• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

O2 Sensor Removal

DeanRM

Husqvarna
AA Class
I have a '09 TE250 and have to remove the O2 Sensor and install the jumper plug. Do I need to remove the tank to get at the wiring to install the plug? If so, any tricks to removing the tank?

Thanks!
 
I seem to recall a thread with pics on how to remove the fuel tank but you shouldn't need it. Leave the gas tank shrouds on the tank. It's all pretty obvious but be -very- careful of the plastic elbow fitting at the base of the tank. Drop it, snap the elbow off, and you're not going to be happy. There is no fuel shutoff so a small amount of fuel will dribble out when you disconnect the fuel hose. Huskys are very easy to work on and it takes only about 2 minutes to pull the tank.

While you're at it, pull the pump and do the rework in the following thread. I would do this even on a brand new bike rather than have it strand you in the boonies.

http://www.cafehusky.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3355
 
You might as well remove the tank as it's something you'll be doing when you wash the bike and it probably wouldn't hurt to carefully remove the pump and put either safety wire or a hose clamp on it(or zip-ty) as diagrammed.

Also safety wire the plug in the exhaust pipe to the hanger to the rear, if that hasn't been mentioned.
 
Randog;130250 said:
Rookie question, did they fix this on the 2010s?

Yes, they fixed the loose fuel pump issue for 2010. But there is a related problem with the fuel level sensor that breaks either the wires, the joint where the sensor attaches to its bracket, or the bracket itself. They tried to fix it for 2010 but it's not fixed. Never rely on it is the safest route. I got too trusting of my '08 low fuel light and had to push my bike a bit when it quit working.
 
Randog;130250 said:
Rookie question, did they fix this on the 2010s?

The new fuel pumps have a black plastic shield on the bottom half of the pump and a nice stainless steel hose clamp where people were putting the zip ty. The new pump seems to be made in China IIRC.
 
jlk_250;130253 said:
Yes, they fixed the loose fuel pump issue for 2010. But there is a related problem with the fuel level sensor that breaks either the wires, the joint where the sensor attaches to its bracket, or the bracket itself. They tried to fix it for 2010 but it's not fixed. Never rely on it is the safest route. I got too trusting of my '08 low fuel light and had to push my bike a bit when it quit working.

I have the 3gal tank to install I will check the sensor then, thanks for the info.
 
DeanRM;130207 said:
I have a '09 TE250 and have to remove the O2 Sensor and install the jumper plug.

Can anyone tell me why it is advantageous to remove the o2 sensor? I know that it is a part of the PowerUp kit, but from what I read about FI, it seems that you are taking away the system's ability to accurately mix the fuel for the conditions.

Does removing the o2 sensor make the system run rich all the time?

quoted from Husky service manual:

The items to be considered for the correct output of the fuel in every condition of
use of the vehicle are the followings:
- Air temperature in the intake manifold;
- Engine coolant temperature;
- Atmospheric pressure in the intake manifold (in the current position and altitude);
- Throttle opening percentage;
- SMR: Vehicle rollover;
- Rich or lean combustion mixture (O2 sensor);
- Battery voltage;
- Sensors source;
- Current gear position;
- Pulse width of fuel injector;
- Ignition coil;
- O2 heater.
 
It's advantageous to remove the O2 sensor because it is set to a very lean mixture--too lean for the engine to run well. If the O2 sensor was set to a more appropriate mixture it would probably help to leave it in there. The point of the O2 sensor is to reduce emissions, not to have a well-running engine.
 
If you do the PUK and remove the O2 sensor do you need to change the IBeat settings.

I ask because I know the mechanic at my dealer changed them from stock to make the bike run better and I am not sure how they would behave with the PUK installed.

So does using the resistor plug to bypass the O2 sensor pull up a separate map or does it just use the current settings?
 
Different map. The settings via iBeat will remain and may or may not be optimal.

The race map enables a richer AFR, probably around 13.2 across the board. It probably has a different ignition curve also.
 
Back
Top