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Hi everyone,
As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.
When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.
Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.
Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.
Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.
Thanks for your patience and support!
125-200cc Lectron Issue-where to start?
- Thread starter surfer1100
- Start date
surfer1100
Husqvarna
AA Class
The TM started fine w/o choke today initially. Ran it for 10 mins, seemed flat, reminded me of a WR 125 vs. CR 125. Lots of lug, but wouldn't pull into the power band easily. Stopped at the truck for a moment, then started it again and was revving it to determine which way I wanted to go with it. Was holding it in the midrange and it was sputtering, but also bwooaaahhhhing and died. Wouldn't start back up. Probably fouled another plug. Guess I'll set the idle again and go back leaner, the direction I just came from.
Xcuvator
Husqvarna
Pro Class
Boy I don't understand why you are having so much trouble. Have you looked to see if you have the 3-1XL needle? Sorry I don't remember.
When I got mine (one of the first) it would blubber a fair amount coming off idle so I turned the needle out (leaner) 1 full turn. It was better but still blubbering (like a rich pilot) so I went 1 more full turn and presto- no more blubber. I then went 1/4 turn more and that is where it is now. I will probably try one more 1/4 turn lean to see what happens, but it runs great where it is.
If you are lean you should notice a very unstable and high wandering idle and a bog when you gas it.
When I got mine (one of the first) it would blubber a fair amount coming off idle so I turned the needle out (leaner) 1 full turn. It was better but still blubbering (like a rich pilot) so I went 1 more full turn and presto- no more blubber. I then went 1/4 turn more and that is where it is now. I will probably try one more 1/4 turn lean to see what happens, but it runs great where it is.
If you are lean you should notice a very unstable and high wandering idle and a bog when you gas it.
Steve-oh
Husqvarna
AA Class
I still haven't had a chance to go for a good ride yet due to Canadian winters 
. But last week I went for a short rip. I unloaded my bike, pulled the choke on, fired up first kick, as it always did in the driveway and back alley, but this this time it ran very rich, blubber, I had to have the idle screw turned in all the way and still barely idled. I never had this problem ripping up and down the back alley. What I found was the little rubber seal just below the black plastic choke knob on the Lectron had popped up off it grove and was resting on top of the brass nut seal grove, thus holding the choke open ever so slightly and of course making the bike run rich. I pulled the choke out, EZ to do. And put the seal back in the grove, not EZ to do. Its something easy to over look, nothing looks out of the ordinary but the choke is always on just a little.
. But last week I went for a short rip. I unloaded my bike, pulled the choke on, fired up first kick, as it always did in the driveway and back alley, but this this time it ran very rich, blubber, I had to have the idle screw turned in all the way and still barely idled. I never had this problem ripping up and down the back alley. What I found was the little rubber seal just below the black plastic choke knob on the Lectron had popped up off it grove and was resting on top of the brass nut seal grove, thus holding the choke open ever so slightly and of course making the bike run rich. I pulled the choke out, EZ to do. And put the seal back in the grove, not EZ to do. Its something easy to over look, nothing looks out of the ordinary but the choke is always on just a little.
454x
Husqvarna
Pro Class
no your not alone. Mine is getting better with use. I think the choke rubber is just stiff till it breaks in.
johnnyboy
Husqvarna
Pro Class
I have no problems at all !!! mine is fitted with a choke lever assembly and is so so easy to get at from the left hand side, A worthy mod if there ever was one
Aviduser
Husqvarna
AA Class
I have no problems at all !!! mine is fitted with a choke lever assembly and is so so easy to get at from the left hand side, A worthy mod if there ever was one
What part did you use? Haven't gotten my lectron yet but would love to have the choke near the fuel petcock.
johnnyboy
Husqvarna
Pro Class
I swapped the choke assembly from my old 36mm Lectron to the new 38mm item - looks to be a old mikuni type lever ect, needs no mods but makes life so much easier and more natural
Looked on the Lectron site and it dosnt appear to be listed anymore ! perhaps Kelly would know if it is.
johnnyboy
Husqvarna
Pro Class
Just had a big dig through a box of old carbs and found a few old mikuni VMs, my choke lever is identical to these units although you may have to use the lectron plunger. Sudco stocks these items so may be worth trying one or just finding a old scrap carb from ebay or a breakers.http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SUDCO-MIK...rcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item53f3077581
WVdag
Husqvarna
AA Class
I had the same problem, choke was hard to push down and the rubber popped off. I put a little PB blaster on the shaft. Made it all good.
Dave
Steve-oh
Husqvarna
AA Class
I lubed my choke shaft too, but now it doesn't stay up to good, that sounds weird... May be when the weathers warmer I won't need to choke it.
Long_Stroke
Husqvarna
AA Class
Same. I have to twist the knob as I push it down for it to go down.
yeah they are tight, will loosen up some with use. Mine works nice now.
Blakelpd5
Husqvarna
Pro Class
Sounds like I just need to "Ride More"
surfer1100
Husqvarna
AA Class
So I followed the guide starting with the settings I had left off on save for setting the idle screw at 1.5 turns out from fully closed.
Started to go leaner on the rod from where I was(pretty sure within 1/4 turn of original settings) in 1/4 turn increments...
Experienced little change in idle until maybe the 5th/6th adjustment leaner, where the idle was way screaming high enough that the kill switch would barely work.
That being said, at each adjustment the idle was higher than I would like, and each time I would end up 2.5-3 turns out to make it settle.
It did run very crisp and clean and was quite snappy and very little smoke at the second to last adjustment leaner.
BUT the idle screw was at 3 turns out AND at a lean setting.
So I started richening the rod by 1/4 turns making sure the idle screw was at 1.5 out each time. After 10-12 1/4 turns richer the idle was at a nice level similar to what I am use to.
BUT the bike is super rich and smoking and misting oil everywhere(something this bike has never done) and of course not snappy and has that rich flat bog.
This final setting was spot on with the 49.5mm mark.
I then compared the slide and rod with my cousins Gas gas 125, which he claims is very crisp and likes it a lot.
His was about 50.5-51mm, so I adjusted mine accordingly. ended up being 1.25 turns leaner on the rod. Revs better and idles high at 1.5 turns, of course if I turn it out to 2.5/3 it's better. Still spits some oil(probably left over oil from super rich).
SO basically can't get the bike to idle and rev out clean if idle screw is set at 1.5. It runs near perfect as I lean it out, but needs idle to be set at 2.5-3.5 turns out.
Somethings I should mention are that the machining on the carbs is rather abrasive, especially on the slides. Both of these carbs have less than a hour run time and the slides are already looking beat up, grooved, etc. Also my slide appears to be ever so slightly larger( say 0.5 mm longer) and the edges on the other carb seem to be machined slightly different as well( more rounded edges at the 4 corners, etc). Both bikes have the 3-1XL rod and are also receiving scratches already with the low use.
I am not upset and know carbs can be finicky, just dumbfounded and confused at why I am having so much trouble tuning this bike. I tuned the TMX carb on my 07 125 as a complete newbie to jetting faster than this thing!! haha
Started to go leaner on the rod from where I was(pretty sure within 1/4 turn of original settings) in 1/4 turn increments...
Experienced little change in idle until maybe the 5th/6th adjustment leaner, where the idle was way screaming high enough that the kill switch would barely work.
That being said, at each adjustment the idle was higher than I would like, and each time I would end up 2.5-3 turns out to make it settle.
It did run very crisp and clean and was quite snappy and very little smoke at the second to last adjustment leaner.
BUT the idle screw was at 3 turns out AND at a lean setting.
So I started richening the rod by 1/4 turns making sure the idle screw was at 1.5 out each time. After 10-12 1/4 turns richer the idle was at a nice level similar to what I am use to.
BUT the bike is super rich and smoking and misting oil everywhere(something this bike has never done) and of course not snappy and has that rich flat bog.
This final setting was spot on with the 49.5mm mark.
I then compared the slide and rod with my cousins Gas gas 125, which he claims is very crisp and likes it a lot.
His was about 50.5-51mm, so I adjusted mine accordingly. ended up being 1.25 turns leaner on the rod. Revs better and idles high at 1.5 turns, of course if I turn it out to 2.5/3 it's better. Still spits some oil(probably left over oil from super rich).
SO basically can't get the bike to idle and rev out clean if idle screw is set at 1.5. It runs near perfect as I lean it out, but needs idle to be set at 2.5-3.5 turns out.
Somethings I should mention are that the machining on the carbs is rather abrasive, especially on the slides. Both of these carbs have less than a hour run time and the slides are already looking beat up, grooved, etc. Also my slide appears to be ever so slightly larger( say 0.5 mm longer) and the edges on the other carb seem to be machined slightly different as well( more rounded edges at the 4 corners, etc). Both bikes have the 3-1XL rod and are also receiving scratches already with the low use.
I am not upset and know carbs can be finicky, just dumbfounded and confused at why I am having so much trouble tuning this bike. I tuned the TMX carb on my 07 125 as a complete newbie to jetting faster than this thing!! haha
surfer1100
Husqvarna
AA Class
Because the guide uses that mark as an indicator on which direction to go( leaner or richer)... and want to make adjustments according to that so I may get proper feedback...
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/lectron-carb-tuning-guide.32064/