All 2st Jetting Chat - Need Help? Post Your Questions Here

[454x]

454X,

For sum reason, Suzuki took those part numbers off. You have to call them. But you need the 6CHY-16-61 needle.
It is one step leaner than the original one I found for the 125's. I have tried all and that's the best one in middle clip position. A lot of your issues are in that carb. The circuit was designed to come on more after 1/4 throttle. That's why it needs change for low circuit. Plus, with front divider your going to pull more air/fuel thru the first 1/2 of carb under the slide and get a boost of low end.

Next time you pull your cyl. Look at inside your cylinder at how rough it is in all the passages. If you go in and clean all those up smooth, match your powervalve shaft cover to the exhaust port, then hold it up against your pipe. There is a lot of stuff not making the exhaust gases exit thru pipe very good. Also, by using the thickest base gasket, you pick up some more mid and upper power, thus moving your port timing a little.
So by doing all the carb stuff and some cylinder work with pipe matching, you should be happy.

The carb has been "RB'ED" just searching for the perfect needle.Low circuit mod done and slide cut from 4 to 5.I will try the thickest base gasket though.

 

[454x]

454X,

For sum reason, Suzuki took those part numbers off. You have to call them. But you need the 6CHY-16-61 needle.
It is one step leaner than the original one I found for the 125's. I have tried all and that's the best one in middle clip position. A lot of your issues are in that carb. The circuit was designed to come on more after 1/4 throttle. That's why it needs change for low circuit. Plus, with front divider your going to pull more air/fuel thru the first 1/2 of carb under the slide and get a boost of low end.

Next time you pull your cyl. Look at inside your cylinder at how rough it is in all the passages. If you go in and clean all those up smooth, match your powervalve shaft cover to the exhaust port, then hold it up against your pipe. There is a lot of stuff not making the exhaust gases exit thru pipe very good. Also, by using the thickest base gasket, you pick up some more mid and upper power, thus moving your port timing a little.
So by doing all the carb stuff and some cylinder work with pipe matching, you should be happy.

finnally found it,the Suzuki part# for 6chy16-61 is 13383-36fs0

 

[454x]

Yep, that's the needle I would try next.

6bfy43-73 is the next richest needle and 6bfy42-73 richer by a half clip. Ordered both plus the 6chy16-61. Let the good times roll.

 

[lankydoug]

6bfy43-73 is the next richest needle and 6bfy42-73 richer by a half clip. Ordered both plus the 6chy16-61. Let the good times roll.

feedback please.

 

[jo360]

"W do you know what easchww". What does that mean? Is that a question?

you have to drink beer before reading posts, i recommend buddweeeissssa.

 

[rockdancer]

I dont even kont what i was trying to say . This is what happens using yor iphone on the train

Ive picked up a 37mm? Keihin PWK s/hand off fleabay so I am going to give that a go

 

[mnnthbx]

Any help I can get from you guys is greatly appriciated....

2013 CR 144. 32.5 pilot, 460 main, 16-62 Suz needle clip #3, AS @ 1.75, RB mikuni carb, Scalvini pipe, 1100' elevation, 75 degrees.....

Until the bike is FULLY warm, there's a bog when whacking the throttle from walking speed. Assuming it was a bit lean, I went to a 460 from a 450 based on research here. No change godd or bad (so I left it in). Took the needle clip to #4 to give it more fuel, and actually created a big bog even when hot. Took it to #2 and the bike seemed to run strongest there, but I could still FORCE a bog to happen. Went back to my original #3, which has no bog when hot, though it feels a little flatter in the mid compared to #2....

Power delivery in general seems great off the bottom (for a small bore), not horrible, but nothing to brag about in the middle, them awesome on top. Perhaps that's the nature of these bikes? Though I've own many dirtbikes, and am comfortable jetting one, this is both my first Husky, and my first small bore. I'm coming off a highly tuned and ported KTM 300, so I really have no baseline for what "optimal" power delivery is....

By no means do I jet based on spooge, but how much spooge is normal? This shot is after 20 minutes of fast riding with what was a showroom clean fender...

 

[TROFFER88]

2013 CR 144. 32.5 pilot, 460 main, 16-62 Suz needle clip #3, AS @ 1.75, RB mikuni carb, Scalvini pipe, 1100' elevation, 75 degrees.....

Are you using the #5 slide

 

[mnnthbx]

I am.

 

[TROFFER88]

I run the 30 pilot and the 17-62 @ #3 , needle is half a clip leaner than the 16-62 . I had the same thing going on that you discribed and it helped alot.

 

[mnnthbx]

Just ordered the needle, along w/ a 30 & 35 just to have around. Thanks so much for the help. Now let me ask this.....

After I got my 300 jetting dialed, the only jetting change throughout the year (100-20 degrees), was I'd go up one size on the pilot when it started getting cold outside to easy in starting. Always ran perfect, but made so much power, if it was a bit off, you'd never know it. What jetting changes can I expect to make when my 75 degree weather gets into the 45 degree range (about as cold as I ride now, getting old and soft...).

 

[TROFFER88]

With the Rb mods once I have it where I want it I dont change all year

 

[dartyppyt]

Do you have a set of Walt's powervalve springs in/adjusted correctly? Sometimes if the powervalve dumps too fast, you get a hiccup in mid range.

 

[mnnthbx]

Stock springs, valve adjusted 3/4 way to the top.

 

[dartyppyt]

Stock springs, valve adjusted 3/4 way to the top.

You should try a set. I use stock/silver combo.

 

[mnnthbx]

I may indeed. What si the effect? Also, RB (designs) suggests I drop again to a 30 pilot. Won't hurt to try.... Funny though, this all started as what struck me as a lean bog until the motor was HOT. Now I'm going to leaner needles and pilots...

 

[huskybear]

Hello every-one, I have a question for you. I have the jetting pretty much sorted on my wr150 but it is still pretty finicky with temp and alt. changes. I am wondering what the differences would be running the dey 15-74 needle in the second clip position from the top with the #4 slide compared to the "rm" chy 16-62 needle in the top (leanest) position with the #5 slide, pilot and main being the same. My bike seems to like lean mixtures at small throttle openings and it is a fine line between a lean bog and a rich blubbering at 1/8to1/4 throttle. If any-body can tell me what and where the differences between the the two settings would be I would appreciate it. I know how to jet a bike but this one is very finicky (mikuni) and the different circuits seem to over-lap more than with a keihin(I may get one soon!) Thanks.

 

[Rob09]

Ok guys, I had problems with my 09 wr250 bogging and carrying on at low throttle openings. Had the carb checked (float level ect) and set to factory jetting by the dealer. Now I have gone from a 35 pilot to 32.5 and then 30. Much better, but still had a bog hole from say 1% to maybe 5% throttle (I'm assuming this is where needle position comes into play.)

Next came needle position, went from middle to second from top and the bog got a lot smaller. Then went to the top position in the needle and now the bog is completely gone, however now on closed throttle (slowing for corners, ect) she pops and farts (was smooth as silk in second position on closed throttle).

This is my first time jetting a carb, and I've read everything I can find, but this has me stumped. Thread of plug is still wet, centre looks perfect. Am I right in going back to the second position on the needle and try a 27.5 pilot as my next step?

I ride on the street mainly (first time on dirt since I've owned it today, that was fun.) have a brand new perfectly oiled unifilter, always run the same 98 octane with motul at 50:1. I'm enjoying learning and playing with the carb, but it's frustrating being so close then introducing a second problem. Thanks.

 

[huskybear]

Ok guys, I had problems with my 09 wr250 bogging and carrying on at low throttle openings. Had the carb checked (float level ect) and set to factory jetting by the dealer. Now I have gone from a 35 pilot to 32.5 and then 30. Much better, but still had a bog hole from say 1% to maybe 5% throttle (I'm assuming this is where needle position comes into play.)

Next came needle position, went from middle to second from top and the bog got a lot smaller. Then went to the top position in the needle and now the bog is completely gone, however now on closed throttle (slowing for corners, ect) she pops and farts (was smooth as silk in second position on closed throttle).

This is my first time jetting a carb, and I've read everything I can find, but this has me stumped. Thread of plug is still wet, centre looks perfect. Am I right in going back to the second position on the needle and try a 27.5 pilot as my next step?

I ride on the street mainly (first time on dirt since I've owned it today, that was fun.) have a brand new perfectly oiled unifilter, always run the same 98 octane with motul at 50:1. I'm enjoying learning and playing with the carb, but it's frustrating being so close then introducing a second problem. Thanks.

Been there, I would try leaving the needle in the top position and turning the air-screw in a quarter to a half turn or putting the 32.5 pilot back in. Let us know how it goes,good luck!.

 

[Rob09]

Thanks for the advice, maybe made a very slight difference, but not much. Got to put up with it till I can grab a few different jets, bloody frustrating being the best I've had it running and stuck between a rock and a hard place.