New to me 86 WR400

[rancher1]

The o-ring behind the spacer should help.

 

[suprize]

husqvarnaparts.com have Barnett steels plates for the clutch. grab a new spacer for your sprocket while your there.

 

[DaveM]

The trouble with the original spacer,

when it wears it destroys the seal in the bearing.

When worn, it is not running on the inner race of the bearing but rubbing on the seal.

So make sure the ends of the spacer are flat.

Sand both ends flat first, I use a old microwave door, which is tempered glass and a sheet of wet and dry.

I like Rancher1's idea of using a o-ring, which you may need to do if the spacer is shorter than

original.

It would have to be the right size, to go against the bearing inner race.

I have removed the seal without removing the bearing, if you have another bearing the same size,

remove one seal and replace.

It is fiddly, I found just dig the seal out from one side, discard if damaged.

Now going through the bearing, gently with a blunt punch, carefully push the seal out.

The seal clips into a groove.

The seal is also available separately from bearing supply places.

If I remember properly, and the bearing is worn, I have removed the bearing without splitting

the cases.

If anyone wants to know how I did it please ask, I will fill you in.

 

[Eurofreak]

Thanks Darryl-don't need a whole set. Let me beat the shit out of it first
Dave, I can get the old seal out of it continues to annoy. Maybe no one ever washed this bike- don't know how bad the leak is.
Joe, you crusty young bastard, I PM'd you

 

[Eurofreak]

Suprize, saw them there may talk to Barnett directly, hate aluminum clutch plates

 

[justintendo]

i have a good amount of hours racked up on the barnett steels from phil...i love em! the aluminum discs sucked since the bike was new. oil will stay cleaner longer too

 

[Eurofreak]

Yeah, I want the extra flywheel effect. I remember my KTM 360. Took a lot of taming down for me to ride in the woods. With a 400 you can always twist the throttle


I occasionally use emoticons...

 

[ajcmbrown]

husqvarnaparts.com have Barnett steels plates for the clutch. grab a new spacer for your sprocket while your there.

I can vouch for the difference, with the steels I can roll to a stop and select neutral, unheard of with alloy plates!

 

[suprize]

my alloy plates are great. can select neutral easy, light lever, all good but for the pooh in the gbox oil

 

[Eurofreak]

Well, there you go. I hate poo too.

SO...next problem. I will also do a search but I'm checking on best practices for repairing the water pump backing next to the impeller. It is not leaking but is very pitted.
I would use JB weld-have cleaned it with sulfuric acid. Any other suggestions?

 

[dukkman]

Well, there you go. I hate poo too.

SO...next problem. I will also do a search but I'm checking on best practices for repairing the water pump backing next to the impeller. It is not leaking but is very pitted.
I would use JB weld-have cleaned it with sulfuric acid. Any other suggestions?

Have used JB weld on a KTM and the coolant snuck around the back and destroyed the cover.

I don't know what Sulfuric acid does to magnesium but I'll bet it aint nice.
How about sandblasting the area then painting it with enamel paint ?
This was mentioned in a post years back.

I've made a stainless backing plate that holds the seal as well so the coolant does not get anywhere near the cover.
Works well.

 

[Eurofreak]

Dukkman, please describe the backing plate you made. I'm not clear where it installs on the cover.
The sulfuric acid cleaned out the pits in the metal. I used two Qtips of acid with water rinses. Worked well.
Maybe walnut shell blasting- sandblasting is too aggressive. I would tear a hole in the case.
I think the best chance of success for the JB weld is a clean surface to adhere to.

 

[DaveM]

The paint would be better,

something that sets hard,

something to cover and seal the whole area.

 

[2premo]

The paint would be better,

something that sets hard,

something to cover and seal the whole area.

epoxy

 

[suprize]

I had a sieve pump face cover and repaired it with araldite (super variety with bits in it) it failed. I bought a new one.

 

[Eurofreak]

I've seen pumps repaired with a product called devcon that worked well. It is an epoxy. The key appears to be neutralizing the reaction in the metal.

 

[Joe Chod]

have used Devcon to fill in a maniac with a dremel in cylinders and engine cases. good shtuff have used JB in water pump area too....no issues

 

[Eurofreak]

Thanks guys-I'm going in this weekend, wish me luck

 

[suprize]

good luck

 

[dukkman]

Dukkman, please describe the backing plate you made. I'm not clear where it installs on the cover.
The sulfuric acid cleaned out the pits in the metal. I used two Qtips of acid with water rinses. Worked well.
Maybe walnut shell blasting- sandblasting is too aggressive. I would tear a hole in the case.
I think the best chance of success for the JB weld is a clean surface to adhere to.

I'd do a pikky but I'm not going to pull my bike to bits.

I bought my Wr400 and it came with a flat stainless plate behind the impeller , held in place by the plastic pump cover , there was a hole where the seal pressed in to the housing so the seal was tight in the plate and the housing.
Looked factory but probably wasn't.

My 240 was that bad I made a plate with a sleeve in it to hold the seal , again held in place by the plastic pump cover , this totally isolates the clutch cover from the coolant.

Something like this