The idle screw as I recall has a tapered point. Yours seems to have a flat point with an edge radius. The spring also looks too heavy for the applicationThe end is shaped how its supposed to be idk if you can tell the pic quality sucks
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Hi everyone,
As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.
When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.
Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.
Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.
Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.
Thanks for your patience and support!
Last question about 400 enduro (sorry)
- Thread starter cOrPsE
- Start date
Ron
Husqvarna
AA Class
Looks like a normal idle screw to me.
cOrPsE
Husqvarna
A Class
this is exactly how it looks, my camera quality was just shity, it is tapered like that.
Four Digit
Husqvarna
AA Class
Look at your slide. If it looks like the attached photo then your idle adjustment screw won't lift the slide. The slide is too worn.
Four Digit
Husqvarna
AA Class
Four Digit
Husqvarna
AA Class
Four Digit
Husqvarna
AA Class
dukkman
Husqvarna
AA Class
Thanks for posting a photo of the slide fitted backwards in a VM mikuni.
As I said.
"Put the slide in backwards and it does not go to the bottom , the cable has a heap of slack , the slide idle screw does not work and the engine can rev it's ring off."
Corpse your slide is badly worn where the adjuster hits.
If you remove the spring from the adjuster and refit if it will work but not stay set.
Shorten the spring.
Old Geezer
Husqvarna
A Class
Here's a shot of the adjusting screw off one of my spare Mikuni Vm's (a 34mm), for what it's worth
Mr. Corpse, I don't mean to sound degrading at all, but your first post mentioned "tuning" the carb. Do you have a sound working knowledge of Mikuni carbs and how to tune them? Was there an issue prior to your (and your stepdads') tuning the carb? I think we're barking up the wrong tree, hoping something as simple as a worn out idle adjusting screw is your issue (that's a long shot, IMHO). Provided your slide and jet needle are installed correctly, you've most likely got something else going on such as an improperly jetted pilot circuit or plugged up air passage within the carb itself.
Was the bike idling OK prior to messing with it?
Mr. Corpse, I don't mean to sound degrading at all, but your first post mentioned "tuning" the carb. Do you have a sound working knowledge of Mikuni carbs and how to tune them? Was there an issue prior to your (and your stepdads') tuning the carb? I think we're barking up the wrong tree, hoping something as simple as a worn out idle adjusting screw is your issue (that's a long shot, IMHO). Provided your slide and jet needle are installed correctly, you've most likely got something else going on such as an improperly jetted pilot circuit or plugged up air passage within the carb itself.
Was the bike idling OK prior to messing with it?
cOrPsE
Husqvarna
A Class
As for experience my step dad has a lot. Hes a diesel mechanic and has had dirtbikes/snowmobiles his whole life. I've rebuilt 3 topends with him on my old dirtbikes. I'm 22 now and have got my 1st 4 wheeler when i was 11 or 12 (yamaha blaster). I've always been obsessed with cars, motorcycles etc etc. So I'm not some oblivious person just trying to get my bike running, I do research before I do anything. I like to come on here for insight before we dig in. I've never had a dirtbike that was this close to the grave.
Since we've gotten the bike running it has never idled(we left the carb how it was besides cleaning it). We've cleaned the carb 2 times now extensively (its together correctly). Idk if you caught it but when i got this bike it was in horrible condition. Carb was seized, magnesium clutch case was rotted, clutch plates stuck together etc etc. When we "tuned" it, it was because the bike would not idle and bogged at low rpm. We stopped the bogging but it will not idle no matter what we do. It will idle with the choke on though, which would mean what its getting not enough gas? Yet whenever we try to start it without the choke (unless its warm), it floods.
This was worst carb I've ever seen. The whole inside was BLACK. Floats would not move.
2premo
Husqvarna
Pro Class
I know you have had a tough time with this but sometimes going back to basics is the answer
if you are close to sea level set the carb as stock and assume nothing, the VM has many adaptations
main jet, needle jet, idle jet, needle position, needle size, air screw, slide cutaway, air jet
they all affect it one way or another and may have been so poorly done you are fighting it everywhere
and when you mentioned choke, it's an enrichment circuit and they can be a problem too
if you are close to sea level set the carb as stock and assume nothing, the VM has many adaptations
main jet, needle jet, idle jet, needle position, needle size, air screw, slide cutaway, air jet
they all affect it one way or another and may have been so poorly done you are fighting it everywhere
and when you mentioned choke, it's an enrichment circuit and they can be a problem too
Old Geezer
Husqvarna
A Class
Years ago I bought a Yamaha 360MX that was in excellent condition, stored inside by the second owner for 25 years (yes, 25). Even though he had drained the fuel, the carb was still pretty varnished up. Took it all apart as I've done a zillion times before, cleaned the bee-Jesus out of it and all the jets and passageways, but still the bike would not run right especially under load. Recleaned recleaned recleaned....to no avail (BTW, the pictures I've posted were from that very carb, which is now a paperweight). The main needle jet was plugged in its internal passages and rather that screwing around buying needle jet/jet needle combinations, I just bought an entire new carb for around $100.
dukkman
Husqvarna
AA Class
This mob will sell you a new carb with jetting you ask for.
[ I can't get the vm pages to work on their site but this is where I bought my 400 carb.]
http://www.sudco.com/Carburetor01.html
[ I can't get the vm pages to work on their site but this is where I bought my 400 carb.]
http://www.sudco.com/Carburetor01.html
cOrPsE
Husqvarna
A Class
Do you know which VM the 400 comes with?
@geezer
Is it possible for you to take a pic of the inside of that paper weight carb? Not the bowl
Old Geezer
Husqvarna
A Class
Sure, no problem. Specifically, what do you want to see? I removed the jets (main and needle jet and jet needle) and can't remember if there's still a pilot jet in there or not (probably not, most likely residing in my jet collection). Floats and float valve are probably still in there.
cOrPsE
Husqvarna
A Class
Well i kinda wanted to see the pilot jet spot. I know where they are, but i want to see if mine looks the same as someone elses.