• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

My new project.....83 430WR

Panerai

Panerai

Husqvarna
AA Class
I posted a month or so back asking questions about a 79 390OR I was considering buying but ended up passing on that bike because of a few unknowns. I'm glad I did now! I found a nice complete 430WR that I plan on going through this winter to get ready to ride in the spring :)

Plans are to make it look like the 82 and earlier bikes...silver frame, tank painted like the ealier bikes etc.....

I'm sure I will have lots of questions along the way and will post up pics as the rebuild moves along......

Mike
 

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The guy I bought it off of said it was running when he parked it. It has set for a couple years and the carb pretty gunked up. But I don't think it will take much to get it going.. We will see
 
i've also got a 83 430WR and it's a great bike- let me know what questions come up and I'll do what I can to help

Rich
 
Yippee another 430 gets revived!

we are in the mood to help ya dude.

Lot`s of great people and info. on this forum, gotta love it.
 
Thanks to everyone!

for the enthusiasm and support...........

I got it all stripped down last weekend and I'm going to drop the frame off to be sandblasted and powder coated next week... Will post up some pics as I start to go back together.

Mike
 
Going back together............

Got the frame back from powder coating a couple weeks back and started putting her back together. Next up is to get the front forks apart so I can replace the seals.

Any words of caution or advice when taking the forks apart?

Mike
 

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I have a 81 430 XC and I am wondering how similar thes 83's are to mine? Engine looks the same along with many other parts. I notice there is a 83 manual PDF on this site and was wondering if I could get any use out of it?
 
Panerai,
Nice start. Post up what your working on. The whole community is interested and watching for progress.
Rick
 
Congrats!

If you want, I have the Dirt Bike Magazine with the full test of that bike, i can scan and post the PDF if you would like.

HR
 
hawaii-rider;78130 said:
Congrats!

If you want, I have the Dirt Bike Magazine with the full test of that bike, i can scan and post the PDF if you would like.

HR
Click to expand...

That would be great......I would love to read the article

Thanks

Mike
 
Panerai;77880 said:
Got the frame back from powder coating a couple weeks back and started putting her back together. Mike
Click to expand...

Looks stinkin' great Mike! On this computer, though, I can't tell if you went silver or white on the frame? If possible, would also be nice to know the paint source/code. Thanks man. Nice job.

A fork trick that I like for virtually all of the 40mm fork bikes:
Find a spring guy and have him cut the springs and refinish the ends.
Cut them so that you have about 1/4" of spring preload when they're installed with a 3" PVC spacer between the top of the spring and the fork cap. So - you're cutting roughly 4" off the spring (measure first - the stock springs varied a bit in length and will have sacked out some). Works wonders. More supple on the small stuff and less bottoming. A good starting point for oil is 10wt. filled 6" from the top with springs out and forks collapsed. The perfect setting will depend on how you ride and your weight, of course, but this'll get you much closer than stock.
 
Picklito;78267 said:
A fork trick that I like for virtually all of the 40mm fork bikes:
Find a spring guy and have him cut the springs and refinish the ends.
Cut them so that you have about 1/4" of spring preload when they're installed with a 3" PVC spacer between the top of the spring and the fork cap. So - you're cutting roughly 4" off the spring (measure first - the stock springs varied a bit in length and will have sacked out some). Works wonders. More supple on the small stuff and less bottoming. A good starting point for oil is 10wt. filled 6" from the top with springs out and forks collapsed.
Click to expand...


Back when ATK was a guy named Horst and did suspension stuff, He sold a kit for 40mm forks that did just that:thumbsup:......even had the PVC spacers.:applause: Had one BITD on my 83's. For woods I used to mix a bottle of 10 wt and a bottle of 5wt to make "Joes custom blend 7.5 wt"!:doh: Also ran 6.5 inches but read on.:D

Then again I was 145 pounds soaking wet on an XC500.

I second this as it works. Make sure before filling that with springs out, and dampner rod bolt slightly loose, you Slide/compress each for tube all the way up severl times and rotateing them to ensure they "center" themselves in the travel to prevent slight stiction. (wheel off bike)

Joe
 
Great stuff guys.....thanks

Picklito;78267 said:
Looks stinkin' great Mike! On this computer, though, I can't tell if you went silver or white on the frame? If possible, would also be nice to know the paint source/code. Thanks man. Nice job.

A fork trick that I like for virtually all of the 40mm fork bikes:
Find a spring guy and have him cut the springs and refinish the ends.
Cut them so that you have about 1/4" of spring preload when they're installed with a 3" PVC spacer between the top of the spring and the fork cap. So - you're cutting roughly 4" off the spring (measure first - the stock springs varied a bit in length and will have sacked out some). Works wonders. More supple on the small stuff and less bottoming. A good starting point for oil is 10wt. filled 6" from the top with springs out and forks collapsed. The perfect setting will depend on how you ride and your weight, of course, but this'll get you much closer than stock.
Click to expand...

Picklito... the frame is silver. I'm really pleased with the way it turned out. It was done by a friend or a friend sandblast and powdercoat trade for a case of beer...... I don't care who ya are that's a great deal right!

Anyway I'm not sure about the color code but will try and find out. I was not to picky and just ask him to do it a silver/gray that had no metal flake in it. I think the color looks pretty good unless one was doing a true restoration. As you can tell with this project I'm not too concerned for it to be period correct. Just a fun clean rider.

Thanks again guys about the fork spring tip..... I may go that route and have more questions about that mod....just need to get them apart first.
 
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