• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

All 2st Power #'s from a dyno run?

HRC 630

I guess what I am asking is EEl as crisp or better than the CEL from idle to the midrange . On the graph it looks softer then comes on in the midrange. Iam no expert just the way it looked to me if I am seeing the lines right, kind of hard to see what line is what. Just looking for your .02
 
Slowpoke;96963 said:
2 strokes usually just feel faster than many 4t's, when in reality they often aren't. It's all in how they deliver the power that makes them feel faster.

Ktm 200's feel way faster than my 07 TE 250(which feels kinda slow when you ride it), but it's usually a dead heat or within a bike length either way to about 65 mph or so (I've raced several late model 200's, both the XC and XCW)
125's & 144's feel fast also, but they don't even stand a chance in a flat out drag against my TE, even though my bike is 50# heavier.
Click to expand...

I agree with the first part about feeling but I have found my 08 125 at least as quick as an 08 TE apart from top end 50 + MPH where the 250 pulls away
A 144 would be line ball id reckon. I also think from a standing start id win . I will line one up this weekend
 
rockdancer;97077 said:
I agree with the first part about feeling but I have found my 08 125 at least as quick as an 08 TE apart from top end 50 + MPH where the 250 pulls away
A 144 would be line ball id reckon. I also think from a standing start id win . I will line one up this weekend
Click to expand...

I must have an odd 250F, cause I've surprised a lot of folks racing with it, or the 08 TE's are slower????
 
TROFFER88;97032 said:
HRC 630

I guess what I am asking is EEl as crisp or better than the CEL from idle to the midrange . On the graph it looks softer then comes on in the midrange. Iam no expert just the way it looked to me if I am seeing the lines right, kind of hard to see what line is what. Just looking for your .02
Click to expand...

For me, the CEL feel better on low. This is the best needle for me right now. Pull good everywhere. In the next week, i will be trying some other needle and post the result. Also, i want to try a JD red to see the difference. I return on the dyno in 2 weeks.
 
rockdancer;97077 said:
I agree with the first part about feeling but I have found my 08 125 at least as quick as an 08 TE apart from top end 50 + MPH where the 250 pulls away
A 144 would be line ball id reckon. I also think from a standing start id win . I will line one up this weekend
Click to expand...

I have a 09 144 and a 2010 tc250, no way the 144 can hold a tc250. It's not close in my opinion. The TE can't be that far off.
 
I wouldnt even waste the dyno time with the JD red , my bike didnt like it after the head mod and carb divider plate . I messsured it and it looks close to a CEQ
 
TROFFER88;97245 said:
I wouldnt even waste the dyno time with the JD red , my bike didnt like it after the head mod and carb divider plate . I messsured it and it looks close to a CEQ
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info.
I dont have to pay for dyno testing so its not a problem to pass some time on it :cool: Next, i will try the EEL and EEM needles + the JD Red if i can find one.

For now, i have a big dilema... the owner of the dyno shop (a old 70 years old 2 strokes guru) that have pass is life in snowmobile tuning want to built my engine. (balance the crank, port the cylinder, modify the squish, add a little compression etc...) He tell if i dont like my engine after, he would buy a new cylinder for me. He is sure this motor can make easily more than 60 whp without afecting the reliability or the drivability. He also think i can have even more torque on low.

A few years ago he have built my Banshee engine to over 70 whp on stock bore and the engine was bulletproof...
The problem is my bike is new...and i really like it right now...
 
gestion01;97307 said:
A 60hp 2t in the woods will not be a good setup IMO.

If you lived in Arizona/Nevada maybe.
Click to expand...

This is also what i think. Right now, i have always the power i need (sometime too much power:notworthy:)... It would be funny sometime to have that kind of power for free (he dont charge me) but i dont think its a good idea since my bike is right now praticly perfect and i dont want to take a chance to loose someting i really like.:cool:
 
hrc630;97197 said:
For me, the CEL feel better on low. This is the best needle for me right now. Pull good everywhere. In the next week, i will be trying some other needle and post the result. Also, i want to try a JD red to see the difference. I return on the dyno in 2 weeks.
Click to expand...


After some more testing and dyno tuning, the best result i have is finally with the EEL needle on the 3rd or 4th clip (i need to re-check to make sure). We have work on the head (shave a little and ajust the squish that is way off from the factory on my bike...:excuseme:) The old man on the dyno shop dont beleive it and said that is one of the most inneficient setup he have seen on a stock head. He have make a big smile and tell me that after reajusting the head my bike will never be the same. (this make me a little scary since my bike feel almost perfect for me ****************************************) The new result and power curve was very impressive. 51.9 whp and 33.8 lb of torque and the bike come on sooner :thumbsup:
I will post the sheet when i can.

The bike feel really good and the powerband was very smooth and progressive but pull with an incredible autority. The front wheel goes up in 5th with only opening the throttle.

My jetting with this set-up is:
WR300 2010
Mod: Shaved head, squish ajusted.
Keihin PWK 38
180 main jet
42 pilot jet
Needle EEL in 3-4 clip (i need to check)
#7 slide.
Air screw 1 1/2 turn
 
I agree there is alot of room for improvement.
I had to remove too much from the sealing surface to get my desired squishband angle.
I wound up reducing the width to reduce compression.
It would have been easier to go to a domed piston, the squish angle on the head is closer to a domed piston.

But it did wake up the sleeping giant :eek:
 

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Troy F Collins;96324 said:
Only torque can be measured....horsepower is a calculation...and the dyno does this for us
Click to expand...
inertia dynos actually only measure rpm.

the roller inertia is known, so it is also known how much "work" is needed to accelerate the roller to a certain rpm. you divide that "work" by "time", and then you'll have "power".

r

p.s. bytheway, even when you enter the gearing wrong, the power is always correct, only the rpm and torque are wrong.
 
hrc 630
Thats a great improvement with the head mods . What are they looking for with the squish ? Can you clarify what it is ? What is the optimum ?
 
rockdancer;99735 said:
hrc 630
Thats a great improvement with the head mods . What are they looking for with the squish ? Can you clarify what it is ? What is the optimum ?
Click to expand...

I dont know. I will talk with the owner of the shop that have done my head. Its a lot of work (we have pass at least 5 hours on my engine, including the head, timing, check the power valve operation and carb). I think the best way is to put a GasGas EC300 piston in it. Thats supposed to be a perfect fit.
 
I believe you can measure the squish my squishing some solder on top of the piston as described on another thread. I guess thats the only way to find out but it would be easier if you could just use a thinner gasket - but then you risk not really knowing what the gap is.
I wonder if just trying a thinner head gasket and reducing squish by .2 or .3mm would be risky or not ?
 
rockdancer;99958 said:
I believe you can measure the squish my squishing some solder on top of the piston as described on another thread. I guess thats the only way to find out but it would be easier if you could just use a thinner gasket - but then you risk not really knowing what the gap is.
I wonder if just trying a thinner head gasket and reducing squish by .2 or .3mm would be risky or not ?
Click to expand...

There is no head gasket (just two o-rings) but you can change the thickness of the base gasket. That will change the compression but will also change port timing slightly.
 
The easyer way to increase the compression an to correct the squish is supposed to be a GasGas piston.


Anyone know what is the stock compression in PSI ????
Tomorrow i will take mine to see the difference.
 
stock mine was 135, after squish/head mod it is 155

hrc630;99976 said:
The easyer way to increase the compression an to correct the squish is supposed to be a GasGas piston.


Anyone know what is the stock compression in PSI ????
Tomorrow i will take mine to see the difference.
Click to expand...
 
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