-
Hi everyone,
As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.
When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.
Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.
Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.
Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.
Thanks for your patience and support!
Oil Change Drama
- Thread starter DirtyOldMan
- Start date
RidingDonkeys
Husqvarna
Pro Class
Congrats Donkeyses! That fits this thread just fine.....it took some lube to get the baby out.
Lube...and 17 hours of labor.
RidingDonkeys
Husqvarna
Pro Class
So I couldn't leave good enough alone. Chuffa over on ADV made mention that he matched his plug up to M10x1.0 instead of 1/8" NPT. Well, I didn't exactly get my valve in all the way, but I attributed this largely to not being able to get much pressure on it. So I found myself at my awesome local hardware store today that has every pipe fitting known to mankind...except a 1/8" NPT valve of course.
I came up with this heap of parts, which included a 3/8" NPT three way female fitting, two 3/8" NPT to 1/2" OD hose barbs, a 1/4" NPT valve, and a 3/8" NPT to 1/4" NPT male fitting. I liked the valve better, but it was a heavy bunch of parts that essentially restricted oil flow by less than 1/16 of an inch over the stock fitting. So I put it on the scale to make sure I wasn't wasting my time. Hmmm. i don't know if I want 250+ grams swinging from a hose on a thumper.
So I took the original solution off the bike. It weighs in at over 100 grams lighter.
And in case you were wondering what came from the factory, here is the stock fitting. It is close to 5/16" inner diameter. There is NOT a stop to prevent you from putting anything too far into the plug hole and blocking the flow...
So what does all this mean? It means that I had the best solution all along. I put my original valve on with a fresh coat of Yamalube 4, and used my bench vise to help me get it in all the way. I measured it off, and the thread is 27 threads per inch, which confirms 1/8th NPT. The valve I used, when screwed in completely, did not protrude into the oil flow when running. Once again, the part I bought is a PneumaticPlus MMTH-12, bought on Amazon here:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008EOXXYO/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
So I rotated it down when I reinstalled it, and still use my elbow barb to hook up a hose. Make sure you tilt it out enough so that it doesn't vibrate against the engine.
And now my oil changes look like this.
And what do you do with that nasty hose when you're done? Just plug it into the other side. You don't need anything tight fitting here, so pick your hose so it is just tight enough to slide on your barb and stay put. I'm not sure what I've got, since I just pulled some extra hose out of my homebrewing stash. But it works perfect. Needless to say, now I don't need to worry about a drippy hose hanging in my workshop.
My oil change is complete. Now I just need to figure out how to clean up all that oil in my SW-Motech skid plate.
I came up with this heap of parts, which included a 3/8" NPT three way female fitting, two 3/8" NPT to 1/2" OD hose barbs, a 1/4" NPT valve, and a 3/8" NPT to 1/4" NPT male fitting. I liked the valve better, but it was a heavy bunch of parts that essentially restricted oil flow by less than 1/16 of an inch over the stock fitting. So I put it on the scale to make sure I wasn't wasting my time. Hmmm. i don't know if I want 250+ grams swinging from a hose on a thumper.
So I took the original solution off the bike. It weighs in at over 100 grams lighter.
And in case you were wondering what came from the factory, here is the stock fitting. It is close to 5/16" inner diameter. There is NOT a stop to prevent you from putting anything too far into the plug hole and blocking the flow...
So what does all this mean? It means that I had the best solution all along. I put my original valve on with a fresh coat of Yamalube 4, and used my bench vise to help me get it in all the way. I measured it off, and the thread is 27 threads per inch, which confirms 1/8th NPT. The valve I used, when screwed in completely, did not protrude into the oil flow when running. Once again, the part I bought is a PneumaticPlus MMTH-12, bought on Amazon here:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008EOXXYO/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
So I rotated it down when I reinstalled it, and still use my elbow barb to hook up a hose. Make sure you tilt it out enough so that it doesn't vibrate against the engine.
And now my oil changes look like this.
And what do you do with that nasty hose when you're done? Just plug it into the other side. You don't need anything tight fitting here, so pick your hose so it is just tight enough to slide on your barb and stay put. I'm not sure what I've got, since I just pulled some extra hose out of my homebrewing stash. But it works perfect. Needless to say, now I don't need to worry about a drippy hose hanging in my workshop.
My oil change is complete. Now I just need to figure out how to clean up all that oil in my SW-Motech skid plate.
drzcharlie
Husqvarna
Pro Class
Alrighty, that rips it. That's the mod I will use. Thanks RD.
johnsweet
Husqvarna
AA Class
or you could just get the form a funnel, www.formafunnel.com no mess no trip to the store for fittings
AUS_TR650
Husqvarna
AA Class
Do you have the female to go onto the nipple? I had a look around work for spare but no joy
Gibster
Husqvarna
AA Class
Yes, I have a couple of them at work. Thought I came up with a good idea and you beat me to it! PM me. Maybe we can work something out.Do you have the female to go onto the nipple? I had a look around work for spare but no joy
AUS_TR650
Husqvarna
AA Class
It's all good; thanks for the offer though. Our engines use them for bleeding the common rail fuel system so I have to look harder or book one out to an engine rebuild.
Geeza
Husqvarna
AA Class
Had a re think on this oil tank drain and got a few bits from the hydraulic workshop. The thread on the original fitting is a M10 x 1mm parallel thread, however an 1/8 npt will fit but will not screw in very far as it is a tapered thread. Used an M10 adaptor screwed in with an o ring washer and thread lock then made up an oil hose with a blanking plug on the end.
Reinstalled original fitting but faced the drain port towards the engine and ran the hose above the cylinder head and down the vent tube on the right hand side of the bike.
Will get a dust cap for the bottom fitting (piece of larger hose slipped over fitting) and once the bash plate is fitted will sort out a way to secure the end, for now it is zip tied to the vent line.
Filled the oil tank, cracked the drain plug to bleed any air and re torqued.
Went this way because I found the option of a tap or bleed valve added a lot of weight to the unsupported original fitting, this way I get the benefit of no extra stress on the original oil hose lines and the drain plug is located down near the bottom of the bike just in front of the sump plug. (also cheap)
Reinstalled original fitting but faced the drain port towards the engine and ran the hose above the cylinder head and down the vent tube on the right hand side of the bike.
Will get a dust cap for the bottom fitting (piece of larger hose slipped over fitting) and once the bash plate is fitted will sort out a way to secure the end, for now it is zip tied to the vent line.
Filled the oil tank, cracked the drain plug to bleed any air and re torqued.
Went this way because I found the option of a tap or bleed valve added a lot of weight to the unsupported original fitting, this way I get the benefit of no extra stress on the original oil hose lines and the drain plug is located down near the bottom of the bike just in front of the sump plug. (also cheap)
Geeza
Husqvarna
AA Class
I have been asked what fittings I used on the above modification to the oil tank drain.
The fittings are: M10 to 9/16 JLC adaptor, 10mm Dowty seal washer for the adaptor to original fitting, hose end fittings are two female 9/16 JLC to 1/4 Push Lock fittings, 9/16 JLC blanking plug and a length of 1/4 Push Lock hyd hose.
JLC fittings are metal to metal sealing type fittings that have a 37 degree flare (sealing surface angle) and straight United National Fine straight threads (UNF)
Push Lock hoses work with the applicable fitting to make up hose assemblies without crimping/swaging.
If you can get a male M10 Push Lock fitting, this will negate the need for a M10 to JLC adaptor allowing you to connect hose direct to original bike fitting(you will still need the sealing washer). I also used a tiny dot of stud lock on the adaptor fitting when I fitted it into the original fitting. These fittings are very common items, check out a few hyd workshops/hose suppliers near you.
Hope this helps.
The fittings are: M10 to 9/16 JLC adaptor, 10mm Dowty seal washer for the adaptor to original fitting, hose end fittings are two female 9/16 JLC to 1/4 Push Lock fittings, 9/16 JLC blanking plug and a length of 1/4 Push Lock hyd hose.
JLC fittings are metal to metal sealing type fittings that have a 37 degree flare (sealing surface angle) and straight United National Fine straight threads (UNF)
Push Lock hoses work with the applicable fitting to make up hose assemblies without crimping/swaging.
If you can get a male M10 Push Lock fitting, this will negate the need for a M10 to JLC adaptor allowing you to connect hose direct to original bike fitting(you will still need the sealing washer). I also used a tiny dot of stud lock on the adaptor fitting when I fitted it into the original fitting. These fittings are very common items, check out a few hyd workshops/hose suppliers near you.
Hope this helps.
glitch_oz
Husqvarna
Pro Class
What about the permanently oil-filled "drain" hose?
It's filled with oil now and...
needs thicker/ heavier material/ hose to hold that oil all the time, rather than just a thinner/ clear PVC tube for drainage?
All up it might not make much of a difference?
Neat fixes, all of them
Engenia
Husqvarna
AA Class
Thanks Geeza. This is an elegant solution for changing oil when out "in the bush".
I followed the form, but used lower pressure parts :-
Speedflow: M10x1.0 male to 5/16" tail (pn: 414-M10-05-BLK)
Speedflow: -6 female to 5/16" tail (pn: 411-06-05)
Speedflow:-6 flare plug (pn: SF806-06)
10mm Dowty seal (o-ring washer)
600 mm 5/16 oil hose & hose clamps
15mm walking stick tip + silicone grease to help it slip over the plug.
total cost just under AUD 40.