• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

More clutch issues.

DIRTBIKE

DIRTBIKE

Husqvarna
AA Class
Hi all i'm having a big problem with the clutch on my TE610. As some of you may remember i've done the clutch spring cup/washer mod some 6 or so months ago/1500km's ago, i was the one who used the allen head screws instead of rivets. Anyhow that is all looking like new still and unrelated to the issue i have now so here's the story.

Two months ago i noticed over three short 15km trips too and from work that my clutch was losing its adjustment and not disengageing properly making it very difficult to find gears and more importantly neutral which is'nt alot of fun in traffic. This happened a few times becoming worse every time and when i'd run out of adjustment at the clutch perch i realised i better get off my lazy ass and have a look what is going on here. Having 10,000km's on the bike now and a worn clutch perch/lever assembly the first thing i looked at was the cable. Sure enough it was only holding on by a few strands of wire due to wearing on the insde of the perch where it was rubbing when you pull the clutch lever in. Thinking it was these few strands of wire stretching and the wear in the perch/lever not allowing the clutch arm to be pulled far enough to push the push rod far enough to push the pressure plate of the clutch pack stopping the clutch disengageing properly i convinced myself this was the problem.
Just to make sure i removed the rh side case and pulled the clutch and confirmed this was my problem. Since i was in there already i removed the basket to check on the spring cups which as i have mentioned are holding up very well and for excessive grooves in the basket fingers which could be adding to the problem. Finding the fingers slightly worn i cleaned them up with a fine file and the next week i ordered a new clutch perch/lever and cable.

So a month goes by and my parts finally get here from italy, yeah thats right my local Husky dealer assured me they didnt have any in the country when i ordered the parts, wtf. Now as you could imagine iv'e replaced the parts and still have the problem which explains my telling this story, and yes i do have the cable routed correctly. I'm in the middle of getting myself a workshop manual so i can see what other parts may come into play here. All i can put it down to is a problem between the clutch arm and pressure plate. Anybody ever had a problem like this?, any feedback would be greatly appreciated.
 
There have been several 610's that have twisted the clutch arm, sometimes in half, that would be where I would look first.

Your cable probably failed because you maxed out adjustment chasing the clutch arm as it continues to deform.
 
The gen2 Kaw ZX9 had a recall/problem with the push rod suddenly clearancing themselves and loosing all clutch. I had 2-3 do this to me while holding the clutch in after a dyno pull. I notice that on the 630 at least they use a similar looking part.



.
 
I had a similar problem and thought it was the activator arm which is well documented failure - turned out to be the cable was going. I then, like you, also did the cup washers while apart and also dressed the basket. Put it all together and had a very similar symptom to yours and no more adjustment. Pulled it again and adjusted the pressure rod - a little adjustment on the rod translates to a a big difference in lever pull. Look at this as a possible solution and also that you have not lost the ball bearing from inside the rod.
 
The ball bearing is there still and i have tried adjusting the adjustment screw on the end of the rod with no success. Like i said, this all started happening very suddenly, it went from having a good clutch to running out of adjustment and not being able to disengage the clutch in just three short rides. The problem can only be in the arm/rod area where the arm goes inside the case. Im waiting on a manual to see how and what i have to do to fix this. Does'nt look like i can fix it without splitting the cases either which (please prove me wrong) would not make me happy.
 
Then definately sounds like the activator arm failure - quite an easy fix and well documented here on CH. You need to pull it to check - no case splitting just cover.
 
I have a 2006 sm610. Same thing happened to me. I would definitely check the activator arm. Like big Dom says.

It will probably look like this:

f3a88b0c.jpg


Brian
 
Awesome thats what it will be. Now my next question, how do i remove the activator arm.

Thanks heaps for all the help too guys.
 
Just dropped in at my Husky dealer on the way home from work and got a price on a new actuator arm. The gentleman behind the counter kindly advised me that i better sit down before he told me it will cost $290 and a three week wait from Italy. Needless to say i will be ordering one online from somewhere NOT Australia, please dont give me the ''you're putting them out of business'' speach.
 
If it is the actuator arm some have even welded them successfully. If you want new Halls is probably the best deal and really not difficult to do yourself - it just pulls out once rod is removed.
 
I had the one in that pic I posted, welded. Still in my bike to this day. Over 10 k miles. No problems.

Brian
 
motoxotica.com can probably set you up, too. They don't have online ordering, but give them a call. They often have parts for slightly older bikes in stock.
 
Alright so i've contacted Hall's and they got back to me with a price of $140 delivered. Thats more like it, but before i order it i will remove the one from my bike and see how bad it is bent/cracked and if i can get a good weld on it and it's straight enough i might just throw it back in and see how it goes. If it's too far gone at least i have the cheaper option of ordering one from Hall's. When and if i order the activator arm i might just order a new timing chain as well and then i should have ticked off everything on the ''things to do'' list these 610's come with.
 
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