• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

New FI tuner on my SM 630

rocko said:
Depends on throttle position and RPM. If you are cruising at a steady throttle opening at that speed it will most likely be in green but will change to yellow pretty quickly if you open the throttle up further. But of course this is how it is with my Y/B setting.

There really is no substitute for being able to see it in real time as you ride...I highly recommend mounting it on the bars. The unit is weatherproof according to JD himself.

Plus it's pretty cool to see the LEDs sweep from left to right on startup at night time....kinda knightrider-ish! :D
Click to expand...

I kept mine out for a while, but now it's under the seat in the hollow behind the fuse panel.
What I didn't realize is that you can see the LED's at night through the little triangular holes in the side panels.
 
ContraHusky said:
Question for those with the JD mounted where you can see it...

What zone is the bike in at steady highway speed...say, 65-70mph? Green, Yellow, Red...?
Click to expand...

I havent been up at highway speeds yet, but from general town riding :

1) One spends a lot of time in Green Mode, more than one would think.
2) Green-Blue or Idle mode is more important than I initially thought because comming off throttle from Green mode and then lightly comming on throttle again, the bike will start off in idle mode and stay there untill the throttle is opened wider. Also slowing down in say Green mode and then lugging a bit hard, the bike momentarily switches into Idle mode. In all of these situations Idle mode needs to be strong / rich enough to power the bike while riding / lugging. I now view Idle mode as important as Green mode for normal low speed riding
3) Comming off throttle from speed and closing the throttle grip completely, the bike stays in Green mode - not in idle as you would expect.

It is important to ensure the smooth transition from Idle mode to Green mode and vice versa as they interchange a lot and this affects your
lower speed / on - off throttle riding experience.

It really helps to have the JD unit on your bars, particularly at night, as you get a good idea how the EFI is switching around releative to your grip on the throttle
 
"It really helps to have the JD unit on your bars, particularly at night, as you get a good idea how the EFI is switching around releative to your grip on the throttle"

I know ... I know. But I´d likely fall off while mesmerised by the flashing LEDs. And I don´t want anything unnecessary up on the bars ( I even managed to get rid of the tatty looking front brake reservoir). And apart from that, even though it may well be weatherproof, I use the bike throughout the winter months, so it´d spend quite some time frozen in a block of ice.
 
organ donor said:
"It really helps to have the JD unit on your bars, particularly at night, as you get a good idea how the EFI is switching around releative to your grip on the throttle"

I know ... I know. But I´d likely fall off while mesmerised by the flashing LEDs. And I don´t want anything unnecessary up on the bars ( I even managed to get rid of the tatty looking front brake reservoir). And apart from that, even though it may well be weatherproof, I use the bike throughout the winter months, so it´d spend quite some time frozen in a block of ice.
Click to expand...

I only have it on the bars while tuning.
Once setup it goes back under the seat.
When things change and I need to tune again, it goes back on the bars.
 
im gonna order the efi today.. id like to know more dyno numbers before spending or drilling..
basically what is the best tune in stock form with pu kit.
 
I'm about to head to the garage and put that pre-filter and a 14T front sprocket in. Here are the JD settings I plan on starting with:

Green (low range), 4
Yellow (mid range), 5/6
Red (top end), 6
Green/Blue (idle), 3/4
Yellow/Blue (green-yellow transition), 2
Red/Blue (accelerator), 8
 
jtemple said:
I'm about to head to the garage and put that pre-filter and a 14T front sprocket in. Here are the JD settings I plan on starting with:

Green (low range), 4
Yellow (mid range), 5/6
Red (top end), 6
Green/Blue (idle), 3/4
Yellow/Blue (green-yellow transition), 2
Red/Blue (accelerator), 8
Click to expand...

I am curious to see how you like both the sprocket and the settings. I have yet to play with the settings of my JD tuner and am seriously considering the sprocket change.
 
Thumperama said:
I am curious to see how you like both the sprocket and the settings. I have yet to play with the settings of my JD tuner and am seriously considering the sprocket change.
Click to expand...
So far, I like it a lot. It was just a quick paved spin around town. The bike pulls a lot harder at lower speeds, which is probably due to the smaller front sprocket. Power seems to be smooth throughout the RPM range.

Here are my power-related mods:
PU Kit
Leo Vince Ti System
JD Tuner (settings detailed above)
EHS Pre-Filter (opened up airbox)

I stole a pic of the pre-filter from this thread, hope Fast1 doesn't mind: http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/630-airbox-wake-up-call.20669/

Pic:
IMAG0432.jpg


I went with a red anodized frame and buttonhead screws (rounded heads that are lower profile). The red is a bit lighter than the Husky red. I don't have pics yet. My bike is embarrassingly dirty. When it warms up enough that I can wash it without everything turning into ice, I'll do that and take some pics. Just imagine the one shown above with a red anodized frame around it and you get the idea.

The filter membrane vibrates considerably when you grab a handful of throttle.

One thing I wonder about is how easy it would be to drop my bike and puncture that thing. I carry some duct tape in my tool kit for just such an occasion.

I also may order up a spare airbox cover so I can quickly revert back to the regular airbox if necessary.
 
I've got the exact same mods done to mine except for the EHS pre-filter. Been thinking of doing that one too, but have yet to order it. I'll put that and a sprocket order on my things to do list for this afternoon.
 
jtemple said:
One thing I wonder about is how easy it would be to drop my bike and puncture that thing. I carry some duct tape in my tool kit for just such an occasion.
Click to expand...

Woudn't make a difference if you puntured it because it would just have similar air flow to what comes through the snorkle, the foam filter will filter the air flow. IMO, the main reason for the EHS filter in that location is to ensure that the engine doesn't injest water since it is drawing air from a location that could be more prone to watar..lower and on the side. The OEM filter will ensure proper filtering for dirt regardless of where the air flows through it. The abililty of the EHS filter material to repel water and be positioned right over the throttle body inlet are the main benefits besides allowing the foam filter a flow of air not just concentrated on the inlet of the snorkle.
 
Same done on mine. Pity the frame is square and therefore difficult to position (either parallel to the ground or the upper surface of the airbox)
 
You can look at mine in October :D

Just hit 12K miles, btw, and decided to re-pack my cans.

Had less than half the packing remaining. Still sounded fine, just a little tinny.
 
RDTCU said:
You can look at mine in October :D

Just hit 12K miles, btw, and decided to re-pack my cans.

Had less than half the packing remaining. Still sounded fine, just a little tinny.
Click to expand...

Are you running new settings ? The ones you gave me dont want to work on my bike . Still have a hesitation around 4100 rpm.
 
STANIMAL said:
Are you running new settings ? The ones you gave me dont want to work on my bike . Still have a hesitation around 4100 rpm.
Click to expand...

Nothing drastically different, I can check them again.

Remind me what your Ibeat settings are?
 
STANIMAL said:
My ibeat are what you sent me . Low 103 mid 120 high 112
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OK, that's where I'm still at, I can't remember my JD settings right off.

I did swap in an Iridium plug, it made a small difference, but I don't have a noticeable hesitation.

You'll have to ride mine and see if there's a difference.
 
Just curious, what is the logic behind tweaking iBeat settings while using a JD tuner? I set my iBeat back to stock before installing it, didn't want to make things more confusing than necessary.
 
My Ibeat was set to these settings by the dealer once I had the motor broken in, and I didn't have them set it back to 100% when I got my JD. That just means that my JD settings won't work the same for you. Stan just tweaked his to match mine because he's got basically identical mods to my bike and wanted to try my settings.
 
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