• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

I screwed up, big time - Terra Cylinder/bore Kit

etotore said:
I would check the amount of metal, stuck to the draining plug.
Click to expand...


Definitely do that. If there are flakes and they have a coppery/golden colour there's damage to bearings (most likely either crank shaft or piston bearings). If the flakes are silvery it is probably piston rings or cylinder damage. If there's no flakes you're probably lucky.
When doing the work, getting the engine out and back into the bike is actually the biggest part of the job. The engine itself is relatively easy to work on (I know from experience :()
When the cylinder is off the bearings can both be checked for (up&down) play. No need to split the crank unless there's play on the crank shaft bearing.
 
duibhceK said:
Definitely do that. If there are flakes and they have a coppery/golden colour there's damage to bearings (most likely either crank shaft or piston bearings). If the flakes are silvery it is probably piston rings or cylinder damage. If there's no flakes you're probably lucky.
When doing the work, getting the engine out and back into the bike is actually the biggest part of the job. The engine itself is relatively easy to work on (I know from experience :()
When the cylinder is off the bearings can both be checked for (up&down) play. No need to split the crank unless there's play on the crank shaft bearing.
Click to expand...
Are you back? How did the rebuild go? I've been reading your travel blog - AWESOME!
 
sussurf said:
Are you back? How did the rebuild go? I've been reading your travel blog - AWESOME!
Click to expand...


Thanks! We're back since last weekend. The blog unfortunately is lagging waaaaaayyy behind.
The rebuild went fairly smoothly. The guys from the workshop in Tehran did an amazing job at improving a solution for the crank shaft pin (it involves needle bearings from a massive mining excavator, long story). That got us back to Bulgaria, but the valves were a bit noisy and it lacked top end power. So I replaced the entire bottom end myself (found thanks to the help from this forum) and used new oem gaskets, which solved most of the problems.
Still one issue remains: sometimes the bike decides to stick to 3000RPM when I cut the throttle. It doesn't always do that and I still need to figure out the cause. On my wife's bike there's an electrical short somewhere that causes the dash to go bonkers and an EWS sometimes when there is stress on the tank (like sitting at the very front of the seat). I'll take apart the entire wiring loom over winter, but I strongly suspect the ABS wiring or ABS unit.
Other than that after 30000+km in 5 months the chains and front tyres are now totally shot.

Am considering getting another TR650 and use my current one for spare parts. It still runs and I'm sure I can solve the remaining issue, but given the troubles we had getting parts on short notice I think having my on stash of spares makes sense. Don't want to replace it with anything else as I still love riding it and there really is nothing that compares to it. Everything I can think of is either heavier, much more expensive or less powerful. They are hard to find in this part of the world though.
 
Not a bad idea! Your trip sounded like a hoot!
How would you comment on the performance of the Hyperpro rear shock compared to the stock one? Can you see it would be possible to mount the remote adjuster/reservoir somewhere on the bike without pannier racks?
 
etotore said:
2.5l of oil could be the problem,, she should need 2l on a normal oil shift change, when you change oil-filter too.
Over filling can give compression problems, been there done that with a straight 6 cylinder car.

It's a weird way to check oil levels on the bike, so overfilling is my worry too.

From the manual

The oil level must be checked with the vehicle in vertical
position on a flat surface.
- Start the motorcycle and heat the engine until the
cooling fan starts; wait for another 3 minutes and
switch off the engine.
- Check the level as follows:
- Undo the cap (1) with the dipstick (2) and remove
it from the frame.
- Clean the dipstick (2) with a cloth.
- Place the dipstick (2) in the hole (3) without
screwing the cap on.
- Remove the dipstick (2) from the hole (3) and
check that the level is between the two MIN and
MAX marks.

I would check the amount of metal, stuck to the draining plug.

Technical Manual saya
Oil and oil flter replacement.................................................................... 0,44 Imp. Gall. / 0,528 U.S. Gall. / 2.0 l
Topping up oil between minimum and max. level................................. 0,055 Imp. Gall. / 0,066 U.S. Gall. / l 0.25

Maybe your lucky..
Click to expand...



Thanks for the tip. Sadly this is all after the fact. As it is, my bike has a very rough engine nock so i don't want to ride it or even turn it on anymore. Putting that much oil in was after the problem not the cause of it. So I'm certain it did run out of oil, i'll be heading up to the mechanics in a week or so to find out for good.
 
sussurf said:
Not a bad idea! Your trip sounded like a hoot!
How would you comment on the performance of the Hyperpro rear shock compared to the stock one? Can you see it would be possible to mount the remote adjuster/reservoir somewhere on the bike without pannier racks?
Click to expand...


The rear shock was a massive upgrade, would definitely recommend it. Although next time I will go with my gut feeling instead of recommendations and install a sock to keep dirt off better, as I originally wanted to do. Even though the busted seal didn't look like it failed because of dirt, it split following the ring shape nicely, so likely a bad seal.
The remote adjuster can be mounted on the foot peg holders if you don't ride with a pillion, If you do, I think you'd have to fabricate some sort of that attaches to the foot peg holder and keeps the reservoir away from the pillion's feet. You might be able to squeeze it on the inside of the peg holder, It looks like there might be just enough clearance with the swing arm. But it would be very tight.

But let's not hijack a thread about engine troubles any longer with suspension discussions ;)
 
It idles fine, but according to the full throttle. Because its a low oil lock up it'll need new cam chain, crank, piston and rods and maybe even a new cylinder. All totalling just under 6000.
Oh joy...
 
Dustythedingo, sorry to hear about your engine failure, the cost to fix it looks like the cost of a second husky!
If you are considering parting your bike out, I am looking for some parts.
 
DustyTheDingo said:
It idles fine, but according to the full throttle. Because its a low oil lock up it'll need new cam chain, crank, piston and rods and maybe even a new cylinder. All totalling just under 6000.
Oh joy...
Click to expand...


6000!??? 6000 what? Did Australia adopt the Mexican Peso as their national currency or something? Because surely that can't be Aussie Bucks! There can't possibly be that many hours in the job to arrive at that figure. You'd come out better finding another Terra.
 
gullywasher said:
6000!??? 6000 what? Did Australia adopt the Mexican Peso as their national currency or something? Because surely that can't be Aussie Bucks! There can't possibly be that many hours in the job to arrive at that figure. You'd come out better finding another Terra.
Click to expand...

on husqyparts.com the cost of an OEM replacement cylinder is about 2500 euro which converts directly out to about $AU3600. Then expect that the local price will be say 30% higher because the local importers mark them up, and add a 10% tax, you get about $5150 and it doesn't take too many hours labour or gaskets to push that closer to the $AU6000 mark
 
Pierer/KTM originally quoted me 4000EUR (excl. taxes) :eek: for a new TR650 engine after confirming they could not give me a lead time on a new crank shaft. They were apparently unwilling to take a crank shaft out of one of the engines they had in stock. For reference: I paid 4500EUR for the entire bike when new.

After some of my friends working for motorcycle magazines and race teams got in touch with their contacts at Pierer, I was told the price could drop to 2000EUR excl. taxes. But that was too little too late, so I never got a confirmation on that.
 
that's 25556 Polish Zloty or 6190USD (5116 without VAT) for the engine and 1600USD for piston and cylinder. Not particularly cheap.
 
that's 25556 Polish Zloty or 6190USD (5116 without VAT) for the engine and 1600USD for piston and cylinder. Not particularly cheap.
Click to expand...
Yikes, I made the assumption it was in Czech Koruna.

Thanks CarstenB

Still pays to shop around and the price when compared to the GS looks like price gouging or support in name only.
 
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