• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

New And Just Bought An Ae420: Some Questions.

Marc B.

Husqvarna
Hello fellow Husqvarna riders, I‘m new to the vintage Husqvarnas and also new to this forum. I‘ve recently bought an AE420 and I have some ‚rookie’ questions:

1. Which of the automatics models use the same parts? Would be good to know if I need any spare parts.

2. And since I come from Germany are there any dealers/shops you can recommend that are not overseas?

3. Are there any advices or recommendations for riding an automatic?

Sorry for that storm of questions.

Thanks for your help in advance!

Greetings
Marc
 
1. The 420 gearbox is different in quite a few places from all the other autos except the 258 army bike,

2. Jef Bens in Belgium will have anything you ever need.

3 Autos are best when ridden flat out, slow riding has the clutches slipping which produces a lot of heat and wear.

4. Change the oil after every event or decent trail ride say 3 to 6 hours.

5, In mine and quite a few other peoples opinion you have the best Auto

6. There are lots of threads on here about riding and looking after Autos, many of which cover the oil to use!! An afternoons browse through this forum will give you a good insight to owning an Auto

Good Luck

Steve
 
You don't have to change the trans oil after every ride! I change mine after every 3 full tanks of gas is used. I have tried many different types of trans oil and the best I have found is Maxima HEAVY shock fluid. I have been riding the autos for the last twenty years.

On the 420, the shop manual says to torque the shaft nut on the 1st gear clutch (nut on the end of the crank) to 65 ft/lbs. I torque mine to 80-85 ft/lbs. I have never had a clutch hub work loose after I started using 80/85 ft/lbs torque. If you remove the clutch hub, torque it down then ride the bike for ten minute or so then check the torque again. Buy or make a clutch spring retainer plate to install on the first gear clutch to keep the clutch shoe spring in place just incase the spring breaks.

Marty
 
The earlier ones have a different engagement mechanism and needle and thrust bearings. The 420 and later seem to have the same engagement mechanism and ball bearings. The 430 and 500 are only 3 speed and have a different starting mechanism. I don't know about the stuff in the big drum thing or the shaft with the freewheels on the 360 and 390 that might be same as 420 really just study the parts sheets.

Auto think snowmobile winter use.

More dangerous than a standard shift as one can store energy in a spinning rear tire more than used to.

The taper on the crank drive is a problem and can be found kind of spot welded to the crank stub. It is a rather thin nut for the called for torque.

It is probably best to spin the tire instead of let the clutches slip. It does not free wheel in high gear.

Fran
 
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