• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

  • 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Austria - About 2014 & Newer
     TE = 2st Enduro & TC = 2st Cross

TE/TC I wanna change my 4cs to open chamber buy buying a pair

HS507

HS507

Husqvarna
A Class
My axle is the new 2016 husk te300 but the forks for sale are woods revalved for my ride style and weight rating but they are old style larger hub on bottom, how do i make em wirk? New wheel and axle or hub change out??. 500 better than 1100 Stillwell intermediate on my CC fork or Ohiln inserts, any wisdom fellas?
 
Should need nothing but the proper wheel spacers and the correct diameter axle for those forks you are planning on buying.
Unlike many other bikes.
Many of the KTM/Husky wheels are all the same. The wheel spacers ride inside the actual wheels bearings allowing the same rim and hub to fit other models with different sized axles.
If you know what year the forks are just order or get the matching axle and spacers specific to fit the hole on the forks lower lug, your wheel should work, requiring no other modification.
 
If I remeber right there are quite a few companies that convert them to oc forks. May be another option depending on price for the used set
 
Search for Dal Soggio Ray kit. I just received it for 4cs, going in shortly, It's been getting rave reviews as an excellent kit for the 4CS and make them work. CSR sells the kit for 500$ now... prices went up a little since they cant keep them on the shelves.
 
Interesting. I will google it. I bought open chamber revalved for woods and my spring rate for 500
 
Bearin
Big Timmy said:
Should need nothing but the proper wheel spacers and the correct diameter axle for those forks you are planning on buying.
Unlike many other bikes.
Many of the KTM/Husky wheels are all the same. The wheel spacers ride inside the actual wheels bearings allowing the same rim and hub to fit other models with different sized axles.
If you know what year the forks are just order or get the matching axle and spacers specific to fit the hole on the forks lower lug, your wheel should work, requiring no other modification.
Click to expand...
Bearings and seals too because of diameter and spacer collar internal and with 2 outer spacers right?
 
No, you shouldn't need to replace the bearings /seals unless they are bad.

Many years of wheels all use the same bearings. Just the spacers are different for a change in axle diameter.

The OD of the spacers ( if you had both sets sitting in front of you), are the same as the original ones.

You could essentially bore your originals out to the size of the other forks larger axle, when you get that axle. If you have access to a lathe.

For what its worth though you could buy a larger ID set of spacers for less than what your time is worth, because just the ID hole on the wheel spacers will need to be larger to fit the size of the new larger diameter axle you need.

As I said before, the wheels spacers ride down into the ID of the wheels bearings. They are not only stepped to fit down into the ID of those bearings but that steps shoulder bottoms out up against the outer edge of the wheel bearings as well once they are in the wheel. The OD of the spacer rides against the seal. As long as your seals and bearings are good on the wheel, you should be good to go.

The axle doesn't actually come in contact with the wheels bearings as is the case with other common applications. Only the spacers do. The axle passes right through the stepped spacers. A change of spacers allows for a change of axle diameter. Do you get it ?

By just changing the wheel spacers. This allows the wheel, to be able to be used and swapped to several year models of KTM/HUSKY/Husaberg's.

The spacers themselves to do all the necking up or down for the change to different axle sizes of various years. The different ID holes on the spacers allows for multiple axle diameters to be used on the same wheel, by just swapping the spacers.
 
I had the opposite issue. I was trying to run my 2015 wheels (since they were built aftemarket Talons) on my 2016 forks and axel. I swapped the bearing and seals off the 2016 wheel and found some washer stacks (in lieu of spacers) that came close to fill the void between the bearing seal and the forks. From what I remember the spacing wasn't even on both sides to make the rotor line up with the caliper. Anyways I ran it for a couple hundred miles. The washers got bevelled out pretty good from the beating. I think warp 9 can make the proper spacers if they dont already.
 
Husq-a-daygo said:
I had the opposite issue. I was trying to run my 2015 wheels (since they were built aftemarket Talons) on my 2016 forks and axel. I swapped the bearing and seals off the 2016 wheel and found some washer stacks (in lieu of spacers) that came close to fill the void between the bearing seal and the forks. From what I remember the spacing wasn't even on both sides to make the rotor line up with the caliper. Anyways I ran it for a couple hundred miles. The washers got bevelled out pretty good from the beating. I think warp 9 can make the proper spacers if they dont already.
Click to expand...
Im just buying OEM spacers and axle. Found used axle for 37 and spacers are 26 new
 
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