Husky WR430 1987 - Stick Clutch Question

[HuskyGreg]

After the bike sits for a few days/wweeks the clutch will not release when I pull in the clutch lever. I must break loose the clutch by riding and pull clutch lever in and gas motor in 2nd gear a few times. Once I break loose the clutch all is fine until it sits for a few days. The pressure plate is releasing fine so I believe the plates are sticking. They are the orig plates and clutch performs fine except for this bad habit!!!

Ideas? If I need new plates, please suggest best 87 clutch source.

 

[fran...k.]

I have an 1988 wr 430 which does almost exactly the same thing. It works just fine but even what you are doing won't work you have to put it into gear to break it loose. Maybe I could kick start it in neutral to be sure it works then bump start it but generally I don't have a lot of space where I start out. Mine was in a mild fire and probably got cooked to some degree I had to switch out the altenator. Have you tried washing them in soap and water? I do not recomend lacquer thinner as I have ruined some similar plates trying that. The orgional plates work just fine if you get a new set and use suitable oil which in my case is tractor transmission and hydraulic fluid. I got a set off of ebay the guy listed by number with no application. Different bike though from the one with the similar issue to yours. I won't bet but I think they are sureflex plates. They would be the same as in the 1988 and possibly were used later on in the four stroke models would have to check part numbers. It looks like it takes 8 of the friction plates. verify for yourself on the parts sheets

161440801 CLUTCH PLATE $9.04 $9.04

That is off hall's website but just because you can order them doesn't mean they have them, sometimes things are less $ it is not quite up to bikebandit standards. You don't even see that invalid quantity until you do copy and paste. Ha and the invalid quantity didn't post to this group.

fran

 

[lankydoug]

A lot of clutches do this after they have sat around for a while, my GasGas did it after sitting for a month. It's a pretty common thing. You can take the clutch apart but you won't find anything wrong with it. My suggestion is ride it more often.

 

[NYWR430]

My 1988 WR430 does the same thing. If it sits for a while, I pull in the clutch lever and squirt oil between the disks through the transmission filler oil hole in the crankcase. You'll need a small screwdriver to gently spread the disks apart.

 

[fran...k.]

I was preparing for chasing after tropies on Sunday and decided to try that screwdriver through the oil fill port on the problem bike. I am not sure what helped more doing that or having it soaking in John deere hy gurad fluid since the spring. No need for any squirting of oil as on the sidestand without any blocks under it the oil level is way up, I think I over filled it. It is kind of tough with the exhaust pipe, the stock one in place but you can push them around and spin the kick lever. Some little chips of fricition material get loose. Revved it up and punched into first and no forward snap or wheel spin. I will have to wait another month and try without doing the screwdriver thing and see if the oil alone made a difference.

 

[1982 XC 430]

I'm curious If You are useing Automotive Oil or Motorcycle specific Oil. This is suposed to be a common problem for automotive Oils as they are not engineered for a Wet Clutch.

 

[Husq.fleet]

I use tractor/hyd oil also in mine as its designed for the shock loads of gears and wet clutches. It cured the problem on my 82 250 but made no difference on my 87 clutched bike. You have to point it downhill and clunk it into gear then rev it through the clutch, then its good until the next time which could be the next day. PIA

 

['87 500XC]

I've used Torco and or Golden spectro for year. When my bikes sit for the winter and aren't touched when I roll them out in the spring the clutch doesn't stick. I'm rebuilding an '87 500XC which hasn't been ridden since '96 and that clutch still works fine.

So not to say it doesn't happen to anyone, but I don't think a clutch should stick together so hard you need to pry it apart with a screw driver. I'd go back and see what kind of oil you're using and if it's the proper brand and grade.

Note that depending on the wet clutch design it may stick a alittle (and I mean a little) from fully engaged to just starting to disengage but by NO means does this mean it's frozen solid and doesn't move.

 

[HuskyGreg]

What weight G Spectro do you use? Or Torco? I have been using Valvoline 50wt in my 430 for gear shock load support for several years but before used good ole 10-40wt penzoil car oil for a decade in all my bikes with no issues except for my 87 picky clutch. I am going to switch oils next change.

I've used Torco and or Golden spectro for year. When my bikes sit for the winter and aren't touched when I roll them out in the spring the clutch doesn't stick. I'm rebuilding an '87 500XC which hasn't been ridden since '96 and that clutch still works fine.

So not to say it doesn't happen to anyone, but I don't think a clutch should stick together so hard you need to pry it apart with a screw driver. I'd go back and see what kind of oil you're using and if it's the proper brand and grade.

Note that depending on the wet clutch design it may stick a alittle (and I mean a little) from fully engaged to just starting to disengage but by NO means does this mean it's frozen solid and doesn't move.

 

[jimspac]

I'm curious If You are useing Automotive Oil or Motorcycle specific Oil. This is suposed to be a common problem for automotive Oils as they are not engineered for a Wet Clutch.

You only need to check the round label on the back of any oil container. If it says "Energy Conserving" in the bottom of the circle, it means the contents have friction modifiers that will ruin wet clutch plates

 

[fran...k.]

You only need to check the round label on the back of any oil container. If it says "Energy Conserving" in the bottom of the circle, it means the contents have friction modifiers that will ruin wet clutch plates

Intresting, I went out and got the amsoil synthetic stuff for my street bike and it says on the back "No friction modifiers for outstanding wet clutch performance" The mobil 1 red cap=15W-50 I use in the four stroke 510 has an empty bottom half of that circle. It (the bottle of oil) may be a few years old by now but that bike sat for years and has never had clutch issues like this thread. The formula shell for the pickup truck I have a box full of does say energy conserving in the bottom of that circle.

edit 6 PM It seems my problem clutch has been fixed with the hy guard fluid and never removing the cover.

 

[mjb0724]

After the bike sits for a few days/wweeks the clutch will not release when I pull in the clutch lever. I must break loose the clutch by riding and pull clutch lever in and gas motor in 2nd gear a few times. Once I break loose the clutch all is fine until it sits for a few days. The pressure plate is releasing fine so I believe the plates are sticking. They are the orig plates and clutch performs fine except for this bad habit!!!

Ideas? If I need new plates, please suggest best 87 clutch source.

get rid of the aluminum discs and use steel ones instead.

 

[silverstreakNZ]

I changed to atf and the problem disappeared

 

[mjb0724]

get rid of the aluminum discs and use steel ones instead.

amen !