• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Making a Husky Turn

subarumy98 said:
@GaryM.
I know exactly what you mean about the different lines !
There again, I have even watched one our ex-Springboks (when an SA sportsman gets to represent his country, similar to MX de Nations for USA) on a CZ 380, his lines are even more weird. Very wide in, and super tight out..

As to the wrenching comments - points taken. These are the last tweaks for me, but I really do like fiddling - better than watching dodgy TV.
At least the wrenching leads to riding :)

Last question, anyone had success by pulling the forks 10mm or more through the triple clamps ?
Click to expand...


Agree complety, if we didn't like fiddling, none of these old bikes would be around. Getting ready to split the cases on the engine that came with my parts bike to see if the gears and crank are in suitable condition for rebuild, just for fun!
 
subarumy98 said:
Last question, anyone had success by pulling the forks 10mm or more through the triple clamps ?
Click to expand...

I think you and I talked about that at some point... Yes, pull them up. But take the springs out and check at full compression that the wheel is not hitting the fender or frame down-tube. That would be baaaaaaaad.
 
Picklito said:
I think you and I talked about that at some point... Yes, pull them up. But take the springs out and check at full compression that the wheel is not hitting the fender or frame down-tube. That would be baaaaaaaad.
Click to expand...
If that happens, at least make sure someone is taking a picture.
 
I did a quick visual comparison between a 1982 triple and a 1986 triple and it appears the 1986 has maybe 5mm greater offset than the 1982 so I can not see a geometric benefit to using the on an 82 or 83 model
 
Leftcoast leftkicker said:
OK, so here's the deal. I don't want to cut the frame to bring the rake in, don't want to find an '84 frame with the rake in ('cause I have an '82). I read in an MXA 1983 250CR test that Pro Circuit had triples made with 2 degrees less off set and was told by a CH-er that the '86 era bikes had triples with less off set but 2 dealers couldn't confirm it. Short of having clamps made can anyone confirm this?


I also had a brief discussion several months ago with a frame builder and he went on at length about the evils of changing rake & off set- basically that is was a rat hole and you're always chasing unintended consequences.


BTW, my rear shocks are 1/4" longer, I'm running the forks up 7-10mm in the triples and using straight bar mounts. Have also thought about swapping out the tank from "guppy" style to '78-80 style (low & flat).

My buddy has a 490 and I'm depressed every time I get off it.
Click to expand...

Make your buddy an offer he can't refuse.
 
@Jimspac:
Tell us about this part please. "1986 has maybe 5mm greater offset"
which way is the offset going ?
To place the bar clamps closer to the centre line of the forks perhaps ?

T
 
The offset is measured from the center of the steering stem to the center of the forks. If the offset value was made smaller, there would be a reduction in the trail that would result in sharper steering without steeping the rake
 
I have an 83 250 xc with a 28 degree cut frame and a 83 500 cr with the same 28 degree steering head. Both have the 87-88 fork with gold valves and cut springs up front. ( I'm 6'3" and 220 lbs.) The rear shocks have the stiffest Ohlin spring, still available, and I revalved stiffer on rebound and compression.

I run the white plastic tank/seat combo because it is about 2" shorter, allowing me to get forward that much easier.

Top clamps are straight up Pro Taper's with the offset forward, and a tall oversize bar.

The 250 turns as good as a modern bike, the front end sticks with little or no headshake.

The 500 is not quite as nimble, but my buddy with multiple 490 Maico's says there is nothing his Maicos do as well as my 500. Turning, braking, power, rideability. ( The motor has been tinkered with also, cut the deck height, v-force reeds, recut head, cleaned up porting.)

It will not turn with my 83 480cr Honda, but what can? And it also doesn't shake it's head like the 480.

Frames are a dime a dozen, the frame mod is relatively straight forward, no cracks in paint after 4 years use.

I'm comparing to 2010 ktm 450 sxf and other modern bikes also. I ran the bikes in a 4 race team series last year,ranging from 6 to 12 to 24 hrs. No frame/suspension issues. Some crash damage from grandson wrecking the 500 and siezing the 250, crashed my 86 510 also. The 500 got the most time because it was the most competitive, and the modern riders really notice a twin shock 2-stroke passing them, not so much the 86 510 single shock 4-stroke. The 250 is fast in the corners, but slow in the straights.

The whole point is the Husky frames are made out of better materials than it's competitors and if you are competent, results are excellent. It's not for everyone, but it is a viable approach.
 
Just out of curiosity, how much do you spread the top tube after you cut it?

I only weigh 150lbs so that may be a factor since the stock soft springs may work better for me, but I have never thought the '81-'83 Huskys turned poorly. I think its a case of the bikes were designed to be ridden aggressively and only work best when pushed hard. There are other bikes I own that are like that, my '77 Penton MC5 for example. That bike will barely turn if you just cruise along, but the harder you push it the better it handles. Huskys are the same way.
 
Husqvarnas have always rewarded agressive riders. I found that out with the 1969 360 enduro that was my first Husqvarna. I was only 14 when I bought it thinking it was a 250 until I went to the dealer for a replacement 2nd gear . When I was just putting around the yard it felt like an ark.After getting used to it I went trail riding with and found the faster I went, the better it turned and felt very stable at the same . The 2nd Husqvarna I had several years later made me fall in love. That was a low hour 1978 390 Auto setup for enduro and ISDT Qualifiers. Loved the power and turned like a razor at any speed. That frame I have found out much later had a 29° rake
 
I used to think the faster you went they better it handled too, until I landed on my head and spent the next week semi-comatose. Maybe I should have learned to read the terrain first. LOL
 
Kartwheel68 said:
Just out of curiosity, how much do you spread the top tube after you cut it?

I only weigh 150lbs so that may be a factor since the stock soft springs may work better for me, but I have never thought the '81-'83 Huskys turned poorly. I think its a case of the bikes were designed to be ridden aggressively and only work best when pushed hard. There are other bikes I own that are like that, my '77 Penton MC5 for example. That bike will barely turn if you just cruise along, but the harder you push it the better it handles. Huskys are the same way.
Click to expand...

Scoot had detailed this better several months ago Essentially you put a level protractor against the steering neck after cutting. You need to heat the front down tube below the gussets and the semi horizontal brace. With the protractor in place spread the neck until you reach a 2° or 2.5° angle reduction
 
I will build a jig to hold the frame so I get an accurate change at the steering tube. There are several frames on eBay right now, I think I might try it at 29deg like the '79 frames instead of going all the way to 28.
 
Scoot does his fully assembled with the carb and the electrical componants near steering neck removed. No jig required and a come along to pull wheels together to get angle reduction.
 
Hmm....not a bad idea, but I am not going to use my original frame, I'll buy a bare eBay frame just in case I dont like the end result. I've got a lathe, mill, and lots of stuff to make simple jig pretty quickly.
 
scoott said:
I have an 83 250 xc with a 28 degree cut frame and a 83 500 cr with the same 28 degree steering head. Both have the 87-88 fork with gold valves and cut springs up front. ( I'm 6'3" and 220 lbs.) The rear shocks have the stiffest Ohlin spring, still available, and I revalved stiffer on rebound and compression.

I run the white plastic tank/seat combo because it is about 2" shorter, allowing me to get forward that much easier.

Top clamps are straight up Pro Taper's with the offset forward, and a tall oversize bar.

The 250 turns as good as a modern bike, the front end sticks with little or no headshake.

The 500 is not quite as nimble, but my buddy with multiple 490 Maico's says there is nothing his Maicos do as well as my 500. Turning, braking, power, rideability. ( The motor has been tinkered with also, cut the deck height, v-force reeds, recut head, cleaned up porting.)

It will not turn with my 83 480cr Honda, but what can? And it also doesn't shake it's head like the 480.

Frames are a dime a dozen, the frame mod is relatively straight forward, no cracks in paint after 4 years use.

I'm comparing to 2010 ktm 450 sxf and other modern bikes also. I ran the bikes in a 4 race team series last year,ranging from 6 to 12 to 24 hrs. No frame/suspension issues. Some crash damage from grandson wrecking the 500 and siezing the 250, crashed my 86 510 also. The 500 got the most time because it was the most competitive, and the modern riders really notice a twin shock 2-stroke passing them, not so much the 86 510 single shock 4-stroke. The 250 is fast in the corners, but slow in the straights.

The whole point is the Husky frames are made out of better materials than it's competitors and if you are competent, results are excellent. It's not for everyone, but it is a viable approach.
Click to expand...

Hey Scoot, I have a 1979 250wr and am looking to upgrade my front end. I see you mention 87-88 forks. Are the 80 or 81 40mm forks just as good? I am looking to send to racetech to have rebuilt and gold valved. Can you suggest to me anything else to improve what i am doing? I am looking to do a little evo racing on the bike. Let me know. also, are 2000-2006 front end's compatible?

Thanks Chris
 
1986and up forks are better. Less hang under the axle and they have replaceable bushings in the sliders, anything before 1983? or older does not
 
Kartwheel68 said:
Hmm....not a bad idea, but I am not going to use my original frame, I'll buy a bare eBay frame just in case I dont like the end result. I've got a lathe, mill, and lots of stuff to make simple jig pretty quickly.
Click to expand...

Shipping costs make experiments cost prohibitive. Try to find something local first
 
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