• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Power Commander 5 and Autotune on a '13 TE 310R

Johnrg said:
If you can kick it, decompressor may be fine. If you cannot kick reasonably then it is. The EarthX has more cranking power and doesn't bog down like the Yuasa. It can negate a lot of the poor starting issues. Once you get the filter cage and stack opened up with Map 3 you probably will be good. Consider sending Zip Ty your v stack too as he milled mine out when I had my ECU done.
Click to expand...

I agree about the kickstart with regards to the auto-decompress.

but hell, the corked-up velocity stack has double cut lines on it to show you where to hacksaw... and a light polish with fine emory cloth makes it look pro.

The reason this stuck with me after two years is that I failed to notice the lines when I modified mine; and instead I used a hole saw after which I spent a lot of time smoothing the rough edges. ....then (!) I saw the 2 lines. shit.
 
Tugsy said:
How can one tell if they have the TE velocity stack or the TXC? Is there an easy visual? Thanks.
Click to expand...

well, you'll have about 24hp (at the crank) if you have a '13-'14 TE310 (& 250?) with the stock velocity stack installed. 18RWHP.

next time you pull or clean the air filter, look in the intake. If you see a red "trumpet", pull it out (or use a mirror?). If it's basically a hollow tube, you're good to go. If the downstream end is a buncha little holes (~8mm), either toss it or modify it. Instant 7hp gain.

BTW, it's basically an interference fit, but you could loosen the air boot clamp if you need to remove/re-install it.

A velocity stack smooths out the air flow (Laminar smooth almost) which increases the volume of air, going thru the intake over time. It's one of the only passive devices I can think of that you add to an upstream flow and results in a larger downstream flow. Fluid dynamics is frikken black magic.

caveat: any numbers are guesstimates... including model numbers. it's the internet, and I'm wrong a lot.
 
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