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Hi everyone,
As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.
When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.
Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.
Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.
Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.
Thanks for your patience and support!
Living with a 2010 Husky TE 510!
- Thread starter danbartol
- Start date
huskyte310
Husqvarna
AA Class
It is just a mater of time be for it happens to you. Fuel pump pops out about 1/4 inch. Then just about the time the low fuel light should come on it feels like its out of gas.
glangston
Husqvarna
Pro Class
danbartol;64635 said:
You might have to e-mail him to get the CCA info,
http://turntechbattery.com/TurnTech%20Battery/FAQ.html
CCA is a weird thing with the Lithium batteries. They behave much differently than a Lead Acid battery. CCA is the maximum amps that a battery can discharge while staying above 7.2V at 32F.
For lead acid the first part of the starting is the most powerful and then it gets less and less. I am sure many of you have experienced this, it the cold on a weak or old battery you get 1 or 2 attempts and then nothing. IF you look at a lead acid CCA graph, there will be a staight sloped line that starts at 13ishV and hits 7.2V at 30 seconds.
The lithium's are just the opposite, the first attempt is going to be the worst. Then each attempt will get stronger and stronger. As the batteries push a lot of amps when they are cold the cells start to heat up. The more they heat up the more amps they can provide, eventually they get to normal operating temperature and then they provide the full 120A for the 2.5Ah. If you look at CCA graph for lithium the battery will start at 13ish V, drop almost immediately to 7.2V then the voltage will climb for the rest of the test. Like I said backwards.
The mini which is about 1.2Ah will only have about 50A, problem is that the motor takes much much current, just for an instant, when it starts (about 120-130A). I don't think the "mini" will be able to start the bike unless your kicking at the same time. Great for use as a source of power for the FI, not so great as a starting battery. This is why I have an extra 2.5Ah in the camel back. the Berg doesn't work without a 12V source (disconnect the battery ad the motor quits) and doesn't have a kick start and I don't really want to have to push it, if I have to go in and put a 12V source in, i may as well put one it that will start the bike.
For lead acid the first part of the starting is the most powerful and then it gets less and less. I am sure many of you have experienced this, it the cold on a weak or old battery you get 1 or 2 attempts and then nothing. IF you look at a lead acid CCA graph, there will be a staight sloped line that starts at 13ishV and hits 7.2V at 30 seconds.
The lithium's are just the opposite, the first attempt is going to be the worst. Then each attempt will get stronger and stronger. As the batteries push a lot of amps when they are cold the cells start to heat up. The more they heat up the more amps they can provide, eventually they get to normal operating temperature and then they provide the full 120A for the 2.5Ah. If you look at CCA graph for lithium the battery will start at 13ish V, drop almost immediately to 7.2V then the voltage will climb for the rest of the test. Like I said backwards.
The mini which is about 1.2Ah will only have about 50A, problem is that the motor takes much much current, just for an instant, when it starts (about 120-130A). I don't think the "mini" will be able to start the bike unless your kicking at the same time. Great for use as a source of power for the FI, not so great as a starting battery. This is why I have an extra 2.5Ah in the camel back. the Berg doesn't work without a 12V source (disconnect the battery ad the motor quits) and doesn't have a kick start and I don't really want to have to push it, if I have to go in and put a 12V source in, i may as well put one it that will start the bike.
mick patrick
Husqvarna
C Class
great looking bike i also have o9 te 510 and its been the best bike i have ever owned,its got 1050km on it and no problems at all.have fun.
danbartol
Husqvarna
AA Class
OK so it's still freezing ass cold here, so there has been little riding. To compensate I have been farkeling!
First I replaced this rubber plug:
With a proper screw to avoid it blowing off during a backfire:
Next came the Old Fat Guy Racing radiator guards. These things are a breeze to in stall and seem quite sturdy:
The only things that needs some tweaking are the plastic slats. These need a bit of trimming done to properly fit over the cross braces.
While I had the forks off to slip some fork gators on I greased the steering stem bearing. In all truth Husky does a great job from the factory. I was quite impressed. Opposite from my old Honda which had a Q-Tip dab a Vaseline on all the bearing the Husky was properly greased, even the chain adjusters had anti-seize on them.
Next I decided to install some grip heaters and some rally grips. I wanted to try something new this time to compensate for the lack of insulation on the clutch side. I had some foil duct tape laying around so I first put one thin wrap of electrical tape on the handlebar, then covered that with the aluminum foil:
On top of that went the grip heaters:
and then the rally grips:
After the grips came the Cycra Pro Hand guards. These went on pretty easily. The only caveat is that on the TE models the inboard mounts are really close to the ignition key and make it difficult to turn the key.
You can see here how close the mount is to the ignition block:
I love the look:
Here is my favorite piece of Bling:
Now that is a work of art:
Stuck a bit of foam between the frame and the skid plate to dampen sound:
Here is the muffler shied:
I also wrapped the pipe w/ some wrap and put a bit of heat tile on the air box:
The uncorked TE510 exhaust is way too loud for trail riding so in goes the Husky dB Killer:
Still sounds pretty nice, but cut the sound way down to a manageable level:
Gotta have some decent foot pegs too:
First I replaced this rubber plug:
With a proper screw to avoid it blowing off during a backfire:
Next came the Old Fat Guy Racing radiator guards. These things are a breeze to in stall and seem quite sturdy:
The only things that needs some tweaking are the plastic slats. These need a bit of trimming done to properly fit over the cross braces.
While I had the forks off to slip some fork gators on I greased the steering stem bearing. In all truth Husky does a great job from the factory. I was quite impressed. Opposite from my old Honda which had a Q-Tip dab a Vaseline on all the bearing the Husky was properly greased, even the chain adjusters had anti-seize on them.
Next I decided to install some grip heaters and some rally grips. I wanted to try something new this time to compensate for the lack of insulation on the clutch side. I had some foil duct tape laying around so I first put one thin wrap of electrical tape on the handlebar, then covered that with the aluminum foil:
On top of that went the grip heaters:
and then the rally grips:
After the grips came the Cycra Pro Hand guards. These went on pretty easily. The only caveat is that on the TE models the inboard mounts are really close to the ignition key and make it difficult to turn the key.
You can see here how close the mount is to the ignition block:
I love the look:
Here is my favorite piece of Bling:
Now that is a work of art:
Stuck a bit of foam between the frame and the skid plate to dampen sound:
Here is the muffler shied:
I also wrapped the pipe w/ some wrap and put a bit of heat tile on the air box:
The uncorked TE510 exhaust is way too loud for trail riding so in goes the Husky dB Killer:
Still sounds pretty nice, but cut the sound way down to a manageable level:
Gotta have some decent foot pegs too:
danbartol
Husqvarna
AA Class
To run the heated grips and the HID lighting I ran some heavy gage wire from the battery to the headlight area. I also installed pig tail on the battery to hook up the electric vest or the battery tender when parked.
Here you can see the red & black wires running up the frame:
and back to the headlight:
Here is the Bi Xenon HID ballast and electronics stashed behind the number plate. This is a temp set up to see how the HID works in the stock reflector and how durable the Bi-Xenon is in off road terrain.
There are a lot of wire to stash somewhere:
Here is where I tucked away the relay for the heated grips:
I wanted to install the TE610 rear rack sub-frame w/ a ProMoto rack, but the 2010 TE510 has a different rear fender which incorporates the new LED brake light. The LED light mount interferes w/ the rack support and keeps it from sitting flush:
TE610 Rack support:
I got rid of the silly rear mudflap/license plate mount and went with this:
I also picked this up hoping it will help the fuel injection better adapt to the typical 6000ft elevation change one encounters daily while riding in Colorado:
Not much space to fit all this on the TE. Here is how I stashed everything in the right side panel:
Next is the 3 gallon IMS tank. I chose clear even though it's ugly as sin for two reasons:
1- I can visually check the fuel level.
2- The lighter color keeps the fuel cooler. I have had issues in the past w/ black tanks.
The tank was full of plastic shavings from the factory and needed to be flushed out. Here it is drying in the kitchen:
Everything mounted up easily on the tank and I made sure I did the fuel pump mod to keep it from popping out of place.
I'm a bit disappointed by the tank.
First I wish it were a bit bigger, somewhere in the 4 to 4.5 gallon range would be ideal.
Two I'm really pissed that it will not fit the OEM tank shrouds. They are what give the bike its look. W/out them the bike looks naked/unfinished.
I ordered a second set of shrouds which I will attempt to mount to the tank. We'll see how that goes when I get around to it.
Even the radiator shrouds have to be trimmed from this:
To this to fit:
I also took the time to measure the fuel capacity of the tank in .5 gal increments. You can see the fuel level marking on the tank:
Here she is all buttoned up and ready to ride.
As soon as the temps break the 40F mark I'll take it for a proper spin and write a report.
That's all I got for now.
Here you can see the red & black wires running up the frame:
and back to the headlight:
Here is the Bi Xenon HID ballast and electronics stashed behind the number plate. This is a temp set up to see how the HID works in the stock reflector and how durable the Bi-Xenon is in off road terrain.
There are a lot of wire to stash somewhere:
Here is where I tucked away the relay for the heated grips:
I wanted to install the TE610 rear rack sub-frame w/ a ProMoto rack, but the 2010 TE510 has a different rear fender which incorporates the new LED brake light. The LED light mount interferes w/ the rack support and keeps it from sitting flush:
TE610 Rack support:
I got rid of the silly rear mudflap/license plate mount and went with this:
I also picked this up hoping it will help the fuel injection better adapt to the typical 6000ft elevation change one encounters daily while riding in Colorado:
Not much space to fit all this on the TE. Here is how I stashed everything in the right side panel:
Next is the 3 gallon IMS tank. I chose clear even though it's ugly as sin for two reasons:
1- I can visually check the fuel level.
2- The lighter color keeps the fuel cooler. I have had issues in the past w/ black tanks.
The tank was full of plastic shavings from the factory and needed to be flushed out. Here it is drying in the kitchen:
Everything mounted up easily on the tank and I made sure I did the fuel pump mod to keep it from popping out of place.
I'm a bit disappointed by the tank.
First I wish it were a bit bigger, somewhere in the 4 to 4.5 gallon range would be ideal.
Two I'm really pissed that it will not fit the OEM tank shrouds. They are what give the bike its look. W/out them the bike looks naked/unfinished.
I ordered a second set of shrouds which I will attempt to mount to the tank. We'll see how that goes when I get around to it.
Even the radiator shrouds have to be trimmed from this:
To this to fit:
I also took the time to measure the fuel capacity of the tank in .5 gal increments. You can see the fuel level marking on the tank:
Here she is all buttoned up and ready to ride.
As soon as the temps break the 40F mark I'll take it for a proper spin and write a report.
That's all I got for now.
Dumb Question about Radiator Shrouds
I put the IMS tank on my -510 with the OFG Radiator Guards. I did not reintall the Radiator Shrouds and over the last summer, it seemed my aux fan was running a lot more.
Do the Shrouds aid in cooling, if so should I trim them and mount them back ont he bike?
Thanks for the great write up
Greetings from 12 deg. Michigan
Paul
I put the IMS tank on my -510 with the OFG Radiator Guards. I did not reintall the Radiator Shrouds and over the last summer, it seemed my aux fan was running a lot more.
Do the Shrouds aid in cooling, if so should I trim them and mount them back ont he bike?
Thanks for the great write up
Greetings from 12 deg. Michigan
Paul
danbartol
Husqvarna
AA Class
Pete;70104 said:
The Husky part # for the dB Killer is 8000H0827. I think it only works on the 09 and up models, the ones w/ the cat in the mid pipe. There were significant changes done to the exhaust system for the 09 models. I think it will work w/ all the Arrow performance exhausts, but I'm not sure.
It works well to cut down the noise. As for power loss I have not really been able to test it due to the weather, but I guess because of its more restrictive nature I will loose some top end / max rpm HP, but on the other hand I will gain a bit of low to mid end torque, which is more practical for trail riding.
Anyway the minimal loss of HP is worth the noise reduction. I'm a big proponent of trading lightly both on the trail and the ears. This is the only way we will be able to preserve our riding areas. (Hopping off the soap box now...
)
YOu will have lots of fun with this new rocket. I got a '09 TE510 about a year ago now and have been loving it. I have done much of what you mentioned already to mine... Same pro's and cons pretty much too.
Hey, by the way, you mentioned " a Husky dB killer insert " Where did you order your's? and how much $$ ??
Thanks, cheers! Pete
Hey, by the way, you mentioned " a Husky dB killer insert " Where did you order your's? and how much $$ ??
Thanks, cheers! Pete
Sorry, also saw your question re how much mileage we are getting with our TE-510's. I have an '09 with the same tank as you have, and it went to reserve at about 175 kms, the rad dry at 230 kms. THat was off road mostly, on the White Rim Trail down in Moab.
And yes I agree fully with you, I'd put on a larger tank in a SECOND if I could find one. Hey IMS, if you guys ever read these posts "build it.. we will buy em" !!
Cheers
And yes I agree fully with you, I'd put on a larger tank in a SECOND if I could find one. Hey IMS, if you guys ever read these posts "build it.. we will buy em" !!
Cheers