• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Midwest mountain engineering clutch lever

I noticed on mine that it was hitting the blinker/horn switch block when pulled in, my thinking was that the KTM's run a thinner width switch block so the bend in the lever clears, where as it fouls on the husky's so can't fully disengage the clutch, hence the creep. I loved the low effort of the MME lever but setting it right, the change in span between cold and hot engine and the fouling pissed me off enough to switch it out for an ARC clone lever.

Brake side I run a Brembo RCS15 master cylinder (supermoto spec) so can't comment on the brake lever.
 
The MME lever seems to like a lot of free play, after i first installed mine I didn't leave enough and it started slipping. I adjusted it to leave a 'feelable' amount of play and no problem since. I did have to move the switch gear a bit and also cut some of the donnut on the grip to allow for the shorter levers clearance but no more than a five minute job. Works great for me, 1-2 finger pull with ease means I can keep 3-4 fingers on the bars for better control and less fatigue.
 
Motosportz said:
Well thats not good, was all excited I got mine installed today for tomorrows ride. More leverage means more pull. I noticed mine works fine but had to adjust it as it want to creep when pulled in. We will see.
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Let me know how it goes, please.
 
I should add, I did have one other problem (apart from the blister I was getting) with my MME lever... With the switch block on the TE310R, the kill switch is on the back of the block. I had to rotate it to prevent the lever from depressing the switch. Found that out when my bike wouldn't start for no apparent reason. :)
 
Just got back from a medium sized group ride. Lever worked awesome. Was contemplating a autoclutch but no more. This thing made my bike far EZer to manage in tight stuff. Very smooth engagement, EZ to modulate right at engagement point, EZ to keep it just slightly slipping when needed. Was a very positive upgrade for me. It is not perfect. The longer better engagement means it is not 100% disengaged when pulled in and get a slight amount of drag. This is not a big deal for me and the clutch works so much nicer it is a simple trade off for me. Might be able to dial it out some. I also might take the grinder to it and reshape it some for my needs towards the end. We rode several gnarly trails that I usually would hate on this bike, slow tight off camber, slick etc. Bike worked awesome and I managed to gap a group of 2 and 4 stoke new KTMs down a gnarly trail. Was very happy. Just way EZer to control the power and keep it from stalling offering way more flow in the technical stuff.

I also got to play with my new ZipTy suspension more. It is a lowered shock and I move the forks up in the clamps lowering the front too. I have been riding 165/144 2 strokes for the last 2 months so it took a little reprogramming but ended up just loving my 511 today. Was thinking I had mad a mistake bringing it but a few miles in got in a groove and just had a nice good trail pace for the day.

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Cosmokenney said:
I'm having problems with my MME clutch lever. When the bike gets hot, the clutch slips. I set it up so there was a little free play to combat this. That helps, but that kills any chance of complete clutch disengagement. But when the bike gets hot, the free play is gone, and the clutch slips. It's most noticeable in third gear and you really punch it. I don't know how the OEM lever can prevent this from happening. I don't think its the lever engineering, though it could be that the hole for the piston rod was not milled correctly on mine. But now I'm paranoid that I'm going to send my clutch to an early grave.

I also had to file some material off of the brake lever in order to get it to seat enough to hit the brake light switch. This was because that part of the lever was curved and needed to mate with a right angle on the reservoir.

Steve seemed to have no idea if the levers would work for a Husky when I contacted him. And I think I ordered mine after you all did. Though he was very responsive and polite when I contacted him with my issues. But after I sent him pics of what was going on, and where I filed, he went silent. Pretty sure some ARCs are in my future. I should have listened to the Tinken when he recommended them. :banghead:
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Before today's ride I drove the reach adjustment screw all the way in to the lever. That gave me a fair amount more of play. Even with the bike hot I still had play. I didn't notice any slippage. So now I've got my bars and controls set up just the way I want them. The easier pull is a definite plus.
 
A hydraulic clutch engagement point should not change due to hot or cold, thats one of the cool features is not adjustment like a cable clutch. Once setup right you should have no issues. Might never changed engagement point all day.
 
I put an MME on my Te511. Worked good but since I have upgraded to EFMautoclutch. I now have no need for my MME lever. If interested in my used MME lever PM me.
 
Tinken said:
And when you get tired of experimenting with Mme, there's ARC. Tried, tested and proven to work no matter what. :D
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Curious if you guys have tried ASV's? Odd that two guys making identical product would have such similar company names!

I have one set of ASV's and one set or ARC's - and love them both. To be honest, they are SO similar in design I find it odd...maybe there is more to that.

The experience I have with the MME is very similar to this thread - a buddy got them and could not stop talking about them for 1000 flippin' miles to Colorado. On day two he took them off and went back to OEM...
 
bigmo said:
Curious if you guys have tried ASV's? Odd that two guys making identical product would have such similar company names!

I have one set of ASV's and one set or ARC's - and love them both. To be honest, they are SO similar in design I find it odd...maybe there is more to that.
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I believe AVS and ARC were the same company, an employee quit and started the other, it got messy and both are still here. Not 100% on that but think that's about right.

bigmo said:
The experience I have with the MME is very similar to this thread - a buddy got them and could not stop talking about them for 1000 flippin' miles to Colorado. On day two he took them off and went back to OEM...
Click to expand...

Why? So far I love my MME and it transformed my bike for tighter stuff. Way more control. Buddy with aKTM 350 just got one and loves it too.
 
That makes sense then about ARC and ASV - I really like both equally as well. I have one allow and one composite...not sure which is better but a solid 9/10 for sure.

As for my riding buddy...he's a whiny little snot (he'll read this at some point)... I think he kept mashing his finger when doing two finger pulls. He (like me) likes to have the engagement early. He took a spin on my bike with the ASV and loved the adjustability. I did not feel that the MME offered a noticeably lightened pull. Mine, on the other hand, is really nice - different bikes I know - but there was no comparison between the two.
 
On my 250 the pull is definitely lighter/smoother. Once I set it up correctly I didn't look back. Love it. The problem with finger pinching etc. is typically just a little bit of set up/tweaking. The lever is designed for a 2 finger pull (may be one) and to be pulled all the way to the grip. So when you mount it you may have to move it "in" a little more so it does clear your fingers. I also had to modify my grip and cut a piece of the donut to allow for free clutch lever movement.
 
I just wanted to re-iterate what some people are saying.

You have to play with the MME clutch lever and ensure the right amount of engage / disengage otherwise the clutch will slip. Once you adjust it correctly (remove some of the donut, adjustment screw all the way in), the lever works awesome and makes the bike way easier to control and manoeuvre.
 
Been riding my 511 with MME quite a big lately and love that lever. Amazing what real clutch control will do for you.
 
I sold my MMEs, only because I didn't like the fact that they don't flip backwards. I replaced them with some refurbished ASV Shorty Levers. They look brand new and I saved about $40 on the purchase IIRC. They are standard pull force, though, so I kind of miss the MME in that respect. But the shorty aspect kind of makes up for it.
 
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