• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Pottering around...

This is just for the "chronicle"-part of the thread.....it just might help someone else, somewhere, sometime.

Separate thread here:
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/dead-strada.82505/


As feared at time of purchase of the bike..... the shit hit the fan about 3 months ago.
The Strada just rolled over and died and the whole merry dance of dealers, MOSS/OSS/warranties etc etc started to take its dreaded course.

_________________________________________________________________





Background:
Go for a 1/2 day photo-ride, all fine.
Top up fuel after the last ride at the usual local pump (high volume, major hwy outlet). Wash and rinse bike. Hook up to usual battery tender. Restart bike after 2-3 weeks, starts fine.




Symptoms:
Good cold start, runs ok on choke/cold settings.
After ~60 secs run time, idle starts to turn rough, lumpy, engine dies.
Re-start possible immediately.....to die again after 10 seconds or so.


Measures taken before involving dealer:
Drain tank
Replace battery
Check + clean (replace) Pre-filter sock and pod-filter foam,
check for loose/ damaged/ kinked vacuum hoses/ lines/ cables/ tubes around engine.
Nothing found.

Re-plug standard RF antenna, removing the ignition-key bypass.
Fuel pump check: seems ok
No errors on dash. All lights etc working.


Dealer:
Had the bike 8 weeks so far, no electronic checking can be done (apart from hooking up the KTM service tablet and wiping the "service-spanner" on the dash)

Comms between dealer and PFG National Service Manager (the old importer as KTM doesn't want anything to do with those bikes) are PAINFULLY**************************************** slow!!!

The first indication that ANYTHING was done on the bike over the last 8 weeks were a few phone pics showing me a slightly dirty stepper motor....and supposedly they followed my urging to use another CO2 sensor from some other bike/ brand/model/ no idea what....and supposedly the first run turned out fine, but ....SUPPOSEDLY....they've had that before.
(without ever even mentioning what they'd done to even get that far :bang:).
SUPPOSEDLY!).
We'll see what happens next...oops, re-phrase: if anything happens sometime.
 
Sorry to hear that glitch_oz. Hoping for all TR650 owners sake that KTM take on their responsibilities after having purchased Husqvarna.
 
I think we're pretty much on our own with those bikes. I'm not going to Canberra for a week or 6...until they might be able to sort it out.

If it works out with the local guys or you know your way around and/ or got a savvy grease-monkey at hand...fine.
If it doesn't....take a spanner to it and flog the thing in parts over the next couple of years, then dump the rest in the recycle bin.
Not getting too fussed/ anxious by the situation, life's too precious and there IS the Suzuki in the garage (:cheers:) ... a rotten Husky isn't the end of trips and travels for this old dog :-)))


Now...THAT shoulda been a Husky and a KLR last weekend :excuseme:

BullAnt_16.JPG
 
glitch_oz said:
I think we're pretty much on our own with those bikes. I'm not going to Canberra for a week or 6...until they might be able to sort it out.

If it works out with the local guys or you know your way around and/ or got a savvy grease-monkey at hand...fine.
If it doesn't....take a spanner to it and flog the thing in parts over the next couple of years, then dump the rest in the recycle bin.
Not getting too fussed/ anxious by the situation, life's too precious and there IS the Suzuki in the garage (:cheers:) ... a rotten Husky isn't the end of trips and travels for this old dog :-)))


Now...THAT shoulda been a Husky and a KLR last weekend :excuseme:

BullAnt_16.JPG
Click to expand...

I know - there are lots of possible small adventure bikes - however for me the TR does it for me - bit like a high maintenance Italian woman
 
glitch_oz said:
OK....some days you just get beaten. :-(

Dismantling was quick...just watch this connector (cut the cabletie + disconnect), as that's the one that can result in the dreaded EWS-error and a dead bike after playtime's over.

Husky_164.JPG


Pull the front 2 front clips holding the posts of the dash and check if you can pull the connector off the dash-socket (push the tongue down)....I couldn't, not enough space.


Husky_165.JPG



Husky_166.JPG



Had to drop the cross-brace to get to the 3rd post-clip in the back.


Husky_167.JPG


That's it


Husky_168.JPG




With the 8 Torx6 screws removed and the top cover off....the right of the 2 pins is the target.....or rather, the connecting "legs" of the switch underneath the pin.
In my case, the white plastic horizontal tab is still intact, preventing the removal of the pin.
And that means there's absolutely NO ACCESS to those 2 tiny 'legs" to attach the 2 wires to for an external switch.




Husky_169.JPG




Asking Greg/ DandyDisco which legs to attach the tap to, it's the 2 on the left (facing west...or...9 o' clock with the dash in the normal, natural position)


Husky_170.JPG



Outsmarted myself and pried the PCB out of the back-casing to solder or glue the wires to the bottom of the legs (as they usually stick through the PCB with the factory solder-points below securing the component/ switch in this case, to the board.)


Husky_172.JPG




All ready to roll and with some epoxy mixed up, I had another quick look at the 2 "tapping points" with a magnifying glass...and SHIT, those little "solderpoints" rather look like some sort of electronic component, some micro-resistor or capacitor or something !!
And I was seconds away from sticking a mighty epoxy-turd on top of each!

I'm beat!

Thankfully it all still works fine after an anxious re-assembly....3 hours blown, I'll have a beer now and think of some other goof-up I could fabricate :-))
Maybe some other day....when my S-button has packed up.
Click to expand...
 
The plastic 'S' push button breaks really easily. When that happens, this modification is necessary to restore 'S' button functionality through the use of an external button/switch.
 
Hulksta said:
Lots of useful info here thanks.

Any updates? Still got the bike?
Click to expand...

No updates, bike at dealers for 3 months after sudden refusal to run. Due to lack of diagnostics
the "replace/bodge + see" approach turned up a shoddy OEM O2sensor in the end.
Running ok ever since (with the usual stalling issues). Not a bike I'll take much further away from home than what I can
recover with a trailer by the end of the weekend.
Still tinkering with some ideas about that S-button fix, but have to wait until it breaks to take things further.
(or someone helps out with a busted/ semi-destroyed unit I can play with).
Would like to make a universal "plug+play" fix.

Thanks for looking in :-)
 
When my button broke I fixed it with a two part (primer and glue) Selleys plastic bond. That worked for a while, but the actual contact area where it breaks is so small and flexes by design so it's hard to get a permanent bond. I glued it back the second time, and then I got two very small strips of gaffer tape, and used them to brace the 90° joint top and bottom. So far so good after a few 1000km, I expect the tape to hold things in place if/when the repair brakes again, and then to continue fuctioning normally until the glue on the tape deteriorates, maybe a couple of years.
 
glitch_oz said:
No updates, bike at dealers for 3 months after sudden refusal to run. Due to lack of diagnostics
the "replace/bodge + see" approach turned up a shoddy OEM O2sensor in the end.
Running ok ever since (with the usual stalling issues). Not a bike I'll take much further away from home than what I can
recover with a trailer by the end of the weekend.
Still tinkering with some ideas about that S-button fix, but have to wait until it breaks to take things further.
(or someone helps out with a busted/ semi-destroyed unit I can play with).
Would like to make a universal "plug+play" fix.

Thanks for looking in :-)
Click to expand...

I have run my bike with the O2 sensor disconnected for the past 850 km with no problems at all. No fault lights etc.

The disconnection is part of my trial and error approach to solving the stalling issue and so far has given great results.
Previously I had a 124 injector and Dyna Boost set up which worked perfectly well, but here in the Philippines the Dyna boost is proving difficult to obtain in the numbers required (I currently know and have helped 40 owners) so I was looking for a viable low cost alternative.

I currently run with a 124 Injector, a Variable Resistor Air Temperature spoofer and no O2 sensor connected. So long as I keep the bike on 100 octane fuel I have absolutely no problems and fully loaded (luggage and passenger) it returned 21 km/ltr on twisty mountain roads running at 80-100 kmph. I have 15/49 sprockets too.

So the current theory - add the injector, spoof the air temperature and do not allow the ecu to learn from the O2 sensor.
At the moment all is good, but I do wonder if the ecu has a default setting where it just runs lean when it does not get the O2 sensor feedback. Anyway the 124 Injector has got that sorted and the air temperature spoofer is working too.
 
nev.. said:
When my button broke I fixed it with a two part (primer and glue) Selleys plastic bond. That worked for a while, but the actual contact area where it breaks is so small and flexes by design so it's hard to get a permanent bond. I glued it back the second time, and then I got two very small strips of gaffer tape, and used them to brace the 90° joint top and bottom. So far so good after a few 1000km, I expect the tape to hold things in place if/when the repair brakes again, and then to continue fuctioning normally until the glue on the tape deteriorates, maybe a couple of years.
Click to expand...

The new part i produced is working great, no gluing, just open and pull out the broken part and drop the new part in the hole and re-assemble!

Super easy and works 100 times better than the hard to press stock thing :D
 
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