• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

250-500cc New 2012 WR300

Dirtdame said:
140 main? What kind of carburetor do you have on it? I am presently running a 420 main, GAY needle, center position clip, 80 starter jet, 45 pilot and a #4 slide. That's the stuff they sent to replace all the wrong stuff in my Mikuni.
Click to expand...
It has a Mikuni TMX 38.
 
Dirtdame said:
140 main? What kind of carburetor do you have on it? I am presently running a 420 main, GAY needle, center position clip, 80 starter jet, 45 pilot and a #4 slide. That's the stuff they sent to replace all the wrong stuff in my Mikuni.
Click to expand...
OOps i meant 400 main
 
Dirtdame said:
For the guys that mentioned that they melted down their topends on their new bikes, I was just wondering if you noticed anything weird or wrong with the way the bike ran. I mention this because when I rode my new 300 for the first time, it felt terribly underpowered all the way through the range and pinged quite noticeably. I rode it for a short time and then gingerly nursed it back to the staging area without seizing it, and shut it off for good, till I got the jets and slide for it. When the carb stuff was installed, I made sure that the intake boot to the engine was sealed with RTV also, then reset the float level.
Click to expand...
It felt like it flatened out on top faster than i thought it should. There was no warning at all. I had rode out a tank of fuel just putting around, and did the usual heat cycles too.I started gradually riding it harder on the second tank.I came out of a third gear sweeper in a field and was standing right out of the turn hit fourth than fifth had to let off of the throttle for just a second because of terain.As i rolled it back on it seized very qiuckly. No compression and had to push my brand new bike home!
 
R_Little said:
Exactly! What the heck is that? A PwK maybe? but even that takes a 170-180 main?

What is a GAY needle? I'm afraid to ask.

Boy, they used to come with a 400 in the old TMX which was too rich.

If you did like your name and "just pinned it"...it would not last 30 seconds with a 140 main!
Click to expand...
I meant 400. Not sure where i got 140.:doh: A gay needle is pink DUH.:D
 
justpinit said:
It felt like it flatened out on top faster than i thought it should. There was no warning at all. I had rode out a tank of fuel just putting around, and did the usual heat cycles too.I started gradually riding it harder on the second tank.I came out of a third gear sweeper in a field and was standing right out of the turn hit fourth than fifth had to let off of the throttle for just a second because of terain.As i rolled it back on it seized very qiuckly. No compression and had to push my brand new bike home!
Click to expand...
Wow, pretty crazy! After I rejetted and reset everything in my carb, I just took it out and rode it like normal. I don't really follow any breakin procedure. I've ridden it about a dozen times now and probably put 6 tanks of gas (Cali ethanol premium/Motorex 60 to 1) through it. Did mostly singletrack (25 to 50 mile loops), a little open sand riding, a couple of MX track sessions. It runs really strong all over. I ride mostly between 2000-5000 ft altitude.
 
Dirtdame said:
Wow, pretty crazy! After I rejetted and reset everything in my carb, I just took it out and rode it like normal. I don't really follow any breakin procedure. I've ridden it about a dozen times now and probably put 6 tanks of gas (Cali ethanol premium/Motorex 60 to 1) through it. Did mostly singletrack (25 to 50 mile loops), a little open sand riding, a couple of MX track sessions. It runs really strong all over. I ride mostly between 2000-5000 ft altitude.
Click to expand...
Have you had any problems with the clutch dragging.I have to twist the adjuster alot to get it to stop.There no freeplay in the clutch at all.I use belray trans oil.I noticed you said you were getting a custom clutch cable made in hopes if better clutch prformance.
 
justpinit said:
Have you had any problems with the clutch dragging.I have to twist the adjuster alot to get it to stop.There no freeplay in the clutch at all.I use belray trans oil.I noticed you said you were getting a custom clutch cable made in hopes if better clutch prformance.
Click to expand...
Yes, I have the same problem with my clutch. I noticed that when I pull the clutch in, the cable flexes quite a bit all over. I think that the cable housing compresses too much when the lever is pulled, meaning that a lot of the pull is wasted on compressing the housing instead of moving the plates of the clutch. I put a cable with a longitudinally wound housing on the bike just this afternoon. The cable housing doesn't move much at all now. I am going to ride the bike tomorrow and see if it helps the overall performance of the clutch.
 
Shorten your stock cable about 3 inches. Zip Ty Racing or Tys Dad Terry at Terry Cable can do it for you.Makes a big difference
 
Three inches? Do you have to route it differently? If that helps with the clutch drag, I'd definitely be interested.
 
Dirtdame said:
Yes, I have the same problem with my clutch. I noticed that when I pull the clutch in, the cable flexes quite a bit all over. I think that the cable housing compresses too much when the lever is pulled, meaning that a lot of the pull is wasted on compressing the housing instead of moving the plates of the clutch. I put a cable with a longitudinally wound housing on the bike just this afternoon. The cable housing doesn't move much at all now. I am going to ride the bike tomorrow and see if it helps the overall performance of the clutch.
Click to expand...


Let us know how that works and where you got the cable too!
 
PowerKord said:
Let us know how that works and where you got the cable too!
Click to expand...
Went for a nice long loop today. The clutch was not perfect, but noticeably better. It was smoother and actually could be engaged a little ways from the grip, instead of right at it. Now I don't get that creeping effect when I have the clutch pulled in, in tight technical situations. I can have the front brake applied while turning a tricky almost full lock, downhill turn in rocks without having the bike get pushed or stalling. The new cable makes it easier to find neutral too(although that isn't perfect, just better).

The cable is built by MotionPro. You have to call them directly to have it made. They make a standard OEM style of cable for the WRs (listed as a 10-0150), so you have to ask for the Terminator or longitudinally wound housing version. It takes close to two weeks to get the cable after you order it. The cable costs 46.00 plus shipping. It is very heavy duty and thick compared to the stock one. It was a well spent investment for this particular bike. My stock cable is now an emergency spare, although I doubt that I will ever need it.

I'd say "mission accomplished"!:thumbsup:
 
Dirtdame said:
Went for a nice long loop today. The clutch was not perfect, but noticeably better. It was smoother and actually could be engaged a little ways from the grip, instead of right at it. Now I don't get that creeping effect when I have the clutch pulled in, in tight technical situations. I can have the front brake applied while turning a tricky almost full lock, downhill turn in rocks without having the bike get pushed or stalling. The new cable makes it easier to find neutral too(although that isn't perfect, just better).

The cable is built by MotionPro. You have to call them directly to have it made. They make a standard OEM style of cable for the WRs (listed as a 10-0150), so you have to ask for the Terminator or longitudinally wound housing version. It takes close to two weeks to get the cable after you order it. The cable costs 46.00 plus shipping. It is very heavy duty and thick compared to the stock one. It was a well spent investment for this particular bike. My stock cable is now an emergency spare, although I doubt that I will ever need it.

I'd say "mission accomplished"!:thumbsup:
Click to expand...
I haven't had any issues with my clutch but for no more than that costs it would be cheap insurance. If I decide to replace my cable I'll get one of those.
 
Terry Davis AKA Terry Cable is Ty Davis dad of Zip Ty Racing Terry has been making cables for years that is his bussiness. Terry is a racer himself so he uses what he makes and sells.He can either shorten your stock cable or make you a new one.On my wr250 we shorten it like 3 inches on my Wr300 it is even shorter.His shop is in Hesperia calif and I never had to wait more then 1 day for my parts
Give him a call .Check out his web sight also has he makes all kinds of parts where do you think Ty learned to make parts
 
ajaxauto said:
Terry Davis AKA Terry Cable is Ty Davis dad of Zip Ty Racing Terry has been making cables for years that is his bussiness. Terry is a racer himself so he uses what he makes and sells.He can either shorten your stock cable or make you a new one.On my wr250 we shorten it like 3 inches on my Wr300 it is even shorter.His shop is in Hesperia calif and I never had to wait more then 1 day for my parts
Give him a call .Check out his web sight also has he makes all kinds of parts where do you think Ty learned to make parts
Click to expand...
I would but not sure if i want to send my cable across the country to get it done.Does he have any pre made?
 
09 vs 12, what is different about these years. I know the 12 will have KYB forks and shock? But if the frame is diff, by how much & does it handle that much better?
 
street2dirt said:
09 vs 12, what is different about these years. I know the 12 will have KYB forks and shock? But if the frame is diff, by how much & does it handle that much better?
Click to expand...
11 and 12 model has a new ignition. I heard that the frame had changed slightly for 12. Not sure that it changed the handling any.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top