• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

  • 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Austria - About 2014 & Newer
    TE = 2st Enduro & TC = 2st Cross

TE/TC Linkage hardware??

be350ka

Husqvarna
AA Class
I'm picking up a 2015 TE250 in a month when it arrives, but I'm currently getting my ducks in a row for its arrival. I have always been a fan of ensuring that the bearings are well lubed prior to the season starting and plan on doing just that over the winter. However, I need some help here from those of you who already have this bike in the garage.

  1. Are the bearings still coming pretty dry from the factory? It seem that it depends on which day they were assembled.
  2. Does the 2014/2015 Husky have that darn cone nut with a flat side to secure the dog bone to the frame?
  3. Can someone post some good picture of this area if in fact they are using the nut from hell as described on KTMtalk.
  4. Those of you who have remove the linkage and swingarm for a touch up what did you find with the hardware and the condition of the bearings? Did the cone nut give you fits? Stories welcomed.
Thanks again for your help guys!! I'm already happy to be in.....well, close to in the club. I'm very excited and hauling my buddy's TE125 home for him yesterday didn't help with the wait. Oh well, I need the rest as I found that mashing your wrist into a tree only results in plates and 11 screws. On the mend.....
 
Sorry about the wrist and good luck with the bike. I'm about to take my new TE125 linkage apart, so I'll look. Too excited for your friend, to look at his TE125 when you hauled it for him?:busted:
 
Sorry about the wrist and good luck with the bike. I'm about to take my new TE125 linkage apart, so I'll look. Too excited for your friend, to look at his TE125 when you hauled it for him?:busted:

Yea, he's been following your 125 thread quite closely. Heck, who am I kidding. I followed it too. He is going to love the weight difference moving from his FE390.

I was up until 2am last night/this morning researching parts for these bikes and it seems that the 125 uses the same nut on all three bolt/link locations on the links. Big plus for you 125 guys. I'm going to have nightmares about that stupid cone nut and the gobs of triple red loctite that they apply so that the bike doesn't fall apart in a crate. Grrrrrrr..... Oh well, Slavens did a video and mentioned that the key is lots of heat. So, I will go that route when I go for the tear down I guess.

Pics are always welcome and if we share our experiences it will save someone some grief in the future.

Thanks again!
 
I greased all bearings the day I picked my 14 TC250 up. I had no problems with any of the hardware. I used slow and steady pressure and made sure the nut stayed captured to the flat on the dogbone. It looked like they only used assembly lube for the bearings. I use bel-ray waterproof grease.

Sweet looking small bore! Congrats
 
Beat me to the punch bro! I was about to throw that one up! You're right....so ronery!! Needs a buddy ASAP.
 
The linkage on my bike had plenty of grease. I did add some because it was apart for a linkage skid. It came with the cone nut. It comes off very easy with a bunch of heat. The red loctite takes quite a bit of heat to get it to release. Just be sure that the nut stays up against the linkage as you remove the bolt. And lots of heat. Did I mention heat it a lot? I've had two linkage bikes with these. It's no problem.
 
The linkage on my bike had plenty of grease. I did add some because it was apart for a linkage skid. It came with the cone nut. It comes off very easy with a bunch of heat. The red loctite takes quite a bit of heat to get it to release. Just be sure that the nut stays up against the linkage as you remove the bolt. And lots of heat. Did I mention heat it a lot? I've had two linkage bikes with these. It's no problem.
Thanks for the input. You say red loctite? Maybe KTM changed the loctite because it seems that the 2012 KTMs had green.

I'm putting the linkage guard on my bike too thus my fascination with that nut.

What did you use for heat? Heat gun or torch? How long did you heat it?
 
Also, did you rely on the frame tab to hold the nut? Or did you use the vice grips that everyone seems to be using?
 
I'm going to go with the blue Slavens linkage guard. He has a YouTube video of replacing a trail tested one. And it's only $90 US
 
I use the Emperor Racing linkage skid. I beat the crud out of my last one with good results so I bought another one for the 15'. I just used a propane torch to loosen the loctite. Also the frame tab will hold it as long as you maintain pressure to hold the nut against the frame.
 
Slavens Racing guard on my KTM 250 XC. The nut came off with zero issues....didn't even use heat, just a properly fitting socket and a breaker bar. I had read comments about a few people rounding them off so I was extra careful to make sure the socket was squared up and just gave it a slow and steady tug until it let loose. The linkage was well greased, as were the swing arm and triple tree.
 
Slavens Racing guard on my KTM 250 XC. The nut came off with zero issues....didn't even use heat, just a properly fitting socket and a breaker bar. I had read comments about a few people rounding them off so I was extra careful to make sure the socket was squared up and just gave it a slow and steady tug until it let loose. The linkage was well greased, as were the swing arm and triple tree.

Good to hear! Thanks for the input.
 
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