• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

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    Thanks for your patience and support!

New to Huskys, Exhaust glowing red at head?

sttxe310

Husqvarna
AA Class
I have just bought a new 2010 TXE 310 here in Aus and had a couple of questions. The TXE is what I understand a TE without our ADR compliance, so it can't be full registered but can be rec reg'd which suits my needs.

Have always wanted a 310 with its specs being well above the KLX250 that I have come from. Same old story, bought a bike to ride with the kids and ended up wanting more and the 310 was it.
As a brand new bike who could beat the $8500 price tag with reg, bash plate, barkbusters, knobbies instead of the Karoos, map switch and lower seat. (only problem is the very hard Bridgestone E03/04 tyres the dealer fitted for the Karoos).

Anyway have spent the last few days riding it and running it in and the thing is absolutey awesome with power on tap at the flick of the wrist and some decent suspension. The weather has been crappy with plenty of rain and greasy, slick trails so the map switch has been great to take the edge off. I noticed today whilst riding some single track with the kids that the right header pipe was glowing red right the start near the head. I have obviously noticed the heat from the whole system as I have done the obligitory melting of a new set of pants (already searched the forums and found the P3 solution which is one it's way). Is this amount of heat and the glowing from the pipe normal? Could it be from using the map switch in conjuction with the lower speeds?

The dealer supplied to me in a box the original oxy sensor, along with what looks like a catalytic converter which I assume came from between the header and pipe. The bung has been removed from the muffler and the TXC air filter cage has been fitted. Is thereanything else that could have been done to the ecu to cause the glowing which I would assume to be a lean mix, and should I be asking more questions of the dealer.

Would appreciate as more info as possible.

STTXE310
 
STTxe310
Do you notice that the bike stalls easily especially when under load without a bagfull of revs? or maybe pulling away at low revs? Its suggested that you have a look at boots between the throttle body and the engine. Ensure that the everything is properly home and the clips are tight (no - really tight!). If your header is getting glowing hot then you are burning very, very lean. If you have confirmed that there is no way that you have an air leak then have a look at the fueling points in the ECU. One point for starting is 100, 103 and 107. And for a laugh change the plug - you have already cooked that one.
If you have the O2 sensor and the CC in a box then you have fixed injection already set up. Personally I would be hounding the dealer to identify the problem and impliment a tested fix. (the testing bit is important bit - long story but that is what caught me). Once you get the stochiometric ratios sorted then the bike is an absolute flyer. Have fun.
 
STTxe310
If your header is getting glowing hot then you are burning very, very lean. Once you get the stochiometric ratios sorted then the bike is an absolute flyer. Have fun.

Actually the engine is NOT running lean. With the map switch in Map#2 position it takes timing out of the engine. The red header is due to the fact you are not getting a complete burn in the combustion chamber. What you are seeing is fuel still burning in the pipe. I see this all the time on the dyno when not running enough timing.
 
Thanks for that. I understand both arguements but must say that I have encountered the stalling condition and wasn't sure if it was because being a new bike to me etc. i needed to learn the characteristcs of it. I will check the air leak concern tonight and I have been on to the dealer already. As i said it was super slippery but the other thing that comes to mind is i only got around 30 kms before the fuel light started to flash which doesn't seem to be much.

Rallytourer what do you mean by fixed injection. Does removing the O2 sensor take out the ability for the fuel amount to be constantly varied? and then it reverts to set base points of 100 103 107. Are these numbers at set points in the rev range?

If the glowing was to be beacuse of the retarded timing is anyone else seeing this condition in SEL2.
 
Reading a bit more and realising that your fuel usage is considerable then its not inconcievable that shipwick has a valid point of view. I have to say that I dont really have much experience about the retarded incomplete fuel burn. This is effectivly when the fuel isn't burnt in the cylinder and it is coming out to the header pipe and mixing with fresh oxygen and reigniting - hey presto glowing pipe. The thing is that the ratios are incorrect.

The way to tell what is going on is to do a plug chop - white then lean, black then rich. You are looking for something that is a nice cinamon brown.

To expain what is going on with your injection. The oxygen sensor and the CC have been removed and it might be worth checking that the rest of the restrictors have been removed (lots of posts on the forums about the full power up process) and the checking the values for the power curves in the ECU. This is done with the ibeat software.

The difference is that with injection systems it has nothing to do with the venturi effect and jet size as in a carburetter but it has everything to do with the pump discahrge. Effectivly the discharge quantity is software controlled by the ECU. The three points I mention are actually three points on the engine mapping curve and equate (softawre engineere help me out here please) how much fuel to squirt in depending on the air that this drawn into the cylinder. Given that the feedback loop (the oxygen sensor) has been removed you now have a fixed injection system.
This is in no way a bad thing - its just that the settings are a bit of an approximation of your conditions. It does mean that you have the full power up procedure done which is bloody excelent.
It sounds like you shouldn't be too far away - check the seals to make sure you dont have an air leak, check the timing (pop of the head cover and check the marks - lots of posts on this one as well), check the valve clearance, check that all the restrictors are removed and then fire up ibeat and check your ECU points. Now, once you have done that - have fun and ride the wheels of it!!
 
After checking all of the above i beleave the dealer came up with a up date with the co readings to 115,108,107.
 
Both a lean condition or retarded timing can cause red hot exhaust so both of you could be right but only one of you is.
 
Sounds like you might need to adjust the settings on the ECU Mate. That type of bike you have is surplus stock from the states, and they brought them over here to oz tell sell them of real cheap. Great value and a good bike, If you can take your bike to a husky dealer (Who has the Husky I-beat software)and ask them to adjust your settings, It should only take them a couple of minutes. It would be set for usa conditions i reckon" Here are the settings that the husky 310s run in australia.

FB1=100%

FB2=100%

FB3=100%

Have the TPS set at 1000mvs + or- 5%

CO2 Settings
co1=115%
co2=108%
co3=107%
1950 to 2000Rpm Idle speed

The dealership will know were the plug is to hook there computer up to adjust the settings. Its in behind the front headlight, just undo the 8mm bolt that holds the speedo and top of light and pull the light forward. If the CC and O2 sensor has been removed thats good, There should also be a blanking plug in where the O2 sensor hooked into the wiring harness under the fuel tank on the LH side of the frame. Also remove the filter cage screen and take the Diffuser out of the back of the muffler. You should see about 35-37Hp at the back wheel once all of this is done. If you go riding up in the high country go up 2 teeth on the back sproket and that thing will rip"
 
One more thing" The glowing exhaust. You must off had it under cover or in some sought off shaded or dark area to see the glowing pipes. Mine does the same. I remeber seth enslow over here in australia (On a crusty demons tour) Had a Harley'S Header pipes glowing like cherrys as he was doing a burnout "Looks good Hey" So dont let it worry you to much. Think off it as a warning to not touch when hot LOL"
 
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