• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

My thoughts on the Pirelli DOT MT43 trails tires...

That was my feeling as well but you never know till you try one.

Shinko bought out Yokohama, and I used to really like Yokohama back in the 80s. I ran a lot of their knobbies on my motocross bikes and later in the early 90s I ran the 003 road race series on my FZR. Shinko hasn't lost any of the quality of the former manufacturer's product as near as I can tell.
I like new things...trials tire, I'm on my second one so it's still kinda new, I ordered a brake line for a rear hand brake to replace the clutch lever on that orange thing (thanks gonna be really weird & new at the same time) & that orange thing is new to me 4 rides so far.... Like I said about the Shiko's we didn't see very much of them until around 7-8 years ago when I was a little wilder & like to street/drag race a little...The Shinko's where the cheapest cheater slick you could get, used them with good results in a straight line, but I'm also a guy who has fond memories of IRC Volcanduro back in the day.
 
but I'm also a guy who has fond memories of IRC Volcanduro back in the day.
:eek:Me too! (Well, not the guy part....but the fond part)
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I loved the VE33. I have a set of IRC Battle Rally's on one of my street plated bikes and I have a set of Shinko MX tires on one of my trail bikes.:thumbsup:
 
I've found that all trials tires sux at breaking/stopping (unless your riding on rocks), but it requires you to use & trust that front brake, it makes it easier to slide the rear into the turn & that tire will hook up when you get off the brakes. So in those Oh Chit situations, just get off the back brake for a moment & let it roll for a sec...then back on the brake...Or I've got my rear brake set up to be a little spongy so I really have to push it hard to get a full on lock up.
I ride a 2010 KTM XC-W 400 with a Washougal front & a new MT-43 on the rear...just came off the Dunny 803.

On another note, I'm really thinking about getting a LH rear brake & removing the clutch lever. I have an Auto-Clutch & ride with some pals that have the LHB on their bikes, they say they will never have another foot pedal again for the rear. Fast guys & they may be onto something.

The LHRB will help with braking, you'll get more control/less locking up with the hand brake. At first it took a while to get used to and I wasn't so sure about it but now I love it and I will always have a LHRB setup on my bikes.

If it is about complete traction the IRC trials tire cant be beat but 300 miles and they're done, I've been using MT-43's on the rear for a couple of years now and I'm sold, incredible traction with long life.
 
The LHRB will help with braking, you'll get more control/less locking up with the hand brake. At first it took a while to get used to and I wasn't so sure about it but now I love it and I will always have a LHRB setup on my bikes.

If it is about complete traction the IRC trials tire cant be beat but 300 miles and they're done, I've been using MT-43's on the rear for a couple of years now and I'm sold, incredible traction with long life.

Hey thanks... I ordered the setup for the LHRB, I rode a friends bike with the setup & rear brake modulation is much, much better than with the pedal, which is really kind of nice on those right hand turns, cause you can still drag the brakes a little.

Good thing is we were in a field, cause I don't know how many times my right foot was searching for the rear brakes and I needed the extra room to fight 35 years of foot brake training.
 
Hey thanks... I ordered the setup for the LHRB, I rode a friends bike with the setup & rear brake modulation is much, much better than with the pedal, which is really kind of nice on those right hand turns, cause you can still drag the brakes a little.

Good thing is we were in a field, cause I don't know how many times my right foot was searching for the rear brakes and I needed the extra room to fight 35 years of foot brake training.

Just an FYI, instead of getting a new master cylinder and complete setup I am using the Magura master cleaned out really good of course with DOT 4 fluid, all I had to get was a custom brake line (Spiegler) to go from the stock clutch master to the rear caliper. Some will say you cant use brake fluid in the clutch master but I've been doing it for 5 years on 2 Huskys with no problems (just a pain to bleed). ...also if you need a brake light switch you can get the line with a 90 degree banjo fitting on the lever side and install the hydraulic switch right into the magura master cylinder.
 
Just an FYI, instead of getting a new master cylinder and complete setup I am using the Magura master cleaned out really good of course with DOT 4 fluid, all I had to get was a custom brake line (Spiegler) to go from the stock clutch master to the rear caliper. Some will say you cant use brake fluid in the clutch master but I've been doing it for 5 years on 2 Huskys with no problems (just a pain to bleed). ...also if you need a brake light switch you can get the line with a 90 degree banjo fitting on the lever side and install the hydraulic switch right into the magura master cylinder.

Thanks Sharpie1, I am still unable to get ownership of a Husky dirtbike these days with so many friends with money buying new KTM's all the time...I buy 1 year old bikes from them when I'm ready to buy, this XC-W 400 had 17 hours on it for cheap. My KTM has a Brembo clutch master-cylinder which from what I've seen & read the Brembo is the way to go, My mechanic just did one on another KTM 4T & told me what to order. Seems that to bleed such a long run you'd want to push it from the caliper towards the M-C, but who knows. Thanks for all the tips & it really seems you got yours bulletproof.
 
Oh, i forgot i had vid from the day. this is VERY slick as is has been raining and snowing for months. Clay soup over hard clay. Think grease on glass. Steeper than the vid looks too, especially the hill at the end where i wait for buddy Rollie so i do not get cought behind him. He was running full knobs...


Good info. I've been outta the loop for a while and I'm ready to order a new set of knobs for my wr125 so if you still believe Motosports are the way to go then let me know. Also, I'm gonna send my suspension to Drew of WER unless you think there is a better choice. I thought I should stay on the east coast for suspension work...
 
For the 125 I would go with the enduro ST or terrapator. I'm not wild over trials tires on a 125. For me they are the wrong type of tire for that bike. As for suspension I have not used Drew (I did buy a gold valve setup from him 12+ years ago) but have heard nothing but great things.
 
I put my first-ever damper on (Motosportz of course) and just got my forks back from Drew and did some test riding on some real rocky stuff last weekend. Like Drew recommends, I setup a small course and rode it over and over making adjustments. For my riding, Drew recommended the compression 16 clicks out to full out, so I took it all the way out. I thought I remembered him saying to make the rebound "full out" too so I had it set like that for many of the laps. I was not happy and thought either my new damper or my new fork rebuild were not performing as I had hoped, or possibly that I made too many changes at the same time - putting too many variables into the mix at once. I was about played out and figured I had nothing to lose, so I took my rebound clickers in 12 from full out and made a run........OMG
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What a setup - Drew forks and Kelly's Damper. When I got back home and looked at Drew's spec sheet he sent with the forks, guess what he recommended for rebound...12 - 16 clicks from full out
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Now I can't wait until my rear shock seal leaks so I have a reason to send it to Drew for a matched set of suspension components. I'm running the MT43 rear and Motoz Enduro IT front...a deadly rock combination
 
I installed Pirelli MT43 on my 2006 TE510, and learned that an extra chain link was needed to push the wheel back enough so the MT43 would not touch the mud flap. The MT43 has a much larger OD than the OEM knobby.
 
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