situation because I haven't iBeated it yet. I seems ok and I can actually smell a little fuel but maybe that's just cause the cats are gone now. I'm trying to fluctuate my speed and I'm averaging 41.9mpg going 65-78 (15T). Oil is already synthetic! (mistake by previous owner) Next change @ 1K? Next service? I have a 23 month transferable warranty that came with her and I need to follow scheduled services by an "authorized dealer".

I just hope she lasts like my buddies G650Xs' Rotax motor!

 

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Mike's a good guy, he won't steer you wrong. I've sold him a tire and cut subframe plates for him. He's a pretty handy guy so I'm not sure why he didn't/couldn't pull that off. LOL.

The wolfman racks are very nice, sturdy, very well made. I personally think with the expedition bags on they're kind of wide, but it's a sturdy and waterproof setup.
I have Dirtbagz and they are not nearly as substantial - the bars will bend if you lay the bike down. but they bend back, are lightweight, easy to remove, and much narrower. Plus they are half the price which I like because I'm a cheap bastid. :) I have at least a couple of thousand offroad miles with them and they've been just fine. Dirtbagz are not waterproof which has not been an issue for me in so-Cal. When it rains I stay home. LOL.

Doing it over again I would get a Giant Loop Coyote and keep the Borrego rack for a fuel pack. I like to haul water in a dromedary bag in a rolie bag on top of the fuel pax. I may still get a coyote as it looks like I'm keeping the bike at least awhile longer. There's nothing like it out there. Well, maybe a 690, but twice the $$ and more trouble than their worth.

I don't know enough about the power commander to say. I would PM DynoBob. Seems to me after all the testing and dyno work and all the ways to tune these things, the iBeat was the cheapest and easiest.

Synthetic oil won't hurt the bike - can make seating rings take longer. Just keep an eye on oil consumption, it should be nill anyway. Most of us like to run a dyno oil for a thousand miles or so and then switch to make sure the oil rings seat well. I just don't think it's an issue. And you don't have to have a 'dealer' do your maintenance to keep a warranty in force, you just have to follow the manufacturers recommended maintenance specifications. Hiflo or K&N oil filters are cheap and easy to come by. There was an updated version for this bike, make sure you get the right one. HF563 on the hiflo if memory serves.

If the power-up has been done to the bike it will run fine, just not make the kind of power it will with a proper tune. It won't hurt it any, they just tend to run lean over about 5K rpm. It will start easier and run stronger once you decide on a tune method and get it done. If the O2 sensor is still in and connected then get a PU and at least do that -sooner rather than later. Stock - as built - they are WAY too lean. I bought my PU kit from the dealer when I bought the bike new, and put it on the bike before it was started.

As far as longevity, I doubt they will keep up with the BMW/Rotax mill. Those things are bulletproof. I just don't know of any of the huskys with over 50K miles on them. Seems to me someone posted recently with a rebuild going on at about 50K, barrel was still good but trans gears and shafts were worn. The clutch spring washers need to be replaced by 10K, and keep the countershaft/sprocket mating surface greased as the counter is just held on by a clip and can wobble a bit and wear on the shaft splines. Grease it when you lube the chain. I took the plastic cover/guard off mine, do that on all bikes as a matter of course, just so I can see what's going on in there.
 
GeekVenture said:
First of all...thank you for all the time your taking to help me set my new Italian Stallion up. I really appreciate your help.

So... Mike Kochevar (Fast1) has the original Wolfman rack ($290) and a new Power Commander V ($235) for sale.

O yeah...how do I know he's legit?
Click to expand...

He's legit.

PCV, iBeat, JD Tuner all different ways to skin the cat. My thoughts are on the dyno thread.


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DynoBob, sounds like you are planning a ride similar to the one FabOneUp and I are going to do, except we will be on Terras. Heart of the West; CO, UT, NV, ID, MT, WY., second week of Sept. Have a great time and if you see a couple of loaded Terras out there it will be us!

K
 
Kenneth Webb said:
I will work up our schedule and see if there are any intersections possible.

K
Click to expand...
Going to be in the area myself week of sept 24th. I'll be on the 630 and a friend on his FJR. We're leaving Alberta, Canada and hitting WT, or, ca, nv, ut, wy, and mt.
 
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