• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Need Headlight Upgrade for 1987 430WR - H4 LED Bulb Or ?

HuskyGreg

Husqvarna
AA Class
Are there any inexpensive options to improve the dismal H4 halogen bulb's light output? I tried an LED H4 replacement for $10 and it won't turn on after trying several different wiring clip attempts. Any reasonable options out there?
 
I have NOT tested the output and it is the original 1987 unit. Can you recommend a test method? I certainly can jump on the light output terminals with my voltage tester (the bulb has 3 connections at the 9, 12 and 3 clock positions as viewed from above gas tank and wires only on 2 of the connections (the 12 and 3 clock connections). I never understood how these connections operated other than the light worked, but not very bright, and the lumens increase a lot as I increase RPMS. At idle it is barely visible.

Perhaps my electrical stupidity is showing since I tried to run the new LED bulb on this old mag generator but the bulb claims a 10v low range.
 
at idle it has pretty much no voltage
at RPM it has a decent amount of light
if you want it to be a consistent light you will need a battery
the battery will carry the light at idle and the mag will recharge the battery at rpm
 
Your above narrative on voltage output describes my OEM 1987 mag system's behavior which is rated at 45W per the manual.

Does anyone have a simple schematic for settting up a sealed 12V battery system with a voltage regulator plus parts sites? I assume I can run the mag output to the new regulator (now goes straight to the lights) and the regulator's output to the front and rear lights. Then I will have stable light power output and can use the LED headlight requiring 10V minimum.
 
Your above narrative on voltage output describes my OEM 1987 mag system's behavior which is rated at 45W per the manual.

Does anyone have a simple schematic for settting up a sealed 12V battery system with a voltage regulator plus parts sites? I assume I can run the mag output to the new regulator (now goes straight to the lights) and the regulator's output to the front and rear lights. Then I will have stable light power output and can use the LED headlight requiring 10V minimum.

they actually do come with a regulator, it is a yellow wire and has a finned back
battery design? don't know of a simple one for that
but if you do something clever, please share
 
Back
Top