• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

My 1986 400 XC Build Thread

Q

Quimo

Husqvarna
B Class
I decided to just start a thread dedicated to this project as I am running into sufficient issues to warrant just keeping it all in one place. I will update with some pictures of the bike as soon as I can. Full disclosure, I am not looking to "restore" the bike. I am looking for a rideable, reliableish bike that makes me smile. I love the motor and really want to make this thing work for me.

The issue I am dealing with right now is with the installation of a FMF universal silencer. I just assumed that the silencer would more or less slip on without much trouble, but it seems that the stock exhaust pipe is larger than what FMF envisioned when they designed their silencer. I know I have seen others install these on similar bikes and just wondering what you all utilized to facilitate coupling the silencer to the exhaust.
 
i always used factory ones, they work fine
you can use an 87 and they are a lot quieter, as I recall one mount needs a mod
 
I have the original silencer, but it is in less than ideal shape. I am going to return the FMF and just live with what I have.

Moving on to the clutch cover. I previously posted about pump pitting and milky oil and have since decided to order a new aluminum cover, pump housing, and shaft seals. The bike was leaking transmission fluid like a champ even after I installed a new gasket. After closer inspection it looks like there is a bit of a gap on the right (shift lever) side of the cover where it connects to the case. I previously read on a thread that the return spring can sometimes get in the way and when I opened her up again I noticed that the one in here was bent quite a bit (see attached). IS THE PIN ON THE COVER SUPPOSED TO GO INBETWEEN THE TWO ARMS OF THE SPRING OR TO THE SIDE? I also noticed a crack in the case (see attached). It does not seem to be a major crack and I have not seen any dirt on the inside or oil on the outside. IS THIS SOMETHING TO BE CONCERNED ABOUT RIGHT NOW? ANY EASY FIXES? Any help or advice is greatly appreciated.
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IS THE PIN ON THE COVER SUPPOSED TO GO INBETWEEN THE TWO ARMS OF THE SPRING OR TO THE SIDE?

YES

I also noticed a crack in the case (see attached). It does not seem to be a major crack and I have not seen any dirt on the inside or oil on the outside. IS THIS SOMETHING TO BE CONCERNED ABOUT RIGHT NOW? ANY EASY FIXES?

Chances are the crack will get longer/grow with time.
Only one correct way to fix it is to remove the motor, split the cases, and weld it up and machine flat the gasket surface. Or replace the case half. Consider yourself lucky as it is not cracked at the dowel pin hole. I had an 87 430CR that had a crack near that same area and I road the bike that way for 4 or 5 years. Eventually I pulled the motor and just replace the case half with a good one.
 
that swingarm should not be contacting the engine cases. looks to me like you have bigger problems with that swingarm.
 
It may just be the slight angle on the picture. Just went out and checked and there is about a 2mm gap between swing arm and case.
 
The outside clutch cover should fit on semi snug, the shift mechanism may have not been positioned
right & some one cranked down on the bolts anyway, causing your crack & maybe your leak. Clean
the case off real good & that side of the motor, put the side case with no gasket and see if you see any
gaps with a bright light. It maybe leaking out the shifter, there's a seal there, you need to make sure
there are good mating surfaces.

Now about the crack, take a file & make a small groove in the area where the crack is. Buy/mix up some
JB Weld or the like & fill in the groove & crack, let it dry, i've fixed worst.

One of the biggest problems, on these models is the swingarm cracking, where the pivot bolt goes thru,
the grease drys up & sand/dirt & NO grease makes for lot of stress, causing them to break. But that's
for after you fix the side cover problems.

Great bike, awesome motor & woods bike.
 
Can someone recommend a good adhesive to use for the rubber bump stop for the Kickstarter? I tried a contact adhesive I’ve used with some success in the past but it came loose pretty quickly. I am working with an aluminum case.
 
I stand corrected the early ones did not have that
since I had a huge cache of 87 covers I forgot the early stuff
 
Pull your clutch off, almost or most of time this can start with a kick back on starting. This is first place to look, look at the gear on back of clutch ring gear, this also cans be worn( most are)
and take a look at your needle bearings in idle and kick gear. This crack is almost a normal find. It can be welded but not all welders can weld magnesium.
 
New clutch is definitely on the short list, will inspect everything closely when I do.

Now that the bike is running good the lack of performance out of the rear shock is painfully obvious. It’s basically just a spring giving me a jolt occasionally. Does anyone still rebuild these things? Options for replacing the rear shock?
 
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