As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.
When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.
Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.
Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.
Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.
Thanks for your patience and support!
+1 on that, my dealer (Bill at BMP) installed reed block gaskets on both sides of the reeds because so many of the 250-300 WRs had problems with leakage. Its a cheap fix and I think a Honda uses the same gaskets so they are easy to get if you don't have a nearby Husky dealer.Check for air leaks. I am much leaner than you at sea level. Mine has never overheated.
Oh the joys of living in a small town. The nearest Husky dealer is 200+ miles away but don't seem to stock many of the Husky parts. I called the 2 Honda dealers in the area and no luck. I'm assuming I can test it for leaks by spraying some carb cleaner around the boot when it's running?+1 on that, my dealer (Bill at BMP) installed reed block gaskets on both sides of the reeds because so many of the 250-300 WRs had problems with leakage. Its a cheap fix and I think a Honda uses the same gaskets so they are easy to get if you don't have a nearby Husky dealer.
That should work but I would get the gaskets and do it anyway for cheap insurance. If it leaked in the future it could cost you a top end.Oh the joys of living in a small town. The nearest Husky dealer is 200+ miles away but don't seem to stock many of the Husky parts. I called the 2 Honda dealers in the area and no luck. I'm assuming I can test it for leaks by spraying some carb cleaner around the boot when it's running?
I'll have to do that. I put a 50 pilot in it today and it felt like a different bike. Last week I was really struggling going up some hills where you couldn't get much momentum at the bottom. Today they were fairly easy for me, I'm still a squid, though. I let a guy who races an older Yamaha WR250 2 stroke, take it for a ride and he came back with a big grin. He told me the jetting seemed perfect and that he absolutely loved the engine. He didn't think a more perfect engine could be made. It was still running hot on me. But I'm probably 255 lbs. in gear and there were a lot of uphill sections where I was just chugging up in first. I am running 50/50 coolant and was told to use Engine Ice.That should work but I would get the gaskets and do it anyway for cheap insurance. If it leaked in the future it could cost you a top end.
HELP! soooo fustrated with my 300's jetting.I have read every page!...I ride 3000-7000ft...bike ran well duirng 50F ...JD's PWK 38AS,40pj170mj a/s out 1.5.....then it got really hot out and its a dog on top- it cuts out like it fuel starved but it isn't,i think its rich stumble! it will not rev-out....i have the red needle on the top clip,170mj/38pj /as 1.75......do i need to got to 160mj? 165? anybody else have a 300 and live in the idaho panhandle? washington? similar heat & elevation?
At 76ft absl a 460 was to rich for my 09 wr 250.If that helps ya any.Anyone have a good recommendation for a main jet on a 2012 WR250 for Supermoto? I'm guessing I need a lot more gas when I hit the main as its getting fairly hot if i stay on the main for any period of time with my current woods setup
A richer needle allows more fuel so ,at idle you should turn your air screw out more to compensate for more fuel.To big of a needle diameter will let less fuel in and more air causing high idle(lean).Thought those pwk a/s were hassle free?I wonder if anybody here has seen this problem before. I have the PWK A/S I ran the bike with a DEK needle in the number 1 clip position. It ran very strong mid/top but seems to have a lean bog around 1/4 throttle the pilot is a 45. I put a CGJ needle in which is one step richer needle diameter. The problem now is that I had to turn the idle screw in to get it to idle. Will too big of a needle diameter cause this? Should I go back to the DEK and try a bigger pilot? Thanks!
A richer needle allows more fuel so ,at idle you should turn your air screw out more to compensate for more fuel.To big of a needle diameter will let less fuel in and more air causing high idle(lean).Thought those pwk a/s were hassle free?
sounds like its flooding itself.What pilot is in it?I would try between a 30 and 35 to start with and putmthe needle in the middle.Question:was the carb cleaned before it was installed?I beleave the pilot air circuit controlls the idle and the needle takes over at about 1/8 to 1/4 throttle.Haha! Well I bought the carb used on ebay and am trying to figure out the jetting without resorting to a JD kit. I was under the impression that the pilot jet/air screw alone controlled the idle, but like I said I now had to crank the idle screw all the way in to get the engine to idle. So I'm wondering if a too rich diameter will cause this?