• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Need help with idle problem

I can see some erosion on the top around the right rear corner{intake side}from the piston to wall clearance being excessive,or from the mag side main bearing getting worn,the piston rocks in the bore and gets closer to the head at TDC.Looks normal otherwise,the darkness on the right side is caused by crankshaft thrust,nothing unusual on a used piston.
 
take it to a reputable shop and have them do some measurements...they will bore until they get the cylinder close to final bore...then you can order the correct size over piston...you really cant tell what size piston you will need until the jug is cleaned up...need to check the rod and mains for play to determine if further work needs done than just a topend
 
Grab the conrod and support it all round then try to lift it up and down a smidge to see if there is play in the rod bearing.
grab the fly wheel and see if there is any up and down movement at all... should be none.
 
First, thanks for all the advice and tips / recommendations to try...

This what I have done and learned along the way.
  • I now know the size of the jets and piston are printed on them, tiny but magnifying glass helped me find them and thanks to Phil at Husky-parts who was nice enough to tell me this and lots of helpful ideas.
  • My piston size is 69.43
  • My original owners manual says Bore Std 69.5 Do you think this could be the original piston?
  • From the looks of the Cylinder bottom gasket it has been ages (if never) the cylinder has been removed. I honestly thought there was not bottom gasket as it appeared to be just metal. Then I discovered there was in fact a gasket there but almost feels petrified! ANY SUGGESTION as to how to get this old hardened gasket off. Have to be careful because as I literally chip away at it had to be careful nothing got in the crank case... yes have rag shoved in but has to be an easier way...
I have given my exhaust pipe a thorough cleaning and it is clean.
I did find that there was no gasket at the exhaust port. maybe this explains some of the oil in the pipe, could this also lead to low compression?
So here I am, now what? My plans are to keep trying to resolve this myself. Any recommendations at this point will be appreciated. I have a new bottom gasket, need to find an exhaust gasket, then planning on putting it back together, thoroughly clean and examine the carbs. Thought I might could or should buy next size piston, hone the cylinder and that might do it. the problem is I have never done this before so having to learn as I go. I was given a mans name Forest Stahl, has anyone used him before? Heard he can do most anything with a husky engine. Given my limited knowledge, should I crate it up and send it to him or keep trying to see what I can do to get it running myself. (love a challenge but do not want to screw it up and have it cost more)
Thoughts???
Thanks.
 
Take the cylinder to a machine shop ask your nearest motorbike dealer who they recommend, drop the cylinder into them and they will bore it out to the next size of 70mm and then do an inspection to make sure everything is in good order with no cracks etc, buy the next size piston 69.93mm drop that into the machine shop and they will finish the cylinder honing.
You can use a gasket removing solution to help but I normally use a flat scraper and a vacuum when removing gaskets.
The exhaust gasket is no real biggy you could make your own from a suitable sheet, the gasket seals do not effect compression or spooge .
You must check for movement in the bottom end or take it to someone who can as this is where things get expensive chances are all will be good, check the little end of the Conrod for wear if all is good pour kero into the crank and swill it around pour into a bucket and check the debris.
The other things to check would be the reeds and crank seals.
 
Thanks for the advice, that is what I am going to do.

One more question when putting on the new bottom gasket, do I need to put down any sealant prior to placing the gasket or do I just place the gasket and it seals itself when properly torqued?
 
Gasket alone will be fine just make sure all surfaces are clean and free of any residual gasket, you can fix the gasket in place with a small dab of high temp silicon to stop it moving whilst putting things together but this shouldn't be necessary.
Torque to recommended tension in a crisscross pattern.
Check your squish and for binding by slowly rotating the crank by hand.
Threads and advice will be plentiful on this site if unsure just post your query, when all is done and the bike is run in do a compression test as this will be a your base line for a ring change etc would also install a hour meter at this stage.
 
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