yes IMS 3.4 Decalworks makes them in many styles and any colors you want. Very high quality as well. also thats a 449 front fender and number plate on there. I like how it looks. Makes the bike look more modern to me.
-
Hi everyone,
As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.
When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.
Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.
Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.
Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.
Thanks for your patience and support!
125-200cc New to me bike! cr125 2000
- Thread starter huskylove
- Start date
I have the 449/511 white fender part, I need the lower, do you have a source? I put a smr fedner on my 511 so this is extra. Also using the stock 511 fat bar clamps into the cr125 triple tree, with ducati hypermotard aluminum bars. What a bastard already, but that stuff is sitting here might as well use it 
UFO is who made the stuff I got. Got it from Bills in Oregon. Was very reasonable.
Ricochet / moose
Did some dealing today and got a good used swingarm for 66$ shipped, with good bearings! (supposedly).
Got a good used linkage setup with good bearings (supposedly) for 75.00$ shipped. ?Hoping to get a late model shock for 85$ with good bearings.
Then I dont have to spend 240$ on a chinese bearing kit and whatever it cost to fix the shock and rebuild it (rebound and comp. adjusters dont work).
Got a good used linkage setup with good bearings (supposedly) for 75.00$ shipped. ?Hoping to get a late model shock for 85$ with good bearings.
Then I dont have to spend 240$ on a chinese bearing kit and whatever it cost to fix the shock and rebuild it (rebound and comp. adjusters dont work).
Kyle Tarry
Husqvarna
Pro Class
Here's a shock from a 2001 CR 125, should fit right onto your bike:http://www.ebay.com/itm/CR125-HUSQV...Parts_Accessories&hash=item4846513c90&vxp=mtr
jerbear610
Husqvarna
Pro Class
Wow, Huskylove... diving right in to the off-road world head first. I think you found the perfect bike to do so.
So when are we going riding ? Carnegie ? Stony? or you can come my way and ride the Sierras, I know it's a helluva
drive for you coming up here. Either way pm me sometime and good luck with your new bike.
So when are we going riding ? Carnegie ? Stony? or you can come my way and ride the Sierras, I know it's a helluva
drive for you coming up here. Either way pm me sometime and good luck with your new bike.
I will definitely get ahold of you/exchange info. The bike unfortunately will not be done until june.
I went to stonyford last ride, and hollister the time before that. JustT one ride on this 125 made me really get the itch. Even starting it up in motoxotica's back lot made me giggle a bit! Its a blast!
My 88$ used ebay shock wont be here until 16th-17th no idea how it got shipped so slowly or where it came from, but that sucks!
I pulled all the covers off the engine and drained the gear oil. The gear oil looked clean, but then when I drained it there was about 1/3 of its oil that came out first looked like metallic sludge. NOT good. Luckily the bike shifts fine but hard to find neutral, I really do not want to get acquainted with a cr125 bottom end right now :\. I am just going to get new o-rings for the head, and gaskets for all the engine covers. Water pump is in good shape, the power valve assembly appears to function, but the power valve cover under it was very very dirty/oily/sludgey. So I will clean that out best I can.
How do you check slop in a piston on these? I rock the piston in the bore and it has what seems like a ton of movement, but then I remember it has only one piston ring, and its a 2 stroke which is new to me? Is there a spec here to check?
I have the damn head off to powder coat it, I better just do a top end/rings huh?
I went to stonyford last ride, and hollister the time before that. JustT one ride on this 125 made me really get the itch. Even starting it up in motoxotica's back lot made me giggle a bit! Its a blast!
My 88$ used ebay shock wont be here until 16th-17th no idea how it got shipped so slowly or where it came from, but that sucks!
I pulled all the covers off the engine and drained the gear oil. The gear oil looked clean, but then when I drained it there was about 1/3 of its oil that came out first looked like metallic sludge. NOT good. Luckily the bike shifts fine but hard to find neutral, I really do not want to get acquainted with a cr125 bottom end right now :\. I am just going to get new o-rings for the head, and gaskets for all the engine covers. Water pump is in good shape, the power valve assembly appears to function, but the power valve cover under it was very very dirty/oily/sludgey. So I will clean that out best I can.
How do you check slop in a piston on these? I rock the piston in the bore and it has what seems like a ton of movement, but then I remember it has only one piston ring, and its a 2 stroke which is new to me? Is there a spec here to check?
I have the damn head off to powder coat it, I better just do a top end/rings huh?
The bottom end on these are typically very strong. Clean it out, put good oil in it and enjoy.
Check ring end gap and piston condition.
Check ring end gap and piston condition.
http://www.off-road.gr/article25.html
Measuring the Piston
The best thing to do is measure the piston with a caliper. Digital calipers cost about $25 at industrial tool companies such as Enco or Harbor Freight. A digital caliper is easy to use and gives accurate measurements on the piston diameter and cylinder bore.
Measure the widths of the piston (front to back) just above the intake cutaway because this is the widest point of the piston.
Check the maximum wear specs in your service manual.
Check the piston for detonation marks in the crown, cracks in the skirt, or seizure marks. Look at the underside of the piston crown for a large black spot. The spot is burnt oil deposits that adhered to the piston because the piston crown temperature was too hot. This is an indication that the carb’s main jet needs to be richer.
Letter Designations on Cylinders and Pistons
The Japanese manufacturers use a letter designation system for plated cylinders. They intend for you to order replacement pistons based on the letter designation printed or stamped on the cylinder. This is the reason why they need this type of system. In mass production you can't guaranty that all parts will be exactly the same size. The size variance is based on an acceptable level of quality.
Tool bits become dull, temperatures of machine tools change through production runs, and machine operators have inconsistent performance. The Japanese manufacturers have between two to four different sized pistons and cylinders. Normally labeled A, B, C, and D.
If they only had one size, the piston to cylinder wall clearance would vary between .001 to .006 inches. In the standard Japanese alpha labeling system, A denotes the smallest bore or piston size and every letter after that is slightly larger, usually in increments of .0015 inches. The danger is that if you try to put a D piston in an A cylinder the piston to cylinder wall clearance will be so tight that a seizure might occur.
Pro-X Oversize Piston Kits
Pro-X is a marketing company that sells the surplus pistons from the Japanese company ART, which makes all the cast pistons for the Japanese motorcycle manufacturers. These pistons are the same quality as the OEM pistons, and they are available in sizes larger than the alpha pistons available from franchised dealers. Also the Pro-X pistons are usually priced lower than the OEM pistons. If the cylinder bore is slightly worn (up to .005 inches) with only a small area of bare aluminum exposed, you can install a Pro-X oversize piston.
The Pro-X pistons are graded oversize in smaller increments than Wiseco pistons, but a wider range than the OEM pistons. For example, Wiseco sizes are .010 inches and Pro-X is .001 inches increments. Before attempting to order a Pro-X piston, you must measure the cylinders bore at the smallest point and allow .002 inches clearance between the piston and cylinder.
Measuring the Ring Gap
The best way to know if the rings are worn is to measure the ring end gap. Put the ring in the cylinder and use the piston to push it down about 1/2 inch from the top evenly spaced. Now use a feeler gauge to measure the width of the ring gap. Normally, the maximum gap is 0.018-0.025 inch.
Measuring the Piston
The best thing to do is measure the piston with a caliper. Digital calipers cost about $25 at industrial tool companies such as Enco or Harbor Freight. A digital caliper is easy to use and gives accurate measurements on the piston diameter and cylinder bore.
Measure the widths of the piston (front to back) just above the intake cutaway because this is the widest point of the piston.
Check the maximum wear specs in your service manual.
Check the piston for detonation marks in the crown, cracks in the skirt, or seizure marks. Look at the underside of the piston crown for a large black spot. The spot is burnt oil deposits that adhered to the piston because the piston crown temperature was too hot. This is an indication that the carb’s main jet needs to be richer.
Letter Designations on Cylinders and Pistons
The Japanese manufacturers use a letter designation system for plated cylinders. They intend for you to order replacement pistons based on the letter designation printed or stamped on the cylinder. This is the reason why they need this type of system. In mass production you can't guaranty that all parts will be exactly the same size. The size variance is based on an acceptable level of quality.
Tool bits become dull, temperatures of machine tools change through production runs, and machine operators have inconsistent performance. The Japanese manufacturers have between two to four different sized pistons and cylinders. Normally labeled A, B, C, and D.
If they only had one size, the piston to cylinder wall clearance would vary between .001 to .006 inches. In the standard Japanese alpha labeling system, A denotes the smallest bore or piston size and every letter after that is slightly larger, usually in increments of .0015 inches. The danger is that if you try to put a D piston in an A cylinder the piston to cylinder wall clearance will be so tight that a seizure might occur.
Pro-X Oversize Piston Kits
Pro-X is a marketing company that sells the surplus pistons from the Japanese company ART, which makes all the cast pistons for the Japanese motorcycle manufacturers. These pistons are the same quality as the OEM pistons, and they are available in sizes larger than the alpha pistons available from franchised dealers. Also the Pro-X pistons are usually priced lower than the OEM pistons. If the cylinder bore is slightly worn (up to .005 inches) with only a small area of bare aluminum exposed, you can install a Pro-X oversize piston.
The Pro-X pistons are graded oversize in smaller increments than Wiseco pistons, but a wider range than the OEM pistons. For example, Wiseco sizes are .010 inches and Pro-X is .001 inches increments. Before attempting to order a Pro-X piston, you must measure the cylinders bore at the smallest point and allow .002 inches clearance between the piston and cylinder.
Measuring the Ring Gap
The best way to know if the rings are worn is to measure the ring end gap. Put the ring in the cylinder and use the piston to push it down about 1/2 inch from the top evenly spaced. Now use a feeler gauge to measure the width of the ring gap. Normally, the maximum gap is 0.018-0.025 inch.
Well I am making HUGE PROGRESS on this bike.
PARTS PURCHASED SO FAR:
Bearing kit all balls for steering stem
Used swingarm from ebay
all balls swingarm bearing kit
Used linkage that had new bearings put in before removal
All new white side panels and rear fender
Everything else has been labor. Frame and subframe and all the engine covers are powder coated gloss black, the engine cases and cylinder were painted with rustoleum gloss black but it orange peeled a bit oh well.
This bike has a worn shifter shaft and the clutch basket is grooved a bit. But none of that is worth splitting the cases for or tearing into it for. As I spent 6 hours on it and it performed good except for the rear suspension being solid.
So I want a black IMS tank but do not want to spend the money on it, also wanted a black seat instead of black and yellow, so here is how I fixed all that;
Oh black airbox was first, this stuff is made for this application and I have done white tanks black with it with no issues for a long time.
PARTS I NEED;
Shifter for the bike
FRONT TE511 FENDER SUPPORT
FRONT TC449 NUMBER PLATE
Parts I had and used;
stock fat bar clamps from my te511
stock ducati hypermotard handlebars (1 1/8)
stock te511 handlebar pad
Coming along well!
PARTS PURCHASED SO FAR:
Bearing kit all balls for steering stem
Used swingarm from ebay
all balls swingarm bearing kit
Used linkage that had new bearings put in before removal
All new white side panels and rear fender
Everything else has been labor. Frame and subframe and all the engine covers are powder coated gloss black, the engine cases and cylinder were painted with rustoleum gloss black but it orange peeled a bit oh well.
This bike has a worn shifter shaft and the clutch basket is grooved a bit. But none of that is worth splitting the cases for or tearing into it for. As I spent 6 hours on it and it performed good except for the rear suspension being solid.
So I want a black IMS tank but do not want to spend the money on it, also wanted a black seat instead of black and yellow, so here is how I fixed all that;
Oh black airbox was first, this stuff is made for this application and I have done white tanks black with it with no issues for a long time.
PARTS I NEED;
Shifter for the bike
FRONT TE511 FENDER SUPPORT
FRONT TC449 NUMBER PLATE
Parts I had and used;
stock fat bar clamps from my te511
stock ducati hypermotard handlebars (1 1/8)
stock te511 handlebar pad
Coming along well!
Matt iannicelli
Husqvarna
Hi I realize this a really old post but I have a 2000 cr125, looks almost identical to this one. I was wondering how you get the gas tank off? Where are the bolts
R-J van Hulst
Husqvarna
Pro Class
one bolt at the point of where the tank meets the seat.
lift the seat and unscrew the bolt then the tank can be pulled to the rear and it comes loose from the frame.
Robert-Jan
lift the seat and unscrew the bolt then the tank can be pulled to the rear and it comes loose from the frame.
Robert-Jan