• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

250-500cc New WR 300 2010

Croc

Croc

Husqvarna
AA Class
Next week I will be walking into my local Dealer & plonking down a wad of cash on a new Bike. Now I have never purchased a brand new bike & there are conflicting stories as to How to run the bike in & what extra work I should do to the bike to help out with long term maintenance.
So I figure this is the place to get my questions answered. So fire away & don't be shy.
 
I should also point out that I will be purchasing from R&D Husky & they do seem to go the extra mile in helping out.
 
R&D sure went some extra miles for me (half the globe). Stefan is Da mAn.
I just finished my 2nd riding day on my new 300. As per my dealer's request, first ride was easy on the gas with 4% oil. Change trans oil, and check bolts at 3 hours.
Enjoy your great new bike.
 
Do some heat cycles. I think the manual talks about that with them getting progressively longer. Run 32:1 pre-mix for the first couple tanks. As mentioned, check all the fasteners and put anti-seize on anything going into a nutsert (e.g., tank and airbox). Get an hour meter. Change the gearbox oil at 5 hours. If you've got a good dealer, they'll maybe do your jetting. Get some spare spark plugs.
 
bigcahunak;109149 said:
R&D sure went some extra miles for me (half the globe). Stefan is Da mAn.
.
Click to expand...

yup, hes awesome. Just ordered frame gaurds from him for my WR as thye dont seem to exist in the US which is just bizarre
 
Everything everyone has said sounds good! If you do not revalve your forks, I have found after break in, changing to a lighter fork oil seems to me to make the fork feel better. (and you probably can do this yourself) For me also I tend to ride the rear brake, so I switch the stock pads out for semi-metallic so I do not boil them over. Heat cycles are a good Idea. Where I live there are alot of dirt roads so on break in I will tool the dirt roads taking it easy. Good luck!
 
give the spokes a 1/4 turn after a few rides
make sure the air filter is seated properly
check for air leaks around the reed cage. I've ordered Honda CR 250 @T gaskets for mine, will let you know how they work

I have about 300 miles on mine every bolt on mine has stayed tight. the factory used a liberal amount of blue and lock-tite on every bolt I've removed.

Other than jetting issues my 09 WR 300 has been perfect......... so far
 
Here are the 'must' fixes I had to do to my 09' wr300.

-Bend the shifter out and away from the clutch cover before it gouges it
-Grind the ribs off the mudflap and glue some kind of buffer in place before it eats into the swingarm
-Loctite the motor mount bolts. I lost 2 of them one day and thought my crank was out of balance it was knocking so bad.

Things I'd recommend:
-Vented rear disc. The solid rotor eats pads fast.
-Tires. Stocker are junk. Motoz are my fave, but its all personal preference
-Kehin PWK carb. The Mikuni is a sub-par carb IMO

I hear the 2010 pipe was upgraded over the 2009, which is a good thing cause the 09' was real thin and cracked at the welds, but I am a terror on pipes. I replaced mine with a PC platinum and 296 silencer, which are stout and make nice power.

It's a superb bike. The motor is absolute magic.
Just do the minor fixes and ride the wheels off of it :ride:
 
Check your manual and see if you have to change the piston and rebuild the forks every 800km to keep your warranty.

If you are going to put a steering dampner on it, scotts don't make a collar mount for it. MSC make a kit but you have to order the 2007 kit as the frame is a 2007 model.

I put a rekluse in mine and it made an awesome bike even better. Don't have to think about the clutch now.:thumbsup:

Enjoy your new ride mate.

If you're in the the Sydney area you should come up to Sunny Corner for a ride on the new machine.
 
Rear brake disc guard, proper bash plate, exhaust protector and bark busters. The suspension will take about 500kms to settle in so just relax for that period. Stephan is great to do the biz with.
 
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