Pottering around...

[DeLewis]

Fair enough...I'll see how I go. Planning to do something about that front guard, too....hopefully preventing that sort of thing.


Finally got the last few bits for the Pod-Mod, finishing off that chapter, hopefully.

Xmas came early....a small mountain of 2. hand/ but as new stuff bought here, there and everywhere over the last 3 weeks.

More garage fun on the coming weekend :-)

Fair enough...I'll see how I go. Planning to do something about that front guard, too....hopefully preventing that sort of thing.


Finally got the last few bits for the Pod-Mod, finishing off that chapter, hopefully.

Xmas came early....a small mountain of 2. hand/ but as new stuff bought here, there and everywhere over the last 3 weeks.

More garage fun on the coming weekend :-)

Thanks glitch oz for the the very helpful info. I've just bought on of the last Stradas in Oz and am pretty keen to get the pod-mod done ASAP. Just wondered if you bought your 6229 pod filter from Uni filter Oz which has a 55mm intake diameter compared it just over 57mm for the equivalent US model? (Incidentally, when I called uni filter today they told me they have no connection to the US company of the same name). Cheers.

 

[drzcharlie]

Scroll down to Airbox Mods and find the pod mod section. Quirkys parts list is there. http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=24352468&postcount=4293

Here is the list (you will have to hover over the blank spots to see the parts numbers, for whatever reason this website is disabling the Part#'s links, yes they are links):

From UNI Filter in the US. 2 stage foam filter Part # UP-6229AST (reminder the "A" is important for the 15 degree angle)

From Silicon intakes. 90 degree 2.25" elbow Part # SIL000360
Silicon tube joiner 2.25" Part # JOI000111

From UNI Filter in Oz. Crankcase breather pod, 13mm intake 40mm x 40mm

 

[glitch_oz]

Thanks glitch oz for the the very helpful info. I've just bought on of the last Stradas in Oz and am pretty keen to get the pod-mod done ASAP. Just wondered if you bought your 6229 pod filter from Uni filter Oz which has a 55mm intake diameter compared it just over 57mm for the equivalent US model?

Hey, another Melbournian :-)

Yes, got the locally made one. It's also only a single stage filter, no pre-filter sock.

BikeMart in Ringwood have a spare on the shelf. Crankcase breather pod BP13 also from BikeMart.
Elbow, rubber joiner + pool filter sock (as pre-filter) from Bunnings plumbing dept.
The silicon joiner from AutoBarn.
The self-adhesive Neoprene sealing strip to cover the cut in the airbox from ClarksRubber

(Incidentally, when I called uni filter today they told me they have no connection to the US company of the same name). Cheers.

Yo, that seems to be the case.

 

[Greg Jetnikoff]

Again I say it. keep an eye on the UNi filter foam. I have had 2 different ones disintegrate into foam crumbles after a couple of years. And that was with using their filter oil and NOT washing it in petrol.

 

[glitch_oz]

Again I say it. keep an eye on the UNi filter foam. I have had 2 different ones disintegrate into foam crumbles after a couple of years. And that was with using their filter oil and NOT washing it in petrol.

Tks for the warning. :-)
Got a spare 6229 on the shelf already.
And I DO wash 'em in petrol, always have.

 

[drzcharlie]

I wash mine is hot soapy water. Dawn Dish Soap. I figure if its good enough to clean oiled up wildlife it should work on filters. And it does.

 

[Greg Jetnikoff]

I pour dishwashing liquid detergent directly onto the foam. Squish it through the the foam then was out in hot water ( on to a patch of ground I need the oil killing weeds, until the foam stops. It doesnt wash ALL the oil out and leaves some, but does remove all the dirt. Doesn't need as much oil to re-oil it and spreads even easier.

 

[DeLewis]

Hey, another Melbournian :-)

Yes, got the locally made one. It's also only a single stage filter, no pre-filter sock.

BikeMart in Ringwood have a spare on the shelf. Crankcase breather pod BP13 also from BikeMart.
Elbow, rubber joiner + pool filter sock (as pre-filter) from Bunnings plumbing dept.
The silicon joiner from AutoBarn.
The self-adhesive Neoprene sealing strip to cover the cut in the airbox from ClarksRubber






Yo, that seems to be the case.

Thanks mate, I'll go and raid Bunnings and Autobarn for these items. If it's of any assistance to other Aussies having difficulties procuring the silicone elbows for the pod-mod, I've just ordered one from siliconedirect.com.au - $20 +$8 postage.

And thanks DRZCharlie for the links to the item list - unfortunately, it was going to cost something like $60 for the silicone elbow and similar or more for the 6229A filter from the US with the shipping fees!

At risk at preaching to the converted, what a great bike! (Even though the known issues are an irritation). Much sweeter engine than my old KTM 640 (which had plenty of design/quality "issues"), great handling and an ideal touring platform.

Glad to see we've got a few TRs in Victoria and other parts of Oz. Hopefully there's an opportunity for a get together with fellow TR owners in this neck of the woods.

 

[ozav8r]

"Glad to see we've got a few TRs in Victoria and other parts of Oz. Hopefully there's an opportunity for a get together with fellow TR owners in this neck of the woods."
And how fortuitous that we don't live in Queensland, where such a gathering of TR's would surely be illegal

Let's celebrate with a Husky gathering I say!!

 

[nev..]

Glad to see we've got a few TRs in Victoria and other parts of Oz. Hopefully there's an opportunity for a get together with fellow TR owners in this neck of the woods.

A few of us (also members on another forum) were at a weekend meetup at a country pub in Tassie a few months ago. Well.. I should say the bike owners turned up. Tazzierob and I turned up on our Terras. Glitch and another Strada owner turned up on their other bikes.

 

[Greg Jetnikoff]

Ozavr8,
so true, so true

 

[glitch_oz]

One for the Aussies...(as we can't buy the US item locally!)

Replacement Radiator Cap (nearest fit and 1.1kg ) is a
Tridon CB 16110

I was looking for a local product specifically, available all over AUS and generic, if possible.
The above item should be pretty close on all counts.

Goes on like a greased pig's tail, too...no more knotting up fingers to do/ undo the bastard OEM-thing.

Bought at: Bursons Auto Parts, $6.50 (trade)

 

[ozav8r]

That's brilliant info - the OEM cap sucks!

One for the Aussies...(as we can't buy the US item locally!)

Replacement Radiator Cap (nearest fit and 1.1kg ) is a
Tridon CB 16110

I was looking for a local product specifically, available all over AUS and generic, if possible.
The above item should be pretty close on all counts.

Goes on like a greased pig's tail, too...no more knotting up fingers to do/ undo the bastard OEM-thing.

Bought at: Bursons Auto Parts, $6.50 (trade)

 

[drzcharlie]

I posted this in the parts index on ADV here: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=24330343&postcount=4253 Thanks

 

[glitch_oz]

I posted this in the parts index on ADV here: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=24330343&postcount=4253 Thanks

Thanks

 

[glitch_oz]

Just a little sidestand switch mod, without cutting any wiring.
Removed plug, removed switch. Trimmed a standard automotive blade-fuse (the older, bigger style, min. 10amp) to bridge the 2 outer pins in the connector (pins 1+3). Heatshrink, done.
Another potential trouble area out of the way.

1.piece of standard heatshrink went over the front half of the plug and the fuse to make sure that the fuse is kept in place firmly.....2. lot of adhesive heatshrink went over the whole lot, without heating the mid-section to keep the OEM-plug fairly free of "goo", if the procedure ever needs to be reversed. Also popped a bit of heatshrink over the pin+thread that the switch sits on to keep corrosion down and the thread clean.

Using the fuse as the jumper keeps the option of a clean and quick reversal, going back to stock setup anytime and within minutes.

 

[engineerk9]

I an torn between getting the staintune or the GPR single can. I will make a tank or go for a safari tank.

I have the first of the Safari tanks, added a 10mm preload spacer to the front forks to compensate for the additional weight
I use the GPR single can, 9kgs lighter & possibly quieter
Booster plug, I also modified the throttle into quicker action - original proved hard on my wrist, standing on the pegs & needing to hoist the front wheel etc
Have Karoo 3 on the front - 20psi in the dirt, 25psi on the tar Heidenhau K60 rear, 27psi dirt, 35psi tar
Just ridden the Birdsville Track, 4600klms about 900klms dirt (road between Windorah & Birdsville shit-house)
Use a K&P stainless oil filter from Jays Auto, improves both filtration & oil flow
I have a Scottoiler for chain lube & a homemade oil tank, fitted to the righthand side redundant exhaust mounts
Andy Strapz Pannier bags & frames
I purchased some time ago a new airbox, as the OEM was not designed by an engineer - it's a disgrace
I'll 3D scan & see what I can develop, I rather like the Pod mod
I've drilled the swing arm, amazing the amount of water it collects
Also, over jumps the swing arm bends & the tyre contacts under the seat

 

[engineerk9]

A random thread about a little garage in Oz...and some ideas about farkling a Strada (yeah...just because it was one of the last TR's availablle and there weren't any Terras left, shrug).

Bought the bike to put on the blocks for the first 6months or so of its life, fiddle and farkle, get a feel and an idea of how it's put together, and make up some bits I reckon I'll need for my riding lateron.
It'll transform to a 21" front (when/ if I ever come across a suitable BMW wheel)... I might keep the 17 rear, 'cause there's plenty of rubber of choice around for the riding I plan to do with it.
And I hate fixing tubed hoops! Especially rears!

I'll update the thread with thoughts and pics as the project rolls along.
There's still a long summer + autumn/fall ahead

I use rubber grease all over the tubes, reduces or eliminate "pinch" punctures
I agree rears are more difficult than fronts - Karoo 3 on the 21inch front Heidenhau K60 on the 18 inch rear

 

[engineerk9]

Just a little sidestand switch mod, without cutting any wiring.
Removed plug, removed switch. Trimmed a standard automotive blade-fuse (the older, bigger style, min. 10amp) to bridge the 2 outer pins in the connector (pins 1+3). Heatshrink, done.
Another potential trouble area out of the way.

1.piece of standard heatshrink went over the front half of the plug and the fuse to make sure that the fuse is kept in place firmly.....2. lot of adhesive heatshrink went over the whole lot, without heating the mid-section to keep the OEM-plug fairly free of "goo", if the procedure ever needs to be reversed. Also popped a bit of heatshrink over the pin+thread that the switch sits on to keep corrosion down and the thread clean.

Using the fuse as the jumper keeps the option of a clean and quick reversal, going back to stock setup anytime and with minutes.

I did the cut the wire thing, also moved the spring pivot pin to give more positive up & down, also a different spring as the OEM kept popping-off

 

[DeLewis]

I have the first of the Safari tanks, added a 10mm preload spacer to the front forks to compensate for the additional weight
I use the GPR single can, 9kgs lighter & possibly quieter
Booster plug, I also modified the throttle into quicker action - original proved hard on my wrist, standing on the pegs & needing to hoist the front wheel etc
Have Karoo 3 on the front - 20psi in the dirt, 25psi on the tar Heidenhau K60 rear, 27psi dirt, 35psi tar
Just ridden the Birdsville Track, 4600klms about 900klms dirt (road between Windorah & Birdsville shit-house)
Use a K&P stainless oil filter from Jays Auto, improves both filtration & oil flow
I have a Scottoiler for chain lube & a homemade oil tank, fitted to the righthand side redundant exhaust mounts
Andy Strapz Pannier bags & frames
I purchased some time ago a new airbox, as the OEM was not designed by an engineer - it's a disgrace
I'll 3D scan & see what I can develop, I rather like the Pod mod
I've drilled the swing arm, amazing the amount of water it collects
Also, over jumps the swing arm bends & the tyre contacts under the seat

Hey 'K9, I'm intrigued by your mention of taking a scan of the OEM airbox and perhaps remodelling it? This is the first bike I've owned with a fuel 'cell' to lower the centre of gravity and it strikes me as more trouble than its worth. This is probably a ridiculous suggestion (feel free to heap scorn upon the idea) but would there be any merit to redesigning the fuel tank and airbox so that they are configured in a more conventional way.

On a general note, are you happy with how the bike performed on your trip?