• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

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    Thanks for your patience and support!

My 82 250 XC stoped Shifting into 3rd Gear

1982 XC 430

Husqvarna
AA Class
So I recently replace the Clutch Plates with the Barnett ones and also Used one of the replacement Clutch covers. So I rode the Bike for a couple of Hours this last weekend and I did it all in 1-2 Gear cause it wouldn't go into 3rd. So I removed the Cover and Clutch and don't see anything I did wrong. My Clutch-Cover project was done right near the Shifting Mechinisim but I never did anything with it. However I'm sure that someting must of changed to do this. But if the Shifting Mechinism works for 1-2 then it should be Ok for the rest of the gears. Next step is Spliting the Cases and I don't want to do that if I don't need to. Thanx in advance....
 
So I recently replace the Clutch Plates with the Barnett ones and also Used one of the replacement Clutch covers. So I rode the Bike for a couple of Hours this last weekend and I did it all in 1-2 Gear cause it wouldn't go into 3rd. So I removed the Cover and Clutch and don't see anything I did wrong. My Clutch-Cover project was done right near the Shifting Mechinisim but I never did anything with it. However I'm sure that someting must of changed to do this. But if the Shifting Mechinism works for 1-2 then it should be Ok for the rest of the gears. Next step is Spliting the Cases and I don't want to do that if I don't need to. Thanx in advance....
Barnett clutches are absolutely the worst clutches on the face of the planet. It's too bad that they are the only ones we can get for our bikes.

With that being said, try installing the stock husky clutch springs. Once of the biggest problem with Barnetts (beside the fact the clutches only last one to two rides) is the clutch springs they provide you with are really weak. This problem has nothing to do with the bike at all, it's all around the crappy Barnett clutch. No need to split cases.

My father installed a Barnett is his trail maintenance bike ('96 Honda XR200) and it wouldn't shift into gear and the clutch slipped once in gear. He swapped in the stock clutch springs and it's been fine ever since. Granted the bike only makes about 3 HP so I can't boast about how well they handle power other than the fact that someone @ his shop installed a Barnette clutch and it only lasted one race.
 
Well I didn't get the Springs so I used the Stock Springs I had. I'm useing the White ones. I also used the later longer Clutch pull lever at the Engine and the Clutch felt fine. I'm one of those Guys who dosn't use the Clutch all that much as I ride. So even if there was a problem with the Clutch it should still shift into the upper Gears.
 
Did you install the clutch stack into the basket the correct way? The first one to go in is always the largest one. A lot of people mistake the first one for the one furthest to the outside and or "last" one so the clutch stack is backwards.
 
Might look at the stepfeeder and drum. If the stepfeeder gets worn and the pins on the drum gets worn it may not turn the drum to shift. Does the shifter want to move like its normally shifting? Or is just coming up hard?
 
I can see where you are going but he started having this probem when and ONLY when he installed the Barnett clutch. If he is now having an issue and the only thing he changed was the clutch, it's the clutch.

When diagnosing you always look to the last thing that was done if there's an imediate problem after work is performed.
 
I can see where you are going but he started having this probem when and ONLY when he installed the Barnett clutch. If he is now having an issue and the only thing he changed was the clutch, it's the clutch.

When diagnosing you always look to the last thing that was done if there's an imediate problem after work is performed.

Thank you for the reminder on troubleshooting. Please explain how the clutch would prevent shifting? The clutch should'nt have anything to do with the mechanical shifting. I had the release bearing come apart on mine not allowing the clutch to release. Rode the last leg 25 miles of a desert race with it, no shifting problems. Load it up when you come down this weekend and we'll look at it.
 
Thanx for the input. Well I have come to the Conclusion that there is nothing wrong inside the Cases. I have a spare 430 Lower end and I played around with it for a wile and my 250 seems to do everything the same. By putting the 250 on a Stand and removing the Clutch Cover and spining the rear Tire I can Shift threw all the Gears. Then when I put the Clutch Cover back on it dosn't want to go past 2nd again. Remember I used the replacement Clutch Cover. So what seems to be happening is the the Shifter is staying up and not returning to center so the Stepfeeder is not in the right Position to turn the Drum for the next Gear. If You reverse the direction this dosn't matter thats why it goes from 1st to Second just fine. When up shifting if I center the shifter after each Gear it seems to work OK. So whats wrong? Well the replacement cover could have the Shifter Hole in the wrong spot putting it in a bind. But if it is its not by much the Shifter moves freely. Or the Spring is weak and not doing its job re setting the stepfeeder. Or all the Old Parts are Old and weak and the New Cover is new and tight. The New Cover has a Bronze Bushing its nicely done. Are there any more Springs inside the Case besides the one on the Outside. I stole one out of my spare 430 and tryed it but it didn't change anything. Anybody else have any Idea's.
 
Did you install the clutch stack into the basket the correct way? The first one to go in is always the largest one. A lot of people mistake the first one for the one furthest to the outside and or "last" one so the clutch stack is backwards.

OK so now You have me wondering. All the Fiber Plates are the Same and all the Steel ones are the same to right? So as long as you end up with a Fiber one first in the basket and also last with a Steel Plate in between them its all good right? 29.7 mm is what my stack is by the way. Anyway the Clutch works OK and shouldn't effect shifting. I'm one of those Guys who dosn't use the Clutch Much when rideing anyway.
 
Thank you for the reminder on troubleshooting. Please explain how the clutch would prevent shifting? The clutch should'nt have anything to do with the mechanical shifting. I had the release bearing come apart on mine not allowing the clutch to release. Rode the last leg 25 miles of a desert race with it, no shifting problems. Load it up when you come down this weekend and we'll look at it.
Perhaps bad pressure plates or installed in the wrong position thus holding them apart from the friction plates. Just an idea, that would act more or less like no clutch at all though.
 
Thanx for the input. Well I have come to the Conclusion that there is nothing wrong inside the Cases. I have a spare 430 Lower end and I played around with it for a wile and my 250 seems to do everything the same. By putting the 250 on a Stand and removing the Clutch Cover and spining the rear Tire I can Shift threw all the Gears. Then when I put the Clutch Cover back on it dosn't want to go past 2nd again. Remember I used the replacement Clutch Cover. So what seems to be happening is the the Shifter is staying up and not returning to center so the Stepfeeder is not in the right Position to turn the Drum for the next Gear. If You reverse the direction this dosn't matter thats why it goes from 1st to Second just fine. When up shifting if I center the shifter after each Gear it seems to work OK. So whats wrong? Well the replacement cover could have the Shifter Hole in the wrong spot putting it in a bind. But if it is its not by much the Shifter moves freely. Or the Spring is weak and not doing its job re setting the stepfeeder. Or all the Old Parts are Old and weak and the New Cover is new and tight. The New Cover has a Bronze Bushing its nicely done. Are there any more Springs inside the Case besides the one on the Outside. I stole one out of my spare 430 and tryed it but it didn't change anything. Anybody else have any Idea's.
Makes sense, but remember if the clutch cover isn't tourqed down EXACTLY as it should be it will act very very weird. These bikes are extremely finicky and they actually use the distance the gasket gets crushed under the proper torque to achieve proper backlash on the tranny. Make sure you are tightening to proper specs and in the right dynamic torque pattern.
 
OK so now You have me wondering. All the Fiber Plates are the Same and all the Steel ones are the same to right? So as long as you end up with a Fiber one first in the basket and also last with a Steel Plate in between them its all good right? 29.7 mm is what my stack is by the way. Anyway the Clutch works OK and shouldn't effect shifting. I'm one of those Guys who dosn't use the Clutch Much when rideing anyway.
Usually the very first plate you install is larger than the others but not always.

And as I said an improper torquing procedure and or bad pressure plates may procure you from shifting. I too don't use my clutch to shift.

As I said before, look at the last thing you did. You changed the clutch and clutch cover. Regardless of anything else you may think, it's most likely 99% one of those two things causing an issue. If the components are correct then it's your procedure you used for re-assembly that was wrong.

Also make sure your cable has some slack, when installing a new clutch the cable has to be adjusted to suit.
 
That's just what I've heard from others around about the clutch cover. And regardless of that do you know what a dynamic TQ pattern is? Anytime you TQ something you don't just start at one bolt and work around the outside. Cross pattern, dynamic pattern, call it what you want it's all the same thing.

Maybe I got confused with the center cases when you TQ those down.

Either way, the root of his problems may be if he got the clutch cover from HVA.
 
Extremely finicky? Backlash? Dynamic torque pattern? 32 years working on Huskys and I never knew this. The wealth of knowledge and experience here is amazing.
Yes it is!
On another clutch note: I had a clutch basket that had alot of wear on it were the first friction plate runs against it. The splines were still good on the basket so I decided to try to save it and improve it also. I machined the basket splines lower on my mill so I could restore that area with an extra steel clutch plate. This also restored the stack height and provided a wear free condition for the basket face.

I have ran Barnett clutches since the eighties with very few issues. One thing I always do is deburr the splines on the plates to insure a free float on the basket splines. Also make sure the basket splines are not worn too bad Since heat is an issue what I found was the plates wanting to "stick" on the drum causing heat to damage the clutch, heat warp the steels by not allowing the clutch pressure plate to provide enough clamping force, hence clutch slip.
 
Yes I do have the dreaded HVA Cover but I am not going to blame it as of yet. I beleive that I have one of the newer ones they have out as I have read about some of the problems others have had and I think mine is a revised version. The Shifter dose not seem to be in a bind and the way it fits into the receiver it shouldnt effect the Shifting if it did. Yes my next thing to try is a spare stock cover I have and if that makes a diffrence then I'm going to have a better look at the HVA. I'm an Engineer in the Marine Fishing Industry and I agree that 99% of the time its what ever You just did that's causing the problem. The last time it Shifted right it had a Stock Cover (Cracked) on it.
 
OK so the Stock cover works better. Its the first time this Cover has ever been on This paticular Engine. The Shifter hole is worn sloppy and probably ready for a bushing wich would probably make it work just like the HVA one. What I really need is a brand new Shifter return Spring and it looks like most of my usual Parts Supplers are out at the moment. Called Vintage Husky and Husqvarnaparts.com has em on back order. Waiting for a few calls back tomorow.
 
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