• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

My bike will be here any second!

get the wheels balanced if you are going to ride over 55mph on the street very much.
 
Thanks for the suggestions! I am going to order a supermoto setup anyways and hopefully have the components to swap wheels in ~1hr. My knobs are also going to hell rather quickly, and you are right it will spin the knobs in the first couple gears. When it is damp at night or early morning it is a bit sketchy!

Are you sure the 17's lowered it 3 inches?? Seems like way too much?
 
Also I will definitely get the wheels balanced at the next knobby tire change....Which will be in about 2 weeks apparently ;)
 
The stock set up is 21 front and 18 inch rear. The motard set up is 17 inch for both so yeah it will lower the bike at least 3 inches. Stock it was pretty tall and I'm 6 foot tall. Now it's quite a bit lower way easier to mount dis mount. The biggest advantage was now it doesn't feel like im riding on marbles. With the 40 tooth rear sprocket first gear is nice and tall perfect for the street. It will still do third gear power wheelies too. The fmf power core 4 makes a huge difference in power. It will be lean though so the Akro map 3 is a must and really wakes her up. I took the charcoal can off mine too (drivers side of bike) and routed the gas tank overflow down by the swingarm and capped off the vacuum line. Running Mobil 1 0w-40 after first oil change, motor is quieter and goes into neutral easier now (thanks Tinken). I haven't had any issues with the oil air box thing and I keep the oil level 3/4 in the sight glass when it's warmed up. Great bike bro, awesome choice.
 
I measured and it seems only like it will lower 1.5" unless I am missing something :P

I think I will do the 15/40 gearing with the warp 9 wheels like you did. I have been jumping and beating this hell out of this bike in a urban environment....and have only used 2/3 of its total front suspension travel.
 
Only half the wheel/tire is between the axle and ground :-)
21-17= 4 divide by 2 = 2
18-17= 1 divide by 2 = 1
Average of 2 and 1 is 1.5
Of course the tire height is another factor that could raise or lower the bike a bit.
 
I did the 449 first and then the 511. Maybe the 511 was taller stock than the 449 but I measured the bikes (449 motard, 511 stock) it lowered the 449 about 3 inches. The road tires are low profile, could of been a difference in stock heights? I need to cut the kick stands down now cause they're too long, bikes barely balance now when kick stands are down. Probably cut 2 maybe 3 inches off and reweld foot back on.
 
I ordered the warp 9 setup, should be here in a couple weeks. Also got a fmf slip on, and power commander V.

I need to get a tc airbox lid and the smr511 front fender, if anyone has a line on a easy place to get these?
 
Wow your all over this :thumbsup: Bills (BMP) dealer can send you that stuff out quickly and are a great guys to deal with. They are in oregon, not sure where you are.
 
Northern California.

I was thinking of calling bills, but need to let the "mod" fund regenerate a bit :) I sold my car and am using the te511 as my main transportation. My girlfriend has a car I can use if needed, and my ducati is fine for long trips.

This TE is just a blast! I love the dual sport wheels a lot, until I get to the twisties and slip and slide allover on the throttle...
 
If ur gonna be in the dirt u probably shouldn't take to much away from ur suspension , I have a 12 te 310 and I am 5'10 , I can only get one foot down and that's fine you will get used to it . Very nice bike enjoy .
 
I've had my 2014 for 3 weeks. I want to do the motard thing, but for now, just changed tires to Kenda "big block" front and rear, and Seat Concepts foam and cover, and rear sprocket down from 51 to 47. It's MUCH nicer on the street now. I may drop the sprocket to 45 to get a 10% change in ratio. Right now I'm at 8% change from stock. I really like that look Teambowles. Just need to come up with a thousand clams plus dollars for tires and tubes. Then I'll be good.

Really glad I found this site. Learning stuff and sharing stuff is fun! Man, the new seat is WAY better than the stock seat. And, on the topic of height, I'm 6'4" tall, and can just barely put both feet flat on the ground sitting. It's a tall bike, and I really like that. For me, it's great.
 
TomGlander said:
I've had my 2014 for 3 weeks. I want to do the motard thing, but for now, just changed tires to Kenda "big block" front and rear, and Seat Concepts foam and cover, and rear sprocket down from 51 to 47. It's MUCH nicer on the street now. I may drop the sprocket to 45 to get a 10% change in ratio. Right now I'm at 8% change from stock. I really like that look Teambowles. Just need to come up with a thousand clams plus dollars for tires and tubes. Then I'll be good.

Really glad I found this site. Learning stuff and sharing stuff is fun! Man, the new seat is WAY better than the stock seat. And, on the topic of height, I'm 6'4" tall, and can just barely put both feet flat on the ground sitting. It's a tall bike, and I really like that. For me, it's great.
Click to expand...
Hey thank you sir....They are really fun bikes for the street once you do the mods IMO. In the dirt it would be a handful, but a blast. If i remember correctly I paid $1200 for everything, tires, rims, rotors, etc....the seat could be better, im gonna look at something in the near future. Frequent oil changes are a must, Tinken from Zipty has a vast knowledge of these bikes and helped me out tremendously. In fact all the sponsors on here are great and I would go to them for parts or questions! Enjoy the bike man especially now that spring has arrived.....
 
Its fun time!

after blasting around in the dirt I realize its too big and powerful for my skillset. So im off to get a 125 green sticker 2 smoker.

Took everything apart at 570 miles. Yall should grease your swingarm bearings as mine was lacking in the grease department.

Going to get the suspension reworked and setup for supermoto soon.


Also removing the airbox and fitting a podfilter/ zip ty map 3, check the valves, and fitting breather.

I may try removing the secondary butterfly. There is some vague mention of this on here....I need moe power :)
 

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huskylove said:
Its fun time!

after blasting around in the dirt I realize its too big and powerful for my skillset. So im off to get a 125 green sticker 2 smoker.

Took everything apart at 570 miles. Yall should grease your swingarm bearings as mine was lacking in the grease department.

Going to get the suspension reworked and setup for supermoto soon.


Also removing the airbox and fitting a podfilter/ zip ty map 3, check the valves, and fitting breather.

I may try removing the secondary butterfly. There is some vague mention of this on here....I need moe power :)
Click to expand...
Holy crap thats a tear down lol. Ya gotta do the map 3, youve been talking about it for a while now, big difference. You get the flame outs taken care of? Mine are gone now after tps reset, 5 1/4 turns out from all the way in on big brass screw. Ya know whats really funny, my 449 will pull my 511 by about 1 1/2 bike lengths from a first gear rolling start then they even out and 511 pulls back in 5th gear but doesnt over take 449. Not sure why both have same mods but 449 spins faster and revs higher fo sure.
 
I have the power commander and auto tuner and it is running perfect. But yes, I will be getting map 3 and resetting the PC/auto tuner and starting over with a new auto tune map on the modified intake tract.

I get 0 flame outs with the airscrew turned out and the idle about 2000rpm. Unfortunately I also have no engine braking and it feels a bit buzzy sitting at a stop light.

My bike RIPS now that the auto tuner has had a week of solid riding to adjust. It just goes man. Really a blast. But with supermoto wheels and the taller gearing I will need a bit more power to pull out of corners. I have this issue lets say in 6th gear at 45-50 so not really lugging the engine but definitely where you would downshift. IF I leave a corner leaned off the bike and go wide open throttle quickly : instead of pulling it "bogs" like the throttle is being opened very slowly or "rolling on".

It is weird and I can feel it when geared up a bit. I think this is why this bike lacks any kind of "snap". When offroad it always acts like the throttle is "rolled on". It doesn't snap like a carbed bike does. We are splitting hairs here/ most probably would not notice, but there is definitely something weird about this FI system that is making me wonder.

I am a firm believer that the second throttle plate in the throttle body is opening "slowly". When you start the bike that plate is closed, like a choke. I am not sure why as with fuel injection it should not need a "choke" to start? I never ever get a fire from the first crank and with the airbox and neck removed I can see a backfire through the intake when it stalls trying to start....I am going to simply unscrew the screws and remove the plate, and note the performance change. Then put it back if there is a negative affect. I guess I should first let it run and see if that plate opens full once the bike warms up?

If anyone has any kind of info on this let me know!
 
huskylove said:
I have the power commander and auto tuner and it is running perfect. But yes, I will be getting map 3 and resetting the PC/auto tuner and starting over with a new auto tune map on the modified intake tract.

I get 0 flame outs with the airscrew turned out and the idle about 2000rpm. Unfortunately I also have no engine braking and it feels a bit buzzy sitting at a stop light.

My bike RIPS now that the auto tuner has had a week of solid riding to adjust. It just goes man. Really a blast. But with supermoto wheels and the taller gearing I will need a bit more power to pull out of corners. I have this issue lets say in 6th gear at 45-50 so not really lugging the engine but definitely where you would downshift. IF I leave a corner leaned off the bike and go wide open throttle quickly : instead of pulling it "bogs" like the throttle is being opened very slowly or "rolling on".

It is weird and I can feel it when geared up a bit. I think this is why this bike lacks any kind of "snap". When offroad it always acts like the throttle is "rolled on". It doesn't snap like a carbed bike does. We are splitting hairs here/ most probably would not notice, but there is definitely something weird about this FI system that is making me wonder.

I am a firm believer that the second throttle plate in the throttle body is opening "slowly". When you start the bike that plate is closed, like a choke. I am not sure why as with fuel injection it should not need a "choke" to start? I never ever get a fire from the first crank and with the airbox and neck removed I can see a backfire through the intake when it stalls trying to start....I am going to simply unscrew the screws and remove the plate, and note the performance change. Then put it back if there is a negative affect. I guess I should first let it run and see if that plate opens full once the bike warms up?

If anyone has any kind of info on this let me know!
Click to expand...
Yeah I noticed the same thing when I had the big brass screw turned too far out, it felt like it wouldnt unrev. I matched the screw to my 449 did tps reset and put the fmf core back in that came with the pipe and no more flameouts. Tinken was saying it needs back pressure so core in, also someone was saying 2 1/4 turns out but at that setting mine wasnt running right. I dont have the PCV but map 3 was a big improvement for mine. I played with that damn screw alot and noticed theres a fine line to the unrev thing and it running correctly or flameouts,
 
huskylove said:
I have the power commander and auto tuner and it is running perfect. But yes, I will be getting map 3 and resetting the PC/auto tuner and starting over with a new auto tune map on the modified intake tract.

I get 0 flame outs with the airscrew turned out and the idle about 2000rpm. Unfortunately I also have no engine braking and it feels a bit buzzy sitting at a stop light.

My bike RIPS now that the auto tuner has had a week of solid riding to adjust. It just goes man. Really a blast. But with supermoto wheels and the taller gearing I will need a bit more power to pull out of corners. I have this issue lets say in 6th gear at 45-50 so not really lugging the engine but definitely where you would downshift. IF I leave a corner leaned off the bike and go wide open throttle quickly : instead of pulling it "bogs" like the throttle is being opened very slowly or "rolling on".

It is weird and I can feel it when geared up a bit. I think this is why this bike lacks any kind of "snap". When offroad it always acts like the throttle is "rolled on". It doesn't snap like a carbed bike does. We are splitting hairs here/ most probably would not notice, but there is definitely something weird about this FI system that is making me wonder.

I am a firm believer that the second throttle plate in the throttle body is opening "slowly". When you start the bike that plate is closed, like a choke. I am not sure why as with fuel injection it should not need a "choke" to start? I never ever get a fire from the first crank and with the airbox and neck removed I can see a backfire through the intake when it stalls trying to start....I am going to simply unscrew the screws and remove the plate, and note the performance change. Then put it back if there is a negative affect. I guess I should first let it run and see if that plate opens full once the bike warms up?

If anyone has any kind of info on this let me know!
Click to expand...

I've got map #3. The bike is still very hard to start unless I use Chevron Supreme 91 + StarTron + Octane Booster. Even then I have to blip the starter to prime the pump when the bike is cold. No other 91 Octane gas works. But with the chemical cocktail mentioned, and the starter blip, the bike starts first try and stays started and purrs to a smooth idle. Also without the Chevron gas it runs pretty much like the original map 2.
 
EXACTLY!

I think map 3 as my base will help a bunch. Then try to auto tune for my specific mods.

Not sure how much you wash or ride your bike, but I recommend dropping the shock out/down and greasing the bearings. My top shock bearing if I had not taken it apart would have not lasted too long. I think it was packed with cheap/no good grease from the factory.
 
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