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Hi everyone,
As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.
When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.
Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.
Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.
Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.
Thanks for your patience and support!
All 2st Jetting Chat - Need Help? Post Your Questions Here
- Thread starter Johnnymannen
- Start date
ohmygewd
Husqvarna
Pro Class
My 360 is in bits at the moment whilst l'm transferring the motor over to a 250 frame but l will post pic's when it's completed.
ohmygewd
Husqvarna
Pro Class
Check the google doc's link in this sticky http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/new-and-improved-2-stroke-jetting-database.27395/
great place to start testing your jetting against what's reported.
As far as TM settings, maybe some of the other members can guide you as l can't remember if jets and needles are interchangeable between the two but float height is critical on Mikuni's.
Is that the same as a TMX? If so, my 1999 WR125 is running 400 main and a 35 pilot stock. I just dropped to a 30 pilot to try out. Plug is dark with the 35, runs good, dead off the very bottom but comes on hard with a tap of clutch and runs out well. With the 30 it idles super smooth and I think the power starts a few hundred RPM sooner, got to get it to the track to really get a feel for it.
PC pipe/silencer.
Hello folks,
I am wondering if anyone can offer me some advise on getting a new to me 2001 CR (WB165) sorted as far as jetting...
First off, I am running around 2-3k ft and I am running premium ethanol free with 32:1 Amsoil. The bike has a 38mm PWK and doma pipe with PJ silencer, and I am told by Walt that this particular top end is on the higher compression side. The bike came with 45pj, NOZI needle in 4th position and 185mj. I think the pj is happy at 45, airscrew is out 1 turn and it idles fine. The only problem is that it only wants to start with the perfect blip of throttle once it is hot - and it sometimes takes a good 10 kicks or so (with the high compression, it is not an easy kick and doesn't like to bump start.) I always thought that if a bike wanted throttle at hot start, it was slightly rich???
Anyway, I tried a 42 jet and that was just a bit lean with the airscrew out 1/2 turn. The rps were hunting around when it got warm at idle.
On the mid range, I feel like the bike stumbles a little around 1/4 throttle, then pulls nice and strong up to 3/4. I have the clip all the down on the NOZI and think that it if it was tapered a bit lower it would work better. Any suggestions on needle?
On the top end, WOT seems flat to me. I put in a new plug and did a chop test (my first time ever, I think I did it right) The porcelain was still perfectly white and the electrode had a whitish deposit. I'm going with it is pretty lean on top.
The next jet size is 188...think that is enough? Also, will that also effect my midrange, or do I need to step that up too?
Thanks for your time, Thanks a bunch for your help!
I am wondering if anyone can offer me some advise on getting a new to me 2001 CR (WB165) sorted as far as jetting...
First off, I am running around 2-3k ft and I am running premium ethanol free with 32:1 Amsoil. The bike has a 38mm PWK and doma pipe with PJ silencer, and I am told by Walt that this particular top end is on the higher compression side. The bike came with 45pj, NOZI needle in 4th position and 185mj. I think the pj is happy at 45, airscrew is out 1 turn and it idles fine. The only problem is that it only wants to start with the perfect blip of throttle once it is hot - and it sometimes takes a good 10 kicks or so (with the high compression, it is not an easy kick and doesn't like to bump start.) I always thought that if a bike wanted throttle at hot start, it was slightly rich???
Anyway, I tried a 42 jet and that was just a bit lean with the airscrew out 1/2 turn. The rps were hunting around when it got warm at idle.
On the mid range, I feel like the bike stumbles a little around 1/4 throttle, then pulls nice and strong up to 3/4. I have the clip all the down on the NOZI and think that it if it was tapered a bit lower it would work better. Any suggestions on needle?
On the top end, WOT seems flat to me. I put in a new plug and did a chop test (my first time ever, I think I did it right) The porcelain was still perfectly white and the electrode had a whitish deposit. I'm going with it is pretty lean on top.
The next jet size is 188...think that is enough? Also, will that also effect my midrange, or do I need to step that up too?
Thanks for your time, Thanks a bunch for your help!
Kyle Tarry
Husqvarna
Pro Class
Hoping you guys could help me diagnose a slight jetting issue I'm having.
Bike: 2012 WR300, stock motor, FMF pipe, stock silencer.
Conditions: Sea level to ~2000 feet, 70-90 deg F
Carb: 38mm Keihin PWK AS (JD kit). 410 main, JD red needle on clip 2, stock JD pilot (45?), AS ~2 turns out
The problem I am having is a slight "burble" at light throttle cruise situations. It's most obvious when you're on a road connector between trails, in high gear at very light throttle (like going 40 mph in 5th at about 1/8 throttle or less). It's hard to describe but the bike "burbles" and sort of sounds like it's running under water. As soon as I open up the throttle beyond 1/4 or so, it runs fine. On the trail I don't notice it as much because you don't spend any time down there, but I am sure that it's slowing down my throttle response when I'm trying to blip the front end up on slow technical trails.
Do you guys think this is a problem of being too rich? Should I adjust it with the pilot or the needle? I went from 1.5 to 2 turns on the air screw and it might have made it a bit better but it didn't seem to have a huge impact. Bike idles fine, starts fine cold, starts fine hot (although it starts easier hot if I crack the throttle when kicking it).
Thanks!
Bike: 2012 WR300, stock motor, FMF pipe, stock silencer.
Conditions: Sea level to ~2000 feet, 70-90 deg F
Carb: 38mm Keihin PWK AS (JD kit). 410 main, JD red needle on clip 2, stock JD pilot (45?), AS ~2 turns out
The problem I am having is a slight "burble" at light throttle cruise situations. It's most obvious when you're on a road connector between trails, in high gear at very light throttle (like going 40 mph in 5th at about 1/8 throttle or less). It's hard to describe but the bike "burbles" and sort of sounds like it's running under water. As soon as I open up the throttle beyond 1/4 or so, it runs fine. On the trail I don't notice it as much because you don't spend any time down there, but I am sure that it's slowing down my throttle response when I'm trying to blip the front end up on slow technical trails.
Do you guys think this is a problem of being too rich? Should I adjust it with the pilot or the needle? I went from 1.5 to 2 turns on the air screw and it might have made it a bit better but it didn't seem to have a huge impact. Bike idles fine, starts fine cold, starts fine hot (although it starts easier hot if I crack the throttle when kicking it).
Thanks!
lankydoug
Husqvarna
Pro Class
I think you are right that it is rich and you need to go smaller on the pilot.
Kyle Tarry
Husqvarna
Pro Class
Thanks Doug. So, you think it is pilot and not needle, then?
I can try dropping the pilot one size, and seeing if that helps. That's easy enough!
I can try dropping the pilot one size, and seeing if that helps. That's easy enough!
lankydoug
Husqvarna
Pro Class
I would start with the pilot. The needle might be rich too but only do one thing at a time. I prefer to start with the pilot then set the needle and last do the main.
Kyle Tarry
Husqvarna
Pro Class
Fair point, will do.
Do you have any suggestions on how I will know if going down a size on the pilot makes me too lean? I know the "adjust airscrew for high idle" trick, but I'm not sold on that being the best indicator. What else should I look for?
Do you have any suggestions on how I will know if going down a size on the pilot makes me too lean? I know the "adjust airscrew for high idle" trick, but I'm not sold on that being the best indicator. What else should I look for?
Xcuvator
Husqvarna
Pro Class
I think a smaller pilot will clean it up too. If you are too lean on the pilot you will usually get a hanging or slow to return idle.
I had a burble like you describe on my 250 with a 45. I went to a 42, which helped and ended up with a 40.
lankydoug
Husqvarna
Pro Class
If the pilot is lean it will hang idle and you will have to practically close off the air screw (below 1 turn), it can also hesitate when you snap throttle from an idle. When my pilot was one step too lean it was really hard to re-start when warmed up and always took 3-4 kicks.
Kyle Tarry
Husqvarna
Pro Class
Thanks guys. I swapped a 42 in last night (didn't have a 40), and turned the air screw to about 1.5 turns out. Bike fired up and ran fine, still seems to have the burble, although it may be better. I will ride it more this weekend and try adjusting it with the air screw, I should have more room to play now.
Thanks for the help!
Thanks for the help!
lankydoug
Husqvarna
Pro Class
When you get the correct sized pilot you will be able to adjust the idle screw down and lower the slide a bit and still have a strong idle. When the pilot is too rich and you raise the slide to get more air you are getting the needle circuit involved before it should be. (just something to think about while you're figuring things out)
PWK38 idle circuit problems on WR144. Guys, I'm pulling my hair out here. My idle circuit does not seem to be working, or at least not 100%. The bike recently started loading up a lot at low rpms, spooging and smoking more than normal as well as consuming more fuel. I got the bike this past winter, and it has always needed the idle screw turned quite far in so it can idle, at least compared to my 165 with the same carb. I keep leaning out the pilot jet thinking that I must be rich (and getting richer with the warmer weather) but I'm now at a 38pj (from a 42) at sea level and the bike still wont idle without raising the slide quite high. I have sprayed a lot of carb cleaner through the carb, but no effect. I have also tried a 45 pj just for kicks and that doesn't help either, in fact I can't tell the difference. The bike has a JD red needle at the top clip and runs like a banshee once past the idle circuit. Please, let me hear your ideas.
lankydoug
Husqvarna
Pro Class
Float might be getting heavy or needle might be getting worn. A leaking needle and seat will have you chasing your tail on jetting.