Power Commander V + Autotune install

[Clete]

Post install ride:
Woohoo, no more stalling. The hanging idle issue did not show up, and seems to pull harder.

 

[DBRIDER09]

Do tell...how's the H ride?

Well worth the money. Put it on my terra and the bike has a new attitude and I like it. No more off idle stalls, and mid range to top end pulls much better and if you adjust your fuel at 0 % throttle add 6% from1250 rpm to 2250 the compression braking almost goes away. When rolling off throttle so much smother.

 

[DBRIDER09]

I took a look at the maps from the Powercommander today.

here's the fuel table from the stock husky map:
View attachment 27389

then I downloaded the map from the PCV and accepted the trims. here's the modified map:

View attachment 27391

This is with a target AFR of 13.2 at > 5% throttle.

I'm at 300 ft above sea level. (i've attached the map for anyone who's interested.)


I don't understand how there's a 1 in the 9k x 20% throttle cell. a) this motor hasn't seen 9k rpm, and even if it did, it wouldn't be at 20% throttle.

--Chris

When I talked to power commander about air fuel and target, they did say to use 13.2 but to start from 5% throttle at 1000 rpm to 100% throttle and 9000. Not to set target at 2% or lower throttle position. So far has worked well for me. Only had two auto tune runs so far will accept trim values after my next long ride. We should compare, see how close our bikes are.

 

[DBHUSKY]

Just bought a Pcv and put it on my strada.. I've tried the stock map which gave me a 3500 rpm idle after three rides. Next I tried a map listed in this thread and the bike stalls when it gets to operating temp. Any ideas? I'd rather not spend more money on an autotune. Any maps someone can let me try. My bike is bone stock and I love it but this map issue has to go! I ride between 300-400 altitude in the northeast USA .
Thanks

 

[Coffee]

Just bought a Pcv and put it on my strada.. I've tried the stock map which gave me a 3500 rpm idle after three rides. Next I tried a map listed in this thread and the bike stalls when it gets to operating temp. Any ideas? I'd rather not spend more money on an autotune. Any maps someone can let me try. My bike is bone stock and I love it but this map issue has to go! I ride between 300-400 altitude in the northeast USA .
Thanks

I vaguely recall someone stating one of the theories is: the electric valve which is in the emissions canister circuit area is causing issues for some - if it were me I'd try contacting dynojet on Monday to get more information. They are aware of the hanging idle issue on the TR650s.

 

[Ian Baker]

Yesterday, I installed the Power Commander V and an Autotune unit on my TR 650 Strada. I took some pictures, so hopefully, they'll be helpful to anyone else who decides to try this for themselves.

First thing I did was to remove all the plastic. That's been covered in other threads, so I won't waste your time describing it. (suffice to say, a 1/4" air ratchet is your friend!)

Next up, I unplugged the fuel injector connector. The fuel injector is in the gap between the "tank" and fuel pump. Ordinarily, this connector is situated at 5 o'clock, but that gets in the way. Pull the connector off, and you will find that it swivels. I moved it down to 6 o'clock, so i could thread the TPS connector and Crank Position Sensor wires downwards.

There is metal clip on the connector. Push it inwards, and the connector slips off. here's a pic:

my finger is depressing the clip at the top. once it's pressed in (I used a screwdriver) it slides off easily.

Now, thread the PowerCommander Harness down through the newly created opening on the right side of the fuel injector. The TPS Connector is kinda big, so it'll need some jiggling to get down.

Now, onto the TPS connector. This one gave me the most trouble. Using a small prybar and a screwdriver, I managed to get this off.

This is what you're looking for:

Push in the clip. I found the bend in this small prybar was the best way to get to it. a straight screwdriver didn't have the right angle

then, while the clip is pushed in, take a long thin screwdriver and gently push the connector down. Once it slides off, comes the fun part. The stock connector needs to mate with the male connector on the PCV harness, and the PCV female goes over the stock TPS. You'll be able to get it, just have patience. A long screwdriver will allow you to manipulate it into place. I used the prybar to depress the clip again, and it went on pretty easily.

Now, onto the Crank Position Sensor. Remove the regulator to gain access to the harness down there:

you see that neatly tied bundle of connectors? you're looking for this one:

Connect the powercommander wires to the crank position sensor (the instructions tell you which colors go to which, I don't have them in front of me so i don't want to steer you wrong)

Here's a pic of mine installed:

I zip-tied them all up and put the regulator back on

Now, you can go back up top and connect the fuel injection harness. The stock plug goes into the powercommander female, and the powercommander male goes into the fuel injector.

If you don't have the auto-tune, then all that's left is to hook up the negative lead on the PC, and unplug the O2 sensor.

Next, I took off the heat-shield from the front pipe, and removed the O2 sensor.

here you can see the 2 sensors side by side. the Autotune sensor is on the left.

The connector on the Autotune O2 sensor is kinda big, and wont' go between the frame too easily. believe it or not, the O2 sensor is smaller in width than the connector, so (keeping the protective cover on) I threaded it sensor first between the frame and airbox, near the fuel inejctor. then, i moved the connector north and zip tied it to the frame near the coolant catch tank.

Before zip-tying, plug in the autotune cable (the one with the bare wires) and push the catch home.

I mounted the PC and the autotune on the battery. Thread the autotune cable back towards the battery area, and connect all of the bare wires to their respective color terminators.

Each termination point has a small set-screw that holds the wire, perpendicular to the hole that the wire goes in. Loosen that screw and push the wire in. There is a rubber diaphragm that gets punctured once you put the wires in, then tighten the set screw. do this for all 6 wires.

Edit: Be very careful where you put the excess auto-tune wire. the left side of the throttle body is where the throttle cable is. don't stuff the cable down there or your throttle will get stuck. (don't ask me how I know!)

Next, you need a source of switched power. I used the tail-light. Dynojet supplies a posi-tap. It's the green/(white i think) wire.

ground the black wire. Make sure that you plug in the bus connector for the power commander into both the auto tune unit and the PC. also, make sure that the CANBUS terminator is in place on the autotune. the autotune should have no open ports.

Next, I hooked up the Power commander to my laptop:

and enabled the auto-tune in the powercommander software.

There are no AFR targets in the stock map. I was on a call with dynojet tech support, and the tech copied/pasted 13.2 into the AFR target table. we'll see how that works out. The tech also updated the firmware on my power commander (kinda surprised it was out of date, considering that this is such a new offering, but whatever)

Now, all that's left is to button up the bike, and take it for a ride. (as you may have noticed, the weather isn't cooperating in my neck of the woods. it's either raining, or i have to work.)

As an aside, I know you guys all discuss what racks to add onto your bikes, but i gotta say, I kinda dig the look without any racks.

But, I do appreciate the utility, so I put my rack back on.

Hope this helps anyone who wants to do this for themselves.

--Chris

Hi Chris, I've bought a PCV and Autotune from ebay and have it just about installed, except fit the power supply for the Autotune. Can you give me some more details about how you connected into the tail light supply and ground?

 

[drzcharlie]

Great write up...thanks

 

[chris1261]

@Ian,

I used the supplied posi-tap and connected it to the tail light (to get key-on power) If i remember, it's the green/white one. I ran a lead to the negative side of the battery for ground.

 

[Ian Baker]

Thanks Chris just connected it up, but took the earth from one of the posidrive screws near the tail light as it saved me cutting the shield on the cable. Now time to play with the maps!

 

[Lekolite]

@Ian,

I used the supplied posi-tap and connected it to the tail light (to get key-on power) If i remember, it's the green/white one. I ran a lead to the negative side of the battery for ground.

Hi Chris,
Did you buy the PCV and Auto Tune that was specific for the TR650 or did you but some other unit?
Thanks

 

[chris1261]

Hi Chris,
Did you buy the PCV and Auto Tune that was specific for the TR650 or did you but some other unit?
Thanks

Lekolite, I believe the auto-tune is the same for multiple applications. I don't have it anymore (sold the bike) but if i recall it's model 101?

 

[Delnari]

Have been running the PCV for almost one year now and the bike is still running great! I did remove the air canister at the same time. No Autotune installed though. Idle is steady and has never stalled after the PCV installation. Still on the map listed here. If you are thinking about chucking your TR650, do this first and you will keep it .

 

[danketchpel]

I have a question for you guys running the PC5 + Autotune.
I'm running this setup and have a pretty good AFR table worked out and the bike is running very well overall. But... I'm having a bit of a time finding just the right settings for cold start. For some reason I can't nail this one down to be right. I have little trouble with hot start regardless of the settings I use.

I've tried it with several settings in the startup fuel config ranging from adding fuel -5% to +20% and run time 15 - 20 seconds, plus just turning the feature off.

If any of you have found a sweet setup for cold start let me know. I've talked to Mathew at Dynojet a couple times and it's kinda down to trial and error at this point. It's tough as you only get a few shots at it per day.

My current bike setup has Screaming Demon pipes with the quiet baffles and the POD Mod. I still have the evap canister but it's coming off soon to make room for a 2nd radiator fan.

Other than cold start the bike runs awesome.

 

[Greg Jetnikoff]

Here is one for you.
I put a PCV on my Strada. NO autotune just the PCV. The instructions get you to remove the "O2" sensor and NOTHING is connected to the ECU from the sensor wires. NOTHING. There is no error on the dashboard saying that there is no sensor and no wire goes to the PCV to spoof it. ??????????? My BMW had a wire that went to the PCV from the sensor but this has nothing. It's as if it doesn't care there isn't a sensor attached. Has anyone tried unpluging it and running the bike ( someone without the a PCV) and see what happens. It doesn't make sense there should be an error unless it doesn't check to see if there is a signal and if there is, use it to mod the EFI output.
The bike is now running way better. Starts every time no hesitation. Runs as smooth as silk ( yes I mean smoother that stock) . Power is nothing to write home about. A little extra maybe but not noticeable. I have gone back to a quieter more restrictive single exhaust though.

 

[danketchpel]

Here is one for you.
I put a PCV on my Strada. NO autotune just the PCV.

The bike is now running way better. Starts every time no hesitation. Runs as smooth as silk ( yes I mean smoother that stock) . Power is nothing to write home about. A little extra maybe but not noticeable. I have gone back to a quieter more restrictive single exhaust though.

Thanks for the feedback.

So, you have the PC5 alone (no Autotune) with nothing connected to the original ECU O2 input connector. Understood, can you post a screen shot of the fuel map you're using?

I've tried the base map Dynojet offers, plus a couple other's posted here. I've also tried unplugging my Autotune and running just the PC5 alone, no change in starting for me. That's why I'm beginning to suspect something else may be askew with my setup. I have nothing plugged into the original ECU O2 input connector.

One thing I'm going to go back and try, I've removed the stock airfilter door/cartridge entirely leaving a much larger airbox opening. I want to put the door back in and see if it affects the start up.

I'm running the Screaming Demon twin pipes with the quiet baffles in them, another change from stock.

 

[SpittingCobra]

Danketchpel, What temperature do you call cold start?
Like Greg, I'm running PC5 alone with stock fuel map and have no issues with starting, but at the moment our temperatures are no less than 18deg and even mid winter maybe 12deg. I don't touch the throttle, just press the starter and let it idle while donning helmet, etc.
Have you checked sparkplugs as a large gap can be a definite cause of difficult starting. Also in Australia we don't have Evap cans.

 

[danketchpel]

Danketchpel, What temperature do you call cold start?
Like Greg, I'm running PC5 alone with stock fuel map and have no issues with starting, but at the moment our temperatures are no less than 18deg and even mid winter maybe 12deg. I don't touch the throttle, just press the starter and let it idle while donning helmet, etc.
Have you checked sparkplugs as a large gap can be a definite cause of difficult starting. Also in Australia we don't have Evap cans.

My temps here in Southern California are about the same as your's. So not REALLY cold start like those guys in the snow belt, ugh....

I haven't pulled the plugs yet since the bike only has ~1,900 miles on it. I have a set of Iridium plugs on order. I recently pulled off the Evap stuff to make room for my 2nd fan.

Today it started pretty decent, but still not quite as you describe. I'll see how it goes this week.

Thanks for the feedback.

 

[danketchpel]

@Ian,

I used the supplied posi-tap and connected it to the tail light (to get key-on power) If i remember, it's the green/white one. I ran a lead to the negative side of the battery for ground.

This is correct, for the tail light, the green/white wire is hot and the brown wire is ground.

 

[hasenpfeffer]

Let me preface this with, I am not an expert, and am only trying to brainstorm ideas. People mention a lot about how valves can cause poor starting. Have you considered checking them? At only 1900 miles, I would be hard pressed to think this would be a problem, but keep in mind that I checked my valves at 800 miles (yes, 800), and one set was at or below spec. This fact, combined with the wide variability seen with these bikes could potentially make is possible your valves are out of spec.

 

[danketchpel]

Let me preface this with, I am not an expert, and am only trying to brainstorm ideas. People mention a lot about how valves can cause poor starting. Have you considered checking them? At only 1900 miles, I would be hard pressed to think this would be a problem, but keep in mind that I checked my valves at 800 miles (yes, 800), and one set was at or below spec. This fact, combined with the wide variability seen with these bikes could potentially make is possible your valves are out of spec.

The thought has definitely crossed my mind.

While most have reported their valves are in spec., mine could be one of few that could be just enough out to cause some starting trouble.

I don't relish the thought of tearing half the bike apart to find out but...... it might come down to that. It does start very quickly and reliably when hot so .....??? Not sure, I'll see how things develop. It might be easier to take a compression check first.